Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 13:02:40 EST
Subject: Hello Mickey

Hi,
     I am beginning to play banjo. I have a cheap Bestler resonator that I won on Ebay. I am planning on upgrading soon. I hate buying instruments when I can't play them first but that is my only option since no one around here carries the brand I am pursuing. So, I think your an honest, reasonable man and I will trust you. Give me your personal review on the Johnson JB-200 tone ring banjo. I play 3 finger bluegrass. Tell me if there are buzzes in the strings (a BIG mistake I made in buying my Bestler), cheap finish, how the tone and projection is, and stuff like that. I want to make sure I make a good buy so please help.   
Thank you so much, Tyler

Greetings Tyler,

The JB-200 is a fine student level banjo...especially if it's set up correctly...it's a great value in its class...

I suspect your Bestler would be decent to learn on if set up correctly too...you may need to have it properly gone over by a qualified banjo repair technician...guaranteed the buzz can be taken out very easily...the tone and projection can be improved by making sure that the head is properly tightened and that you're using a higher grade string...

Yes, you can step up to other higher end student level banjos...however, you might even do better using what you have until you feel you're ready for a professional level Deering...or an intermediate level Gold Tone...or Morgan Monroe...

Hope this helps...Mickey

Subject: Epiphone (Gibson) Banjo
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 12:52:52 -0800

Hi, I just purchased a Epiphone Banjo, made by Gibson, I guess. I am not sure how to adjust the neck or if it even needs it. I put a straight edge on the neck and there is some space between the frets and straight edge. I am thinking, the neck needs to be adjusted so the neck would be bow the opposite direction so when the strings are tuned the tension would allow the neck to straighten. Any suggestions? I paid $355 plus $40 shipping. Fair price? Thank you , John 

Greetings John,

Keep in mind, it's desirable to have a very slight bow in the neck...this is usually superior than it being perfectly straight...now, to adjust a neck bow, you first use the truss rod adjustment...that is if it's truly a bow that needs adjusting...it sounds like you might want to take it to a local repair technician...to qualify if it really needs adjusting...additionally, keep in mind, the strings on a banjo add very little tension to the neck due to their lighter gauge...hence, you don't need to have the neck back-bowed before bringing the strings back up to pitch...they will more than likely not pull the neck enough to straighten it...unless the neck is poorly reinforced and has no rigidity.

Are you finding it difficult to play? Are the strings too high off of the fingerboard? Did you notice if it's been properly intonated so that when playing up the neck it sounds in tune? These are the questions you'd want to base whether or not you need set-up work on.

In ref to the price: there are a variety of models Epiphone has put out...so, if you want to e-mail the model number/name, and whether you purchased it as new or used, I'd be happy to confirm the current market price for you...

Hope something's been of assistance here...Mickey

Subject: Re: Banjos Gibson vs Gold Tone
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 09:53:49 -0500

Thanks for the information! I have one more question. I have emailed Gold Tone but they haven't answered. Here is the question I sent:
"I purchased a new BG-250. Should the tail piece be tightened down against to top of the rim or should there be a little gap?"
Thanks,
Jeff

Greetings Jeff,

Always make sure there's a little gap between the head and the tailpiece...make sure your banjo head itself is nice and taut...and then, you shouldn't have to tighten your tailpiece too far down...when tightening the banjo head, be sure that you're using a star pattern.

Mickey

Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2003 07:52:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: tap-tuning

Hi. How exactly do I go about tap-tuning my banjo? Thanks. Sepp Huber

Greetings Sepp,

I use my ears as a reference...there are a couple of other ways in G tuning:
1. to tap tune to an approximate G, first tune to open G with an electronic tuner or other reference, then simply tap it until you see and feel the strings are sympathetically vibrating...
2. to tap tune to an approximate A, put a capo on the 2nd fret, tune it to open A tuning, and use the same process watch for the sympathetic vibration....
3. you may also be able to used an electronic tuner...however, it's difficult to descern such the needle will jump all over the place...

I just listen for that right ring myself...which seems to fall around A on my banjo...

At your disposal, Mickey

Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 10:20:50 -0500
Subject: Gold Tone White Ladye head

Hi,

Refering to the photos of the White Ladye on http://www.folkofthewood.com/page451.htm : Is that the "stock" head on the banjo in the photo or is it the GTS skin head?

This is a GTS fiberskyn head...we can order you either the standard Goldtone frosted head or the fiberskyn head at no additional charge. Be sure to specify this when placing your order

Is there quite a difference in tone between the Remo Fibreskin and the GTS head?

