Stelling vs. Gibson
Subject: The Pre-War Sound: Gibson vs. Stelling Mickey: Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 16:49:42 -0700 Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2002 22:02:50 -0600 Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 01:37:49 -0600
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 08:05:34 -0500
I've recently played three or four models of Gibson banjos at the Oklahoma International Bluegrass Festival. I was struck by the sweet, pre-war sound present (in varying degrees) in each model. My Ome Gold Monarch is much brighter, brassier in tone, with only a fraction of that pre-war quality. My question: in general, how do Stelling banjos sound? I know they are crisp and have a crack to them. How about that sweet pre-war sound?
Mark Gibson
Greetings Mark,
I personally love the Stelling sound and its very own exponents such as Alan Munde...however, it is different. It's not at all like the sound of a Gibson (and, I don't believe that's what Stelling is striving for...they are uiquely crafted and stand on their own without comparison)...the Gibson models seem to have a bassier sound...and, yes, all seem to be more contributory to having an Earl Scruggs tone. The Stelling is one of the loudest banjos being made today. Stelling has their own patent on a wedge-fitted tone ring which seems to be contributory to their unique tonal quality. The Stelling does work well within most any style of music you'd want to pursue...finding a pre-war sound can be quite elusive in other makes besides Gibson (Gibson's sole goal is to recreate the Pre-War Granada by going as far as imitating the very same alloys originally used). Gibson is striving for the pre-war sound in the alloys, design (which hasn't changed much since the pre-war models), configuration, and tone ring...Stelling is following their own path and introducing their own innovations...which sets them completely apart from any other make today.
Now, there's a possibility you could adjust the set-up on a Stelling and achieve a closer sound to the pre-war Gibson...for instance, loosening the head and tailpiece will contribute to more bass on most banjos...including the Stelling...you might try this with your Ome.
Wishing you the best in your research efforts, Mickey
Subject: Width at the nut
Hello Mickey
what is the difference in width at the nut between Stelling and Gibson? I'm saving my pennies to buy a new instrument and that would help me make my decision.
Thanks much
Terry
Greetings Terry,
The width of the nut for both banjos follows:
1. Stelling: 1 1/4" width at the nut
2. Gibson: 1 3/16" width at the nut (it appears to be just a hair over this) On my electronic calipers it measures in at 1.216"...
Hope this helps...Mickey
Subject: Gibson banjo
Hi Mickey; I've been playing a stelling golden cross since 1979 and now am considering a new gibson for a tonal change. You have mentioned the tonal differences among the Gibson models and I wonder if you would expand on this. I am partial to ebony fingerboards (ebonol on the stelling) but the wreath pattern seems nicest to me. I am leaning toward the RB-3 at present But the EG models are possible also Maybe even the style 5. Help!
Greetings,
Glad to assist if I can:
I love the Stelling sound...it's powerful and has an unbeatable edge. Due to their patented wedge fitted tone ring, they have a unique tonal quality that not other banjo can come close to...
Everyone of the new Gibsons, other than their new entry level maple model, I've played have a nice fat sound with the classic Gibson tone. Now, I've heard mixed sentiments about others who have tried out the new Gibsons displayed at other music stores. I believe that if the banjo is not set up right, you're not hearing its optimal tonal performance. This isn't fair to the manufacturer and I've personally seen it on all makes. We get in banjos from manufacturers with loose heads or tailpieces riding higher than the bridge, or keep in mind, strings can also be dead and lose their brilliance...
Outside of all of these variables, Gibson is producing a top quality banjo today...albeit, an expensive banjo to say the least. Gibson is also producing a low-end maple model for the entry level market...
There are some differences between Gibson models based on choice of woods, or different fitted rings (such as offered by the RB-75 which is a few ounces lighter), or model attributes based on alloys of metal, etc.
As far as the Style 5 Wreath goes, I cannot give you my opinion since I haven't played one to date. I can share with you my experience with walnut woods and even my personal preference for the wreath pattern...As far as walnut woods go: I love the sound and appearance offered by walnut banjos...more in between the crispness of a maple and the warmth of a mahogany banjo...I currently have a Gibson RB-800 that I've played professionally for many years. It's one of the only known RB-800s with the wreath pattern (so I was told by a banjo collector)...the wreath pattern seems to fall natural on a Gibson peghead...mine is nothing short of exquisite both in sound and appearance.
Please shoot me more questions based on any of my above responses...maybe I can assist you further in your research...
Mickey
Subject: Banjo Strings FAQs
Question:
I am a newbee and have a few ?s on strings
I purchased a Deering Goodtime from FOTW and like it alot for my first banjo. The strings that came with it are fine. How long do they last?
Answer:
The strings on your Goodtime should last a couple of months plus...I've seen some players keep their strings for 6 months to a year. On fretted instruments, this isn't recommended since the strings begin to wear at the fret positions...which creates anomalies on the strings that make them not ring as true as when new.
Question:
I am wondering the dif. between light and medium strings? and how do you know which one is which and where they go when its time to change em.
Answer:
Your Goodtime came with Light Gauge strings which is most definitely the standard for all beginners. Light gauge have a brighter tone than medium...medium gauge strings have a fatter sound...even a little bassier (is that a word?)...
When changing strings on your Goodtime, be sure to change them one at a time. This will ensure that your bridge does not move. If the bridge does move, you'll want to readjust for proper intonation. The string packages usually always have designations of the 1st through the 5th...or the gauges themselves...with the gauges, you'll know that the 2 lightest gauge will be for the first and the fifth strings (they're always the exact same gauge)...and the B, G, D are from thin gauge to thick gauge consecutively.
Mickey
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