Subject: mandolin question


Greetings Allison,

I recently got a mandolin, and I've got it all tuned up; but I've got a bit of a problem. When I fret the 7th or 10th fret of the D or A strings, the inside string plays a half step above the outer one.

This is more than likely a problem with either the fret being too low exactly at the point being played, or it could mean that the fret one step above it has popped up...you might need a straight edged metal ruler to determine if it is a fret problem...

So I'm playing major seconds, which is not very cool. Is this a problem with my mandolin, or is it a characteristic mandolin thing, or should I move the bridge?

This shouldn't have anything to do with your bridge...especially if the adjoining strings are playing in tune...I'm almost positive this is a fret problem...and is quite common on some cheaper import mandolins. We check for these kind of problems before we ship our import mandolins with a 9-point checklist...and, even after performing this careful set-up process, there's been rare occasion where a fret would pop up during shipping...

I would recommend that you have it repaired by a qualified repair technician...

Mickey

Any help would be great because I'm rather clueless. Thanks, Allison

Folk of the Wood wrote:

Greetings Tavo,
Glad to hear that you finally received your M-11:

Before passing final judgment on this, try the following:
1. Buy some emory cloth and try a very light sanding where the G
strings ride on both the nut and the bridge.

2. Try some new GHS phosphor bronze light gauge...I just changed out an
entire set of Octave Mando strings, with GHS, on a new Morgan Monroe
Octave...and, it went from completely dead sounding to vibrantly
alive...

If neither of the above works, please get back with me...Mickey

Mickey,
Thanks for your prompt response...
The G strings seat nice and clean on the nut and bridge. Also, per Mike at Mid-Mo,
all their mandos ship with new GHS lights. Strange, as the DAE strings all ring
loud and clear. Perhaps I should simply replace the G strings? Can you quick send
me a set? Otherwise, I'm thinking that it may be best to ship the M-11 back to you,
let you guy's have another look, and go from there. Ultimately, as I mentioned some
time ago, if the M-11 turns out to be a poor fit, I will happily settle for the M-4
instead.
Let me know what you think...
Thanks,
Tavo

Greetings Tavo,

I had no idea that Mid-Mos were shipping with GHS strings...evidently, Mid-Mo has good taste in strings.

Personally, I've never encountered a Mid-Mo with a dead pair of G strings...it may still be something as simple as changing the strings. We're at your disposal on anything you'd like to do...and, we certainly are prepared to send you out another set of strings to see if that rectifies the problem. When changing the strings, be sure to lightly sand the areas where the strings seat with emory cloth...this might still make a difference. Mickey

Subject: Sympathetic String Vibrations


Hi thanks for the opportunity to write. Have a ? concerning my mando. Whenever I play a G note on the D string(1st position ) I get an additional tone coming from the adjacent G string. It at sometimes can be very annoying. It is somewhat similar to the wolftones that players sometime get when playing violins.


Greetings,

These are sympathetic vibrations caused by the exact same G wavelengths played an octave higher. This happens on all string instruments to varying degrees. Some instruments are more responsive in the sympathetic range than others...for instance, flat style mandolins with oval holes and a thin matte finish will have more sympathetic vibrations than let's say a mandolin with f soundholes and a thick gloss finish.

Hope this is the answer you're looking for...Mickey

Subject: Re: Kentucky KM-350S Questions
From: Chris Parnell
Hi Mickey-

I got my mandolin on 8/9/01, and I have a few questions.

Because of the hot weather, the instument was very hot when it arrived. It was way out of tune. The sticker on the inside (with model & serial #) had come loose and was floating around. Are there any potential problems to look for that could be due to the heat?

Yes...heat can be detrimental to your instrument in many ways:
Binding, neck problems, glues softening, etc.

The paper can be easily glued back down by applying two spots of elmers and holding it down with a pencil on the eraser side. The paper is good to keep in the instrument for future reference and identification.


When I tuned it using a A440 tuning fork and the 7th fret method, the chords didn't sound quite right. I finally got hold of an electronic tuner, tuned to that, and it sounds great. But the D string 7th fret is markedly off from the A string (overtones about 2 beats/sec.) Is this meaningful? Should I be concerned?

