Introduction to Stelling Banjos

STELLING SET-UP SYSTEM

Proper banjo set-up must be done in stages so that repetition of steps
done out of sequence is eliminated. If you follow the below listed
checks, and do adjustments as necessary, going from the truss rod to
the tailpiece setting, you will not have to repeat any adjustments that
may have been thrown off by doing them in the wrong sequence,
ILL

Copyright Sidling Banjo Works 1974

Step #1 - Always start by checking the bow in the neck,

Neck bow is the amount of curvature away from the strings and is necessary to prevent
buzzing due to insufficient string clearance above the frets- Adjustment is made by tightening or
loosening the truss rod nut found under an access cover on the top side of the peghead. Turning the
nut clockwise tightens it and flattens the neck (decreases neck bow). Turning the nut counterclock¬
wise loosens it and increases neck bow. The desired amount of bow is equal to somewhere between
1/64" and 1/32", or about the thickness of a heavy gauge fourth string. This distance is measured
from the top of the 7th fret to a straight line going between the tops of the 1st and 22nd frets.

Step #2 - Checking head tension,

Heads will need tightening on a new banjo more often then on a seasoned one. Because of
seasonal changes, a head on an older banjo may even need to be loosened. Before you adjust your
string height, make sure your head is at the desired tension. Tap-tune it to a pitch somewhere between
a G or a B, depending on whether you like a mellow or a bright tone> then go on to checking your
bridge position.

^

Step #3 - Checking bridge position,

Once you are assured of the truss rod adjustment and head tension being right, you can check
your bridge position and make any necessary adjustments before you check the string height or
action. Try to position your bridge with the strings tuned to pitch as the top of the bridge will move
slightly as you tighten the strings. Be sure to brace the bridge with your fingers across all three feet
if you have to move it forward or backward to the desired distance of 13 3/1611 from the 12th fret,
measured from center of fret to center of bridge. Make sure the bridge is parallel to the frets and
that the feet are flat on the head.

Step #4 -Checking string height

Normal string height, or action, is about 1/8" above the 12th fret and 9/64" above the 22nd
fret as measured from the top of each fret to the center of the strings. To modify string height entails
manipulation of the rim rods which are the two rods traversing the center of the rim. These rods
secure the neck to the rim and must always be snug at the neck end prior to any adjustment at the
opposite end where the 1/2" nuts are. Two holes in the middle of each rod facilitate turning the rods
onto or off of the neck hanger bolts, or enable you to prevent the rods from turning when tightening
or loosening the adjusting nuts. To lower the action, loosen the inner nut on the lower rod and tighten
the outer nut. To raise the action, loosen the outer nut and tighten the inner nut.

Step #5 • Tailpiece adjustment

The Stelling "pivot-pin11 tailpiece can be adjusted up, down, left, right, or in and out simply
by turning the large thumb screw (for up/down adjustments) or the first and fifth string retaining
screws (pivot pins) in or out as necessary (for sideways and in/out adjustments). String tension holds
the tailpiece in position in the drilled holes provided in the tension hoop. Therefore, when the strings
are slackened, the tailpiece falls off. For the same reason, the tailpiece moves up and down
according to head tension. So, if you tighten your head over and over and never adjust the large
thumb screw on the tailpiece, it will eventually end up pressing against the head which will have
a dampening effect on tone and volume. I recommend a slight downward pressure on the strings
or about 1/4" clearance from the head. The pivot pins can be moved in out to alter the tone slightly.
The factory setting is usually quite satisfactory and will not change if left alone.

If you have gone through all the above steps in order, you should now be ready to fine tune
the strings to proper pitch. I have a tuning system that works very well for me as long as I can get
at least the fifth string tuned to a G. Tune all strings as close to pitch by your usual method and then
fine tune all strings to a fretted G as follows: 1st at 5th fret; 2nd at 8th fret; 3rd at 12th fret; 4th at
17th; 5th open. As you change tension on one the others may change slightly. Two or three
sequences usually gets the strings as close to a perfect G as is possible.

