Violin/Fiddle: Restringing A Violin or Fiddle Replacing Strings

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 10:59:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Folk of the Wood Contact Form: Violin Restring

Your Name: Matt P.
Subject: Violin Restring
Message: I have recently borrowed a violin from a friend who no longer plays. The violin had no strings and so i bought some and am about to string the instrument. What are the key things to watch out for in order to best achieve a nice set up without breaking strings or damaging the violin? Also as there are no strings currently on the violin how can i restring while placing the bridge?

Thanks for your help in advance and thanks for the great site you have here!

Greetings Matt,

It's best to have someone knowledgeable restring your violin for you (especially if you've never strung up a violin before). For, there are some details to watch out for when restringing a violin.

1. The bridge does need to be properly placed ... usually between the two notches of both f-soundholes. And, it needs to be leaning back just slightly ... the shorter side towards the treble strings.

2. How the strings are wound in the pegs is also critical ... for otherwise they're susceptible to slipping as the string is wound taut. This requires that the strings are tied under, or have sufficient windings on the tuning peg spool (otherwise, the string will constantly slip).

3. If there are any structural flaws in the violin, they can become amplified or even more critical as the tension of the strings are brought up to concert pitch. For instance a crack in the top, that hasn't been properly repaired may spread ... or, a loose glue joint at the heel of the neck could pull the neck forward, and so on.

4. The tailpiece needs to be properly tested to ensure it can withstand all four strings brought up to concert pitch.

So, you can see that having a local violin specialist perform this for you will prevent some serious issues from arising ... and, besides, you can also observe the process and then know how to perform this yourself properly in the future.

Mickey Cochran

Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2005 10:28:34 EST
Subject: Rough Strings

Do my strings need to be replaced because they seem rough. My instructor
recommends that I get the strings replaced because he seems to think that the
finish is gone from the strings. Is there a finish on the strings?

Hey Jerry,

Glad to help...

You certainly want to respect your teacher's recommendations...for your teacher would know if your strings have spent their life.

Yes, strings can become rough over time...I'm not sure if this is the correct adjective though.

Yes, some strings are also coated...

I have scraped the strings with my fingernail to get the buildup of rosin off. Have I ruined my strings?

This shouldn't ruin your strings...however, I can see where it might subtly affect them...it's best to use a damp cloth to remove rosin...

Thanks, Jerry, just a beginner at the age of 67 and I am enjoying it.

Well that's inspiring to hear...sounds like you're only discovering your ultimate destiny of learning to play violin...just a natural course of events for many of us...

Mickey
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Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 11:50:22 -0700
Subject: Comment and Question

Hi Mickey,

First, I just wanted to comment on what a wonderful site you have. It's proven
to be a great resource for me. Keep up the great work.

Thanks for the kind words...

Also, I had a question about violin strings. Specifically, ball-end strings vs.
loop end. I've always used ball-end on my fiddle because that's what it had on
it when I got it, but wanted to experiment with some different strings only
available in loop end. My question is what are the advantages and
disadvantages of each?

The main advantage of using loop-end violin strings, on both violin or fiddle, is the simple fact that these are more traditional than the ball-end...the loop-end is usually always on the E string...which will fit well over a fine tuner...and, loop-ends are standard on mandolin. The ball end strings fit directly through the bridge and are supported by the slot in the bridge. Most all steel violin strings come with ball ends on the G, D and A strings and a loop-end on the E string...

I'm not sure if there are any real advantages or disadvantages between these two types of strings...if they're quality made strings, they both should serve you well...

I'm assuming the loops will simply slide over my fine tuners in the concave area
where the ball currently rests, but am curious how they would be attached to
the tailpiece if I were to remove the fine-tuners for all but the E string . .
. would they just be looped through themselves like you would with a classical
guitar, or ????

Do you have a set of violin strings that are all loop-ends? Again, the only ones I've used have ball ends on all but the E's.

They would have to be looped through themselves to hold...I personally prefer all four fine tuners...which accommodate both ball-end and loop-end strings...

Be sure to get back with me if you find out anything else in your research efforts...Mickey

Thanks in advance, and keep up the great work! I hope to be talking to you soon
about a new instrument as soon as the wife will let me . . .

Mike Curry

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 08:27:08 EDT
Subject: Broken String on New Fiddle

Mickey:

I just bought a new Cremona fiddle for my wife who is interested in learning to play. To my disappointment, a string was broken during shipment (didn't buy from you unfortunately) and another sort of was kinked. Is there any kind of tutorial available about a re-stringing a fiddle and how to properly install and set up the bridge..............I'm a little lost in this department.

Many thanks in advance for your reply.

Anxious to gey my wife fiddlin'

Best

John

Greetings John,

I'm not sure about any tutorials available on changing violin strings...we do have a video instruction tape on installing your own bridge...it's included in a chapter from my video: "Introduction to the Violin and Fiddele"...my suggestion would be to take it in to your local music store to have it restrung...this way you can make sure that it's also set up properly for bridge placement, string action and tuning peg function...you'll want to make sure the Peg Drops are applied to the tuning pegs, or it will not stay in tune...which, of course, can make it quite frustrating to learn on...Mickey

We'll try to get a tutorial up on our website for changing strings and installing a violin bridge...
Please let me know if I can assist you further . . .

Subject: String replacement
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2004 14:20:05 -0500

Quick questions, how do violin repair shops get all 4 violin strings so neatly wrapped? Is there a particular order to replace the strings if replacing a full set? Somehow I always end up replacing an E or A string alone and have difficulty getting the string wrapped evenly without crossing another in the peg box. Thanks, Tina

Greetings Tina,

The best way to learn this process is to have a technician teach you as they replace the strings for you...it would be next to impossible to teach by e-mail...