We adjust every mandolin before it leaves our for intonation. There's a possibility that the intonation may have come out of alignment due to the bridge slightly moving...or, the neck may have altered in some way. If this is true, you'll want to adjust for intonation once again. We're working on a video for bridge placement on our website...please stay tuned for it.

Lastly, the action is not too bad, but seems a bit high at the nut. The bridge was lowered all the way, and there were no buzzes, so I wonder if it would benefit from more work, or if I am just being a malcontent.

To adjust action at the nut would require further filing...now, we file every Kentucky mandolin at the nut...so, if it's still high too you, you probably can imagine how high it was before. We do a standard adjustment for action, if you'd like us to adjust the action, we would be more than happy to accommodate you; although, it would require your returning the mandolin to us. We would be more than happy to take care of the shipping costs.

Sorry to be such a complainer, but ordering long distance can have its problems. I ordered from FOTW because I really liked the overall aspect of what you are doing. I guess I just need some reassurance. I was very happy with the service (I talked to Nathan - good kid) and the prices.

Believe me, you have our 100% support for as long as you own the instrument...along with our FOTW Lifetime Warranty outside of the factory 1-year warranty that comes with Kentuckys.
Thanks for keeping faith in us...please call us if you'd us to assist you over the phone on adjusting your bridge:

I've had a flatback mandolin now for a number of years and I think it's probably of east european origin (roundhole - well, more oval actually) and it really isn't terribly easy to fret particularly in
cramped chord positions up the neck. The frets themselves seem to protrude to an
exaggerated degree and are completely flat on top (no rounding at all) and I was wondering
whether this is true of most mandolins or have I been suffering for nothing all these years!
My main playing is rhythm, so chord playing is more important to me than lead work (although
with a more finger friendly instrument I think I might well practice my scales). Would the
reasonably priced Kentucky models be suitable?

As far as the frets go, there usually is an arched peak on all mandolin frets...this contributes to a clear sharp tone...if a fret is too flat or too low, the tone can be slightly muffled and not as clear. With the Kentucky model, as may be true with most mandolins, it will always require some sort of proper set up. Every Kentucky mandolin we've ever received directly from the factory has required intense set up: filing of the nut, sanding on the bridge, placement of bridge for correct intonation, and action adjustment for ease of playability from the nut to the end of the fingerboard. This is a procedure that is standard before we ship out any mandolin...and comes included in the quoted price to you. Name brand would not be specific to set up requirements. For instance, I've seen many high end mandolins that also require intense set up. With the proper set up, a mandolin can be inspiring and fun to play...no matter how costly. This should be the first priority of anyone looking for a mandolin...not the brand, color, or expense...but how will it be set up for playability. Many assume that instruments are ready to play as they arrive from a factory; this is completely the opposite. Mickey

Subject: buzzes in mandolin

HEY MICKEY,
I RECENTLY GOT A KENTUCKY MANDOLIN FROM YA. I LOVE IT!
THERE WAS A BUZZ AT THE HEAD STOCK, AND IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE SCREW TO ONE
TUNER. IS THERE A TRICK TO KEEP IT FROM COMMING OUT WITHOUT CRANKING IT TO
TIGHT? ALSO THERE IS A BUZZ AT THE BRIDGE AT TIMES FROM THE PIECE THAT GOES
OVER THE STRINGS, HOW DO I DEAL WITH THAT? DON ANDERSON

Hello Don,

Sorry it's taken sooo long to get back with you...I'm now getting 200 s or so a day.

I'd be more than happy to assist you with your new Kentucky.

1. on the headstock screw, try putting a drop of glue (super glue) on the threading before tightening...this will ensure that the screw does not come loose...

2. if you ever get a buzz from the tailpiece area, under the tailpiece cover, put a small piece of felt or cloth and then place the tailpiece cover back over it...this will take the buzz completely out of the tailpiece. Many high-end mandolins come with a small piece of felt under the tailpiece cover to prevent future buzz problems...Mickey