Another tip: When changing strings, remove and replace one string at a time. That will min¬
imize bridge movement and keep tension on the neck. The above set-up procedure should be
performed any time your banjo seems out-of-sorts in any way, and at least twice a year during the
change of seasons (from summer to winter and vice-versa).

STANDARD SET-UP CHART

Before any of these adjustments are made, the banjo should be tuned to standard pitch with
your preferred gauge of strings.

1) Neck bow: .028" + or - .006"

2) Head tension: Medium (6 1/2 inch pounds or tuned to an A)

3) Bridge position: 13 3/16" from 12th fret measured center to center and parallel

4) String height: 1/8" above 12th fret; 9/64" above 22nd fret

5) Tailpiece: Parallel to head or under slight tension; 1 5/8'1 to 1 3/411 from bridge

6) Tuning: Standard G

Geoff's Banjo Tips
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Bridge and Nut Problems

It's been about ten years since I discussed in detail in BNL the wear and repair of banjo string nuts, so I'll mention a few possible problems and remedies. The nut spaces the strings apart at the neck end of a banjo and holds them off the fingerboard just high enough so that they don't rest on the frets. The bridge does the same thing at the head or tail end of the banjo. It goes without saying that a misplaced bridge or nut will have grave consequences on the tuning and playability. The condition of either will also greatly affect quality of tone and playability. Replacing or repositioning the bridge is infinitely easier to do than replacing or repositioning the nut inasmuch as the nut is glued into a slot and the bridge merely stands on the head and is held only by string tension.

The common problems with a bridge are:
1) Being out of position
2) sagging
3) breaking or chipping
4) being the wrong size or weight.
These are all easily corrected. Other than being out of position, all other problems are solved by replacing the bridge. The common nut problems are: 1) The slots being cut too deep, 2) the slots are worn down, 3) the slots are too narrow, 4) the nut is too short, or 5) the nut is out of position. For all but #3, the nut should be replaced by a competent luthier or repairperson. In general, if a banjo needs a fret job, the nut is probably going to need some attention, also. If the banjo buzzes in the open position and the strings are not hitting the frets, they are probably rattling around in a worn nut slot. Sometimes it is the bridge slot. If the buzz or rattle stops if the string is capoed or fretted, it's the nut. If it keeps buzzing, it is either the frets or the bridge. My original premise assumes that the neck is adjusted correctly for bow and that none of these buzzes are the result of a flat or back-bowed neck. If it is indeed a worn nut, it may be possible to reslot it if it was not cut too deeply in the first place. To test, hold down a string at the second fret and see if there is any clearance between that string and the first fret. If there is any left, the nut can be touched-up with a jeweler's saw or file. If not, the nut needs replacing or repair work. If the slots are too narrow and the strings are binding - squeaking during tuning, try lubricating the slots with oil, graphite, or Glyde-Cote (our polish), or file them a bit wider and then lubricate.

An excessively short nut allows only a portion of the string to go into a short slot. If the string slips out because of this, a new nut is needed. An improperly positioned nut will make it impossible to play the banjo in tune no matter where the bridge is. This is rare and would be a warranty problem. Hope these comments help you resolve any annoying buzzes you may have.

Good picking.

Geoff Stelling
MAINTENANCE TIPS: Keeping that new banjo looking like new involves polishing the nickel-
plated metal parts with SIMICHROME POLISH It's available in 50 gram tubes for $7. The finished
wood should be kept like new with Glyde-Cote,4 oz. bottle for $8. Priority mail is $3.20.

A more complete and illustrated Field Service Manual is available from Stelling Banjo Works, Ltd. for $4,00
postage paid in USA ($5.00 overseas). Good picking and thanks for buying a Stelling!

Stelling Banjo Works, Ltd»
7258 Banjo Lane, Afton, VA 22920