There is no particular order in which the strings are replaced...a logical order would be to start with the E string...and replace them from the E A D G...while replacing each individual string, keep all other strings taut...to ensure that the bridge stays in place. Be sure to tune each new string up to pitch before replacing another...and, keep in mind, the new strings will go through a stretching period...so, you'll have to retune them as you're replacing other new strings...after installing all new strings, expect them to stretch further and take a few days before they completely settle in...

Mickey

Subject: Restringing the violin
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 16:27:15 -0500

Hi:

Help!! When replacing the old strings does it make any difference which string is put on first? If so, in which order are they strung? Thanks.

Maxine Wood

Greetings Maxine,

You can start from either side...only make sure that you keep all strings taut...as you replace one at a time, tune each new string up to pitch before adding another new string...this should ensure that your bridge stays in place.

New strings will stretch some so do not expect them to stay in tune after installing...you'll want to keep an electronic tuner by your side to ensure that all strings are kept up to pitch throughout the process.

Mickey

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 20:05:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Restringing the Violin

Hello again Mickey

String G, on my violin broke last night, I am not sure if I should loosen the other strings before I restring it. I was told that removing the bridge after it has been set can cause the soundpost to callapse so I am fearful to relieve the pressure of the other strings.

Greetings Ronald,

No, you do not need to loosen the strings before restringing it with another G strings...and, yes, be careful to keep the bridge in its exact place.

In the same respect does the loss of one string unballance the sound post? And should I set all my strings back to center with the fine tuners or is it ok for them stay where they are?

It shouldn't unbalance the post...as long as the other strings are kept taut. No need to mess with your tuners until you string it back up with another G string. After bringing up the tension on the G string, then you might want to center all of your tuners before finalizing the tuning on all strings...

Also until I am able to replace the string should I let the violin rest or is it alright to attempt to play it with the remaining strings?

Yes, do not attempt to play your violin until you have it all properly strung...

Mickey

Thank you for you help.

Sincerely,

Ronald

Subject: Replacing broken strings
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 01:28:29 +0000

Dear Mickey,
I have a question about restringing my violin. I purchased new strings, but compared to the old ones it is very hard to distinguish which string is which (I did not undo them all at once.) Can you tell me according to gauge what sting goes in which place. I have .010, .014, .022, .032. Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Melodie

Greetings Melodie,

Be sure to check out our violin lessons section if you do not have the names of the strings to date:

E .010 Number 1 String on bottom...highest pitch
A .014 Number 2 String above E
D .022 Number 3 String above A
G .032 Number 4 String above D...on top...lowest pitch

Our lessons section reveals the name of the each string and position on the violin through illustrations.

Hope this helps...Mickey

Subject: Re-stringing my broken string
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 15:20:50 -0000

Hi there,

Greetings Sian,

Glad to assist if I can:

I was recently given a much desired violin for Christmas and intend to teach myself, as I have done with the piano and guitar (I was given some odd looks by the assistants that sold us the violin, is it that unusual?) I know its not recommended, but I like a challenge and I find it more rewarding. I do intend to get an instruction video when I am good enough to practice vibrato techniques though. Anyway, while searching on the net I came across your wonderful website, the online lessons were so helpful in giving me some direction on the setting up of the violin, finger positions, how the hold the thing correctly and what the rosin was for. However, when I was trying to tune up my D string, I noticed that it was very weak at the nut and no matter how I tried it would not tune up to the correct pitch, but I carried on practising and was merrily playing away one day when it broke. As I play the guitar I am no stranger to breaking strings and replacing them so I went to the shop to get a replacement string, but inside the packet there is a thing called a bridge cushion, so I thought I should slow down and ask for some advice. Are there any differences between re-stringing a guitar and re-stringing a violin or are they done in much the same way?

Restringing a violin is similar to stringing a guitar with a slotted head...if you'll look at the other violin pegs, and how the strings are wound on each one, you may be able to copy them...be sure that once the string is carefully threaded through the hole, pull it up and around while still leaving slack on the string from the peg to the tailpiece. Now carefully turn the peg until the string begins to tighten...as long as the string doesn't seem to be slipping, you should be ready to tune it up to pitch.

I've looked on the net, but haven't found any other websites that are nearly as helpful as yours, but I did hear that putting some pencil graphite on the notch in the nut helps, is this true?

Sure, however, it's not necessary...I've been playing for a couple of years now and have never once had to apply graphite to the nut...

For the tuning pegs, I would recommend "Peg Drops" to ensure that your wood pegs do not slip on you...now, I use "Peg Drops" approximately every 2 to 3 months...it ensures that my violin stays in tune...and allows for easier tuning.

I also have fine tuners on my violin, will this affect how I string it?

Not necessarily...you only need to carefully observe how the other string loops are placed on the tuners...and simply copy this for your D string you're restringing. Make sure that you center the tuner so that you can raise or lower the pitch with some latitude after tuning the string up to pitch with your wooden peg...

Should I do it myself, of take it into the music shop I bought the violin from? (I don't really want to do this, as I would really like to be able to do it myself, but if it's what you recommend then it's what i'll do!) Please can you help me?

Again, if you carefully copy how your other strings are wound on the wooden pegs, and threaded on the fine tuners, you should have no problem.

If your other strings are not using a bridge cushion, you shouldn't have to use the one that came with your D string...

At your disposal, Mickey

Many thanks and I look forward to your reply.
Sian--