Violin Fiddle Set-Up Questions about setting up a Violin or Fiddle

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 16:24:34 -0500
Thread-Topic: Beginning Violin

I bought a violin for my wife, but neither of us have any clue how to set it up, or play it, or anything! She's always liked violins so I figured I'd get one and hope she could learn how to play it. Right now we're afraid to even touch it because the strings aren't set up, and everything is in pieces as it came in a kit with a case. It's a beginner set, adult sized. What's the first thing we should do to get started on playing it? How do you play it? I guess we just need some instruction on proper care, handling, form, and playing. Please help me in any way you can, even if you have to refer me to another website or person, I'd greatly appreciate it. E-mail me back at anytime. Thank you.

-Chris

Chris,

You really do not want to attempt to set it up yourself...you'll want to get in contact with whom you purchased it through or find a local music store that can assist you...there are small things to consider, that if not performed correctly during the set-up, can cause uncalled for frustration...such as adding peg drops on the tuning pegs to prevent slippage...or leaning the bridge slightly back for better string support...or making sure that the strings are wound on the pegs properly to prevent further slipping...or making sure the fine tuners are properly fitted and adjusted...the list goes on and on...hence, it's best to first have your violin set up by someone knowledgeable...

Once you do have it properly set up, you might consider a personal instructor or at the very least a video as a guideline through the learning process. Be sure to also check out our online lessons...

Best of luck to you and your wife on this newfound learning journey...if you approach it with the suggestions I've listed out above, you will enjoy the process...Mickey

Subject: Sring height
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 10:58:36 -0500

Hi,
I am an aspiring Violinist who happens to play guitar and mandolin. As far as set up on a violin: How high should the strings be from the fingerboard.(At the top and bottom of it). I looked all over your site and unfortunately couldn't find a reference to this.

Hi,

We're glad to assist:

String height on violin is relative only to the tastes of the artist...some soloists prefer higher actions while others prefer extremely low...my suggestion would be to have it relatively low as a beginning violinist...and, after playing for a period of time, adjust it to your own style and approach...

Thank you for any assistance and perhaps you could tell me where in your site to look for other things of interest along this line. What is the difference between a violin and a fiddle?

We have many Questions and Answers related to the differences between violin and fiddle at the following URL: http://www.folkofthewood.com/page2614.htm

I assume it is more the style of play. Aren't they the same instrument?

They are one and the same...a violin is a fiddle and vice versa...it's the approach that classifies the instrument...for instance, if someone is playing a hoedown you would address it as: Hey, that fiddler is playing a hoedown on his fiddle! The counterpart would be: Hey, that violinist is playing an Opus on his violin!

Now, some fiddlers will set up their fiddle with a flattened bridge so that they can more easily play double-stops (a double-stop is a two-string chordal approach where the bow simultaneously plays two strings)...

Hope this helps...Mickey

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 17:48:58 EST

micky i saw your site on bridge placement fotr the fiddle is there a way you can intonate the bridge the way you would a guitar to be sure its set in the correct place ive played guitar for 40 years but am just statring to learn the fiddle. . . thank you for any information on this . Bill Thomas

Greetings Bill,

Intonation is not an issue on a violin...unless there are deformities in the fingerboard. Since a violin does not have frets, you can pretty well set the bridge approximately and, as long as the fingerboard is properly set without anomalies, still be able to correctly hit the pitches all the way up the neck.

The notches in the f-holes are the position marks for the violin bridge to fall between. The lower side of the bridge should be on the treble side, and the bridge should lean just slightly back after being properly fitted.

Please stay tuned for our violin bridge set-up tutorial soon to be posted on our website.

Hope the above helps...Mickey

Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 13:40:13 -0400

Dear Mr. Cochran:
Your site is wonderful! I just received a new violin today, and am looking forward to learning a great deal from you! My problem is that there are no grooves on the bridge that came with my new violin. I have set it up, but am wondering if the strings will space themselves correctly on their own, and remain in the correct position during use...or is it necessary to have the strings in grooves to play to the best advantage?

Thanks for your help! I look forward to hearing from you!
Lynn

Greetings Lynn,

Most violin bridges do have some type of grooves to keep the strings in place...additionally, the grooves will serve the purpose of spacing the strings properly. I wouldn't recommend that you try to file the grooves yourself. It may be best to have a violin instructor, or a set-up person, ensure that you do have your violin properly readied for your learning endeavors.

