Subject: 5 String Banjo Selection
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 00:07:06 -0500

I have been reading and listening to your site for a few days now and am really considering a banjo purchase very soon. I do not currently play the banjo but I have been playing guitar for some 20 odd years. When friends and relatives purchase guitars they generally come to me to make choices but I have no ideas or notions about banjos.

Greetings Lou,

Glad to assist:

I currently own a Gibson Les Paul, '72 SG and a Telecaster (currently tuned like a banjo to practice TIM picking) as my main guitars. Cheap, poorly made guitars give me hives. While I cannot see spending 2500USD on a banjo because I can't tell if I'll "take" to it and put it down in 3 weeks, I have been batting around the idea of Deering Goodtime Special II (with Tone-ring -- although I don't know why I need a Tone-ring) basically because I like maple fret boards (despite my Gibson/ebony fret board addiction.)

I suspect I'll end up paying between 500-1000USD for my first banjo and while I like the Goodtime that furniture like headstock joint is giving me major pause. And even though I (think I) have never heard Earl Scruggs' "Earl's Breakdown" I suppose I want traditional banjo tuners.

What do you propose is a good first banjo for someone like me?

In this case, if I were you, I'd look for the more traditional featured banjo...such as the Deering Boston...or the Gold Tone OB-250 series...additionally, you'll want to consider what style of music you hope to achieve...if you're into learning a bluegrass approach, I'd recommend a resonator banjo...if you're looking to frail, you'll want an open-back...it sounds like you're already aware of this...and have been perusing our FAQ database...

You can start out with a lower end banjo such as the BG-250F...and still have most of the traditional features expected in a bluegrass banjo...this would allow you to gain some ground before investing too much...and, remember, we have a 100% trade-up policy that will allow you the latitude to get into a higher end banjo at a later time...

Hope this helps, Mickey

Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 00:21:14 -0400

Greetings Steve,

Glad to assist if I can:


Hi Mickey,

Greetings from Buffalo, NY, actually a good little hotbed of Bluegrass. Have enjoyed reviewing your site and had the opportunity to speak with someone from your place on Saturday regarding banjos. I don't have his name, but he was most helpful.

Wanted to ask you a couple of regarding instruments. I'm in the Coast Guard, do a lot of travel in my current assignment and anticipate doing even more in my next assignment out of New Orleans (by the way, do you know of any good instructors down there). 

Sorry, I'm not sure of any in the New Orleans area; however, you can probably check with a local music shop as soon as you arrive...most shops will always have a list of instructors to choose from...

I currently have a Gold Star that my wife got me as a wedding present 19 years ago. It's a beautiful instrument and very heavy with the bell bronze tone ring and other quality parts. It's a real chore to take on trips.

I love Gold Star and even know the originator personally. These are sold made banjos with high quality parts in Japan. Held in high esteem even to today...their value exceeds what they originally sold for...

I'm looking for a lighter banjo as a travel instrument. It took getting to Buffalo to find an instructor, so my skills have grown a lot with this past year of lessons. I want to keep the consistency. My instructor has a number of banjos, but teaches with a Goodtime. That initially got me interested in either that or the Goodtime II. As I looked over your site, I became interested in the Gold Tones as a possible alternative. I'm looking for an instrument I can put in a good gig bag and carry over my shoulder. I want a full size banjo rather than a "travel" banjo to maintain the hand positions and general feel, a good sounding and good playing instrument; it doesn't need the power since if I need that the Gold Star does quite well. 

I would recommend the CC-100R...if you're looking for a light-weight resonator model. They offer the best value since they even come with a brass tone ring...if you want to shave off further weight, you might want to go with the CC-100 without resonator...be aware, the tone ring will had an added weight factor over the Goodtime II.

Guess you could say my style is primarily Bluegrass, which would suggest a resonator, but I can go with an open back for my purposes, too. I'm looking at the $400 range and my research has lead me to either of the Goodtimes or the Gold Tone Maple Classic or Cripple Creek. Listened to the Cripple Creek video, but there weren't any for the Maple Classic. I have a couple of questions about the Gold Tones:

Are either of these models assembled in the US as the higher quality Gold Tones are?

On all models final assembly and final set-up are completed here in the US...such as planing the neck, polish the frets, adjust the nut, adjust tailpiece, truss rod, and the coordinator rods...


I understand that many of the parts come from Korea, are they all?

All parts are from Korea...the majority of the parts are made from the tool and die system Gold Tone sent over themselves...


In August 2000, you had this to say in the Goodtime FAQ section: "The neck action is excellent and I can ensure you that you will not get frustrated because of difficult playability (normally encountered with export banjos).  Does this apply to the Gold Tones?

Most definitely! They all come with ease of playability...if an action happens to be abnormally high, we adjust them before sending them out. Fortunately, Gold Tone does quite a bit of set-up work on their end before we even see the banjos.

What is the cost of changing the guitar style tuners to planetary ones?
Based on the info I've given you, can you make a recommendation? I'd expect that with the experience you have, you've successfully put a lot of people together with instruments.

