5-String Banjo 5th String Capo Questions

Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 20:47:19 EST

Hello
     I intend on buying a banjo from folk of the wood. I have always intended on getting HO railroad spikes. It seems like the sliding capo is a good value too, but it only covers the 6th fret to the 10th. This doesn't seem very versatile to me. You could get spikes installed in 9 frets for less than getting a sliding capo which only covers 5 frets. Which do you think is a better deal and why? Which do you reccomend for blugrass? Or is their some kind of trick for playing all keys with 5 frets?

                                               Thanks
                                                 Tyler

Greetings Tyler,

We also have the Shubb capo with the extra long bar (I use this one myself)...and, at the same cost as the short bar....

I still say the Shubb is less intrusive and allows you to fret the fifth string without hitting a nail with the tips of your fingers...and, you really do not want to slide your finger up with HO spikes in the way...additionally, you do not usually have to retune with the Shubb...for bluegrass, either one will work well...most bluegrass songs fall within the A to Bb range...so the short bar does work fine...even so, it's nice to have the longer bar to experiment with...Mickey

Subject: Shubb 5th String Capo
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 23:04:42 -0800

Is it recommended to install this capo on a Deering Goodtime banjo? Thanks.

Joe Andrulaitis

Greetings Joe,

This can be easily accomplished and does add a new dimension of capability to the Goodtime.

The 5th string capo will allow the player to play in a variety of keys without being limited to open g...yes, you can play in other keys without a capo, however, you will then be playing in closed positions taking away the droning character of the 5-string. The nicest thing about 5-string capos is the ability to play the very same patterns, or song, you learned in the open g tuning, in other keys...which makes for easier jamming with others and adds new character to old songs worn out in g tuning.

Hope this helps, Mickey

Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2003 20:43:25 -0600

which is better for a banjo the railroad spikes to capo the fifth string or the shubb capo fifth string capo? thank you.

Greetings,

Here's a complete breakdown of the differences betweent these two capos:
http://www.folkofthewood.com/page732.htm

1. 5th String Shubb Sliding Rail Capo

Increases the versatility of your banjo and the capability to change keys. Increases the Value of your Banjo.

The Shubb is a professional 5th string capo system that allows you to change keys quickly and efficiently. I use one myself and have for 20+ years. What I like about the Shubb 5th String Capo:

Pros:
1. It only takes one hand to change keys, so you'll have to capability to change your 5th string drone even in the middle of a song.
2. It covers every fret from the 6th all the way up to the end of the rail at the key of C.
3. Because of the tension screw, you can change keys without having to retune.
4. It's fast and efficient.
5. It enhances the look of a banjo (in my opinion).
6. Allows for both fretting and sliding on the 5th string.

Cons:
1. It may get in the way of some players who play with their thumb residing on the top of the neck.
2. If you fret with your thumb, it may get in the way.

1. 5th String HO Railroad Spikes Installed

Increases the versatility of your banjo and the capability to change keys.

The 5-String Banjo is always tuned to an open tuning. Commonly, and for bluegrass playing, the tuning is GDGBD. This means that when you strum it open, you have a G Chord. After learning a roll pattern, in combination with a melody such as "Old Joe Clark", you'll more than likely have down pat a tune in the key of G. Now, if you end up in a jam session, you may encounter a problem if any fiddlers or mandolinists are around. Most every fiddler/mandolinist knows "Old Joe Clark" in the key of A, not G. The combination roll pattern and melody you've learned in G will no longer apply. Now, if you have HO RR Spikes as a 5th String Capo, along with a regular banjo capo, you only need to move your 5th string under the RR Spike, and place your regular capo on the second fret of your banjo. You will now be in the key of A, and you'll be ready to play "Old Joe Clark" using the same roll/melody pattern you've already learned. The capo will also add a completely different flavor to old worn out tunes that you've been playing and have learned in open position G.

Pros:
1. Does not usually get in the way of fretting your 5th string...
2. Allows you to play with your thumb over the neck.
3. Many traditional banjo players have used these over the years including Earl Scruggs himself.

Cons:
1. Requires retuning since the string is pulled down slightly (usually the 5th string goes slightly sharp).
2. Does not allow sliding on the 5th String when fretting.

Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 14:40:16 -0500

Do you put in the spikes or is it done at the factory?

We install the HO Spikes as an option on most of our banjos; currently, we charge 6.00 each...Stelling is the only banjo company I know of that has them preinstalled...this is normally a custom option requested by the customer. Some customers, as I myself do, prefer the Shubb 5th String Capo. For more info on 5th String Capos, be sure to check out:

http://www.folkofthewood.com/page732.htm

your web site is the best for someone who knew nothing to start with.

Thanks for the kind words...Mickey

Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 00:07:26 EDT

Greetings Paul,

And when a song is in a key other than g, are the strings on the banjo supposed to be set to different notes or use a capo. paul lauber, md

In the open G tuning, standard on a 5-string banjo, you can play many other keys without using a capo. For instance, you can play in C by playing out of the open C chord position on the first and second frets. The drone G becomes the 5th tone scale and can still be played in a roll context. Some keys, such as E, would require that you retune your 5th string to fit the harmonic structure. In the key of E, while playing an E chord on the first two frets, the 5th string would need to be tuned up to G# to harmonize with the E chord. You could also use a 5th string capo instead of having to take a chance of bringing the high G up...

A full capo, along with a 5th string capo, makes it far easier to change keys on a 5-string...the main advantage is that you can use the same patterns you learned in the open G position...