I personally cannot tell the difference...although, I'm sure there is a difference...albeit, a subtle difference...they both will tone down a banjo and add a lot of mellowness...I have the fiberskyn on my personal Wildwood Heirloom open-back...it sounds full with lots of low end...I believe that most of this is attributed to the tubaphone tone ring...I'm sure that if it had a frosted head, it wouldn't have the mellowness I'm looking for in an open-back.

at your disposal for further questions,

Mickey


Thanks in advance,
Phil Petrick

Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 23:43:01 -0600
Subject: Banjo Compensated Bridge FAQs

COMPENSATED BRIDGES
------------------------------------------------------------------------

MICKEY,

I'M NEW TO THIS "BANJO THING". I'VE BEEN READING ABOUT COMPENSATED BRIDGES. WHAT'S YOUR FEELING ABOUT THEM? ARE THEY NECESSARY FOR PROPERLY INTONATION?  Buck


Greetings Buck,
I do like compensated bridges and do feel some models really do require them...
A compensated bridge will ensure that you're in tune across the slate. To determine if your banjo would need compensation: After tuning your banjo in the open position (as accurate as would be possible), try the following. Start by playing closed-position chords at the first 5-fret positions...notice that the banjo will sound in tune and confirms that you did tune the banjo accurately. Now the true test. When playing closed-position chords up the neck, from the 7th fret to the 12th fret, you can tell if your banjo does need some type of compensation to correct intonation.

Some banjos, such as the Gold Tone OB-250+ and all of the Stellings address compensation. The Stelling does by adjusting the nut's slot widths; the OB-250+ has a compensated bridge.

The OB-250+ bridge did impress me...it's thin enough to retain the banjo's tone without deadening the tone. Brian Cooper Intonated Custom Bridge: The maple on this bridge is quality select and has aged for at least 100 years… Brian, from Tennesee, sets up many professional Nashville banjos.

Shubb also has a compensated bridge that I used to use years ago...it worked well on my Gibson RB-800 even though it was slightly thick.

Hope this helps.

Mickey

From: Ash Devane
Subject: Tuners
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 13:16:00 -0400

Thanks for the quick reply. That would explain why I couldn't tell the difference between a Golden Era neck and an "Earl Scruggs" model Gibson that I managed to find on my lunch hour. They weren't necessarily objectionable but didn't feel like the other Deerings that I had occasion to play early on, either.
I am not too crazy about the quality(or lack) of the tuners on my Goldtone (I'm  accustomed to Grovers and Schallers on my guitars.) I already understand that the ratios are different by design but I've got too much play between up and down tunings. I have tried adjusting the screw head on the end of the button which merely seems to impact the relatively tightness of the tuner overall. What would you recommend that I retrofit my BG250G with (without unloading a bundle). I would probably want to replace all five, including a pair of "D" tuners in nickel or chrome, just to have a matched set. I put a set of Schallers on an old Yamaha guitar many years ago myself and was fairly pleased. Peghead retrofit doesn't look like rocket science on a banjo but that fifth string tuner has me wondering how easy it might be for me to retrofit. I'm pretty good with my hands and tools though. Made some furniture etc. Ash

Greetings Ash,

The screw on the end of the buttons are strictly for the tension...in other words, if you find your keys are slipping, then you would tighten them...if you over tighten them, you'll find they become difficult to turn...if they are under tightened, they tend to slip. I'm sure you discovered this for yourself.

I would recommend any type of high quality Planetary pegs...for D tuners, you can choose between imported Schallers or the original Keith brand...the Keith brand will most definitely outlast the imported "D" tuners.

Hope this helps...Mickey

Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 03:15:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Fwd: Deering Sierra FAQs
From: Jimmy Powell

Mickey

I have a Deering Sierra and have found your article very
interesting. Although the Sierra sounds good I would like to improve the
bluegrass sound if possible.
First of all, how does the Deering tone rings compare to the Stull
#4, etc?


Greetings James,

I'm not sure how it really compares to the Stull #4...I do know that you can't ask for a better workhorse of a banjo, stock from the factory, as the Deering Sierra.

I have been trying to tune the tone ring and need some help.
Although the Sierra is a well built banjo I was dissappointed to receive
mine with Grotho tunners. I have recently upgraded the tuners to the
Waverly V2's, which are superb. I have added the Snuffy Smith 11/16"
compensated bridge and presently am using J.D. Crow light strings.
Others may be better. Please let me know what strings and guage most
bluegrass pickers use if you know.

Many are using GHS...myself included...even so, the Crow light gauge should be giving you a nice crisp tone...especially in combination with the Snuffy Smith bridge.

Over the weekend I removed the strings and installed the new
tunners. While the strings were off I used my Korg chromatic tuner and
thumped the head and tried to get the head to tune to G. I finally got
it close to G but the tuner shows it to be prodomently tuned to C. Am I
doing this correctly?

There are other ways...such as tapping the head and watching for the sympathetic vibration of the open G strings...of course, you'll want to first tune up the strings to your electronic tuner. There's no right way or wrong way to tap tune the head...trying to tap tune the head to the tuner can be problematic..for instance, tapping closer to the rim may change the pitch...remember to tap closer to the center of the head...

Hope this helps...Mickey