It's a very reasonable upcharge for planetary tuners in place of the guitar tuners...call our toll free number for current pricing...


To help me continue to develop after I leave Buffalo and until I can find a new instructor, what teaching videos, books, CDs, etc. do you recommend the most to people? I'd consider myself an "intermediate beginner" (how's that). Also, what technique(s) can you recommend to memorize songs (hardest part for me)?

I love the Alan Munde series since everything I've ever heard Alan do has been phenomenal. He has a great series of tapes that we carry starting from beginning Bluegrass banjo on up to advanced.

A book that is a must-have is Peter Wernick's "Bluegrass Banjo"...which we carry...see the review on our website. (This book just recently went out of print in June of 2002)

If you're looking for a banjo video that goes beyond teaching only Bluegrass, and delves into other styles on banjo such as rock, ragtime, jazz and classical, check out my "Intro to the 5-String Banjo" video...the reason I put this one out was to fill a void in the banjo video market which almost always covers Bluegrass and not the many other styles of music which can also be achieved on 5-string.

Final comment, I listened to many of the video clips of many different brands and instruments on your site (a real treat, great playing--you looked so at ease). Was totally blown away by the Stelling Red Fox. What a different sound than anything else I heard. If I ever get good enough......

Thanks for the kind words...I agree, the Red Fox is nothing short of phenomenal! Remember our trade-up policy...

Thanks in advance for your time and help, and hope to chat with you at some point,


Steve Hardy

Nice to have met you by e-mail...please stay in touch with further questions...

Mickey

From: "Patterson Richard"
Subject: Deciding on a Stelling
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 16:59:59 -0500

Mickey,
I am actively searching for my next banjo, and have limited it down to
Gibsons and Stellings. Specifically, I am interested in the Bellflower,
the Staghorn, and the Red Fox for Stellings, and the Top-Tension Models for
Gibson. I have actually never played a top-tension, but have heard about
their thunderous volume and power, which is exactly what I'm looking for.
I play solely bluegrass and need a lot of punch, hence my similar interest
in Stellings. Which do you prefer for volume and clarity? Also, I very
rarely see any bluegrass musicinas at festivals, etc. playing top-tensions.
Do they know something I don't, and if so, what is it? I definately will
be buying soon, and plan on utilizing your trade-up policy (via a Gold-Tone
OB 250 I purchased from you about a year ago), and just need a little
coaxing as per my decision. Are top-tensions louder than Stellings or
vice-versa or are they comparable. Any help you provide would be greatly
appreciated...you've always been helpful in the past.
Richard Patterson

Greetings Richard,

The Top-Tension models do have a certain trebly, high-pitched quality that a flathead would never achieve. Although, the bottom-end may lack depending on the particular model. I have a friend here locally, Jay Castleberry, that has a Tennessee top-tension that he swears by...I, personally, prefer a banjo with a little more bottom-end for playing solo or with one other guitar, etc.

For a rifle crack, with decent bottom-end, I'd say the Stelling is the ultimate. It most definitely is the loudest banjo I've ever played to date...and will certainly compete or surpass most any top-tension banjo.

I believe the top-tension is rare enough not to be commonplace at bluegrass festivals. Even so, some major exponents of the top-tension have certainly made it an acceptable bluegrass instrument: for instance, Bill Keith and Ralph Stanley.

Hope this helps...Mickey

Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 03:41:39 -0600

Greetings William,

We have just about every banjo under the sun available...Deering, Gibson, Wildwood, Stelling and Goldtone...out of these, you can narrow down by what style of music you hope to accomplish on your new banjo.

I believe that the Stelling is one of the loudest...Deering makes a variety of banjos offering a variety of tonal qualities; Wildwood makes one of the nicest workhorse bluegrass banjos, and Goldtone is making one of the best value banjos...Gibson is offering up a banjo that holds to tradition.

Let me know what you're looking for in a banjo and I can further assist you in narrowing down your choices. Mickey

Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 00:40:21 -0600
Subject: Banjo Questions Resonator vs. Openback

Love to see a better picture of your SS-10 old time banjo; maybe your catalogue will provide that. I am seriously searching for a new banjo to purchase but am having troubles deciding! What would be the advantages for and against an open back model verses a resonator style? Is the neck on the ss-10 maple like the rim? Looking foreward to the arrival of all this neat information; thankyou so much. Jim 


Hello Jim,

Your decision on whether to purchase an Open-Back or Resonator banjo should be pre-determined by the style of music you intend to play...certainly other factors come into play such as weight, size, ease of playability, aesthetics, etc. Even so, what style of music you intend to play would be the determining factor. An open-back banjo is great for traditional Appalachian application and certain styles and approaches such as frailing and clawhammer...A resonator banjo is great for bluegrass styles where volume and projection is a concern...

The SS-10 offer all-maple construction...we also have many other all-maple openbacks such as: the Gold Tone MC-150 and CC-150 or the Deering Goodtime Models...I do love the SS-10's aesthetics...inlays and overall style...