Hope the above helps...let us know if you have further questions...Mickey

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:30:21 -0600

Also, do you guys happen to stock the wierd 9/32" T-wrench for the GoodTime
II? If so, I need one of those. If not, I can get it direct from Deering.

I know you are a proponent of the Shubb 5th string capo... are they easy to
install (I'm pretty handy)?

Thanks
Michael

Greetings Michael,

Yes, we do stock the 9/32" Key for the Goodtime...I'll have to check if we have one in stock. If we do, we'll throw one in for you.

The 5th String Capo is unruly to install. It's not a cut and dry process...it requires just the right distance from the edge of the neck...and, it can become unmanageable to hold down while mounting. After installing hundreds of these (no exaggeration here), we have a sure system. I wouldn't recommend trying this on your own.

Mickey

Subject: Deering Goodtime Banjo Capo Question
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 19:52:52 -0800

Hi,

I'm interested in buying a beginning level open-backed banjo and it
seems from all the good input on your site that the Deering Goodtime
1 is the best choice for under $400. I have a question regarding it
that I was hoping you could answer (I can't find this answer
ANYWHERE on the web). Deering advertises that the banjo is to be
tuned gDGBD but I wish to play old time/clawhammer stuff in aEAC#E
or aDADE tunings. Can the Goodtime handle tuning up a whole step to
the more traditional clawhammer tunings (especially since the neck
apparently doesn't have a truss rod)?

Thanks in advance for any response!

Sincerely,

Pat Byrne

Greetings Pat,

This is a valid question...because the Goodtime is built from solid
maple woods, which is one of the strongest and densest woods you'll
find, I tend to believe that it shouldn't pose a problem. Even so, my
recommendation would be to use these same tunings, only use a capo at
the second fret to ensure no stress whatsoever. To do this, you only
need a banjo capo and a 5th string capo...for a further description
on 5th string capos check out our Shubb capo info on our webstie.

to tune to the aEAC#E tuning: have your banjo tuned to the open G
tuning (gDGBD) first...then, apply a capo at the second fret and use
a 5th string capo accordingly on the second fret also...This will now
put the banjo in the aEAC#E tuning....

to tune to the aDADE tuning: have your banjo tuned to the open G
tuning (gDGBD) then, apply a capo at the second fret and use a 5th
string capo accordingly on the second fret of the 5th string...now
simply tune down the fourth string to D and tune up the second "B"
string to "D"...you will then be in the aDADE tuning.

Both of the above approaches is far easier than tuning without the
use of the capo...and, the added benenfit is there's no added stress
to the neck and you'll also save yourself on replacing strings too
often...

Hope the above helps...Mickey

Subject: Re: Longneck Shopping
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 13:44:29 -0500

I've always used RR spikes for by clawhammer banjo, but is the Shubb a more common feature on openbacks. Right now the spikes I have in do not hold the strings very well for heavy frailing. Recommendation.

Thanks
Steve

Greetings Steve,

The more common 5th string capo I've seen on open-backs are the HO spikes...even so, I personally love the looks and functionality of the Shubb far over the HO spikes. If you're playing with your thumb riding on top of the neck, you'll want the HO spikes. If you like being able to switch keys quickly, without re-tuning, you'll love the Shubb capo. For heavy frailing, the Shubb will work far more efficiently.

Hope this info assists you in some way...

Mickey

Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 00:42:36 EDT
Subject: Questions on a new Banjo.

Hello,

5th String Capo installs? Recommended for a beginner or more of something to do down
the road? Shawn

I would recommend having the 5th string capo installed before the banjo ships...this way, you won't have to find a technician at a later date...far more convenient to have the banjo completely outfitted beforehand. Additionally, when I first started out, it was fun to learn a tune in the open G position (non-capoed) and then to capo up to A just for added variation...once the tune is learned in the open G position, you'll only be repeating the exact tune 2 frets up after capoing 2 frets up. Minimizes the G drone and makes the tune sound completely different. Mickey

From: "ANDREW PALMER"
Subject: capo, 6-11 or 7-12?
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 17:42:01 +0100

Hi Mickey or Bryan,

I'm about to have a 5th string capo fitted to my banjo. The chap has asked me ' What frets do you want it to cover? 6-11 or 7-12? '

I suppose, if you cover 7-12, you'll be able to play in G(5), A(7), B(9), C(10), and D(12) but not in G#(6) unless you tune up that extra semitone.

If you cover 6-11, you'll only be able to play G(5), A(7), B(9), and C(10). As C#(11) probably isn't much good to you in a jamming session is it? If you want a high D(12), you can always tighten the string by a fret.

I'm not sure without seeing the capo and how it works whether it's feasible to be able to capo from A to D and so I can't really decide without asking an expert.

Another factor is that the sliding apparatus does have to sit somewhere when not in use, and it's more out of the way sitting over fret 6 than fret 7.

I really value your opinions on this guys - what do you think?

Thanks alot for your time
Regards
Andy Palmer. England.

--

Greetings Andy,

Go with the 7-12...you'll find the D capo position lots of fun to experiment in...adds a nice high contrast over a band setting. Additionally, keep in mind, Shubb does make a long-bar 5th string capo that will cover from the 6th fret all the way to the E position...this is the capo I personally have installed on both of my main banjos...the Deering Maple Blossom and the Gibson RB-800.

I find the stationary position of the tension screw over the 6th fret less obtrusive...but even over the 7th fret, it's, for the most part out of the way. The only reason it would ever be in the way is if you rest your fretting hand thumb on top of the neck instead of behind the neck. Again, with the Shubb long-bar capo, the tension screw will rest over the 6th position.

Hope this helps...Mickey