Make sure that your bridge is situated exacty between the notches on the f soundholes of the top...the bridge should be leaning back slightly towards the tailpiece...the strings should be low enough to the fingerboard for ease of playability. You might also consider investing in some "Peg Drops" so that you can prevent your wooden tuning pegs from slipping after tuning your violin up to pitch. This is the most common problem when first trying out a new violin...we do all of the above before we ship out any violin...

Hope this helps...Mickey

Subject: sound post setting
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 15:42:51 -0700

Hi!
I'm an old-time fiddler in the Shenendoah valley.
and I was wondering...
It seems that a number of fiddles pass
through my hands with the question "can
you set my sound post right?
The answer is inevetibly "I can
set it, but it might not be exactly right".
Any advice on finding the right spot ?
I know (from experience) that each
instrument wants minor adjustments.
I usually keep moving it until I think it
sounds good, but there must be a
surer method.
Are there measurements I can use?
Any advice would be great for me
and my fiddling friends.
Jim Scott
Harrisonburg Va

Greetings Jim,

As you're aware, we're an acoustic specialty shop that focuses on violins/fiddles, banjos, mandos, and dobros...we've done our share of soundpost installations. We're of the opinion that every violin is different and therefore would have a completely different "sweet spot"...

We believe you're on the right track in adjusting the soundpost until you feel the instrument responds well...Every piece of wood has its very own fingerprint...I could not imagine that there will ever be a science to mounting a soundpost...I believe it to be an art that requires someone with an attuned ear.

Evidently, you've already come to the same conclusion.

At your disposal, Mickey

ate: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 16:14:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Violin Questions & Price Request

Mickey,

I'm looking for a good 4/4 violin for a beginner for under $350. What do
you recommend?
If I purchase a violin from you, how much would it cost to have your shop
make sure it is set up correctly and ready to play?

Also, I notice some of the violins shown on your site come with 4 fine
tuners, while others, usually the more expensive ones, come with one. Why
is that? It seems to me that 4 fine tuners would be an advantage.
Thanks for you help. Sincerely, Tom Boelens

Greetings Tom,

The best value I know of, with the highest end features for the price, would be the Cremona SV-200 (at 225.00 discounted). Another tremendous value, if you're looking to spend the full 350.00, and want a substantial upgrade from the SV-200, you try the Cervini HV-200.

Most high-end violins sell with 1 tuner...most every high level classical soloist uses one fine tuner instead of 4. Apparently, for an accomplished violinist, the 4 fine tuners are unnecessary...only the high-end E string, with its thinner gauge, requires a fine tuner...

Personally, I find it far more convenient to have all 4 fine tuners. I've used violins with and without tuners, and have had no problem with either, but I certainly find it easier, and more accurate, to fine tune a violin with 4 tuners.

Hope this helps...Mickey

Subject: strange fiddle vibrato/mute
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 8:45:31 -0400

Mickey--I'm a fiddler from Madison, WI. I was teaching at Spruce Tree Music
today when Will and Julie (the proprietors) found a strange little
contraption in an old fiddle case. It slips over the bridge (just over one
string), is made of metal, and has about a 3" tongue made of spring steel
with a little steel ball (about 1/2" diameter or less) on the end. When
placed on the bridge and set in motion it produces a really cool muted
vibrato or almost a flanger effect (kind of like a Leslie rotating speaker).
Have you ever seen anything like this before--are they commercially
available? My wife and I do alot of strings session work and are always on
the lookout for whacky ways to produce different sounds from our analog
instruments.

Thanks! --Chris Wagoner / Studio Strings http://www.studiostrings.com

--

Greetings Chris,

Sorry, I've never heard on one personally...you might check with Stan
at www.elderly.com He's very knowledgeable about these
things...another one that may be aware of these is a good friend of
mine: Steve Perry...I'm forwarding your request to him now.

good luck with your future research efforts...Mickey

Chris,

I saw one of these a while back, but have never seen one listed in a catalog or for sale. Perhaps they would be worth remanufacturing. There's probably a patent number on the product, so if you see one again, write it down and I can pull the patent to get the design information. It has most likely expired, meaning it can be produced without any royalty. Interesting to hear that they work!

Steve Perry for Folk of the Wood