Now, if you're hoping to play bluegrass, you'll most definitely want a resonator banjo...within this body style, the best value would be the Gold Tone series...
Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 01:01:56 -0600

Hello Dan...

I'd be glad to assist:


Hello,
My name is Dan Bishop, and I am 18 years old. I have played and
instructed both piano and percussion at a professional level....and I
learned how to play guitar a little. I own a Rogue banjo. I think it
is a pretty good beginner model....seems to play well. I have gone
through and done all of your lessons, but now I need help. I need a set
of finger and thumb picks, for I have none. I also need a soft case for
my banjo. And most of all, I need a good book that will cover technique
and chords and take me from beginner to at least high end intermediate.
I have searched your sight, but now I am open for your personal help,
please. If you could help me with...
1. what bag to get for my banjo.

My recommendation is a heavy duty gig bag...stay away from thin vinyl bags. They offer no protection whatsoever. We carry only top end banjo bags with heavy duty stitching and padding...with zippered pockets. Our standard gig bag retails for 59.00; your discount cost through us would be 39.95.

2. what strap would be ok for my banjo.

There are many straps available from inexpensive to truly expensive. With the type of banjo you have, because it's relatively light as compared to professional banjos, you can make-do with one of our clip on straps...your cost 7.65. We also carry our very own, exclusive "Circle Straps" which are far more expensive and lend themselves well to heavy banjos. We sell these, with our very own Silver Stamped FOTW Logo for 29.95 go to: New Original FOTW Banjo Strap!...an overkill for light, student-level banjos...but well balanced just the same.

3. where I can get a set of picks....

We carry a wide variety of fingerpicks and thumbpicks. My recommendation, and what I personally use, would be 2 dunlop metal fingerpicks and 1 dunlop plastic thumbpick. We sell these at 1.00 each.

4. Which instructional video would be best for me ( I can pick up VERY fast, so the more it covers, the better).

A good all-around banjo video would be: "You Can Teach Yourself Banjo" by Janet Davis. Your cost 23.95 Retails 29.95...

5. Any good play along or instructional cds.

If you like bluegrass, a great standard would be Peter Wernick's Bluegrass Banjo Book/CD compilation your cost 19.95...

If you could help me with these questions and get me on my way....I
am sure I will practice a lot. Thank you soo much.

Shipping is 2-day priority for any amount of accessories: 4.00

Please get back with me if you have any questions regarding setting up your banjo or getting past the stumbling blocks during the learning process.

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 22:53:09 -0600

Hi there,

I'm interested in buying a 5-string banjo and I was hoping that you
could recommend a model for me. Right now I have a 1920s Slingerland
Maybell tenor banjo that is a very comfortable size and weight for me
(I'm a very petite woman with small hands). I would like something that
is physically manageable with a traditional (plucky?) sound. Any
suggestions?

Thanks,
LaLena Lewark

Hello LaLena,

I'd be glad to assist...

There are many choices...to categorize, you have two main classifications of banjos:
1. Open-Back: great for old-time styles and clawhammer 2. Resonator: great for bluegrass and other more contemporary styles...

For your size, and for starting out, I'd recommend a nice light open-back banjo...One that really impresses me is the Saga SS-10...it has a real tone ring that offers that traditional (plucky) tone and traditional reverse banjo keys...for affordability, the Goodtime series cannot be beat.

Deering Goodtime Banjos:

In reference to the Deering Goodtime...I love the feel and the tone quality is excellent. I've been playing banjo for 25 years, and I can really see value in the Goodtime. The neck action is excellent and I can ensure you that you will not get frustrated because of difficult playability (normally encountered with export banjos). It's extremely lightweight and offers great portability.
I highly recommend the Deering Goodtime open-back...
This banjo is made from a beautiful solid light-colored maple throughout. It's made in the US and offers easy playability along with tremendous tone. I, myself, play one and keep one handy by my computer. Mickey

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 11:23:56 -0600

Thanks Mick: What are "reverse banjo tuners"? Pardon my lack of familiarity... Jim


Hello Jim,

"Reverse Banjo Tuners", my own terminology, means that the tuners protrude from the back end of the peghead...many cheaper banjos use guitar tuning machines, instead of traditional banjo tuners (reverse), that protrude from the side of the peghead. This makes it impossible to play certain Scruggs' "D Tuner" tunes such as "Randy Lynn Rag" or "Earl's Breakdown"...there are many other tunes outside of Scruggs such as "Riding the Waves"...Now, even though these tunes are easier to play with standard reverse tuning keys, ultimately, you'll want to install "D Tuners" that have locking cams that allow the keys to stop directly on the notes of choice. These lock one note on the upper end and one note on the lower end...we have two different types of these keys available: Schaller "D Tuners" and Keith "D Tuners" (the originator) Watch for our banjo accessory page updates...Mickey

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 00:33:01 -0600

Dear Mickey,

Thanks for the quick replay. Remember I told you I was a novice? What is the
difference between geared tuner pegs and Planetary pegs?

Also, any advice on best lessons?

Thanks,

George


Hello George,

We usually reference the Fifth String Peg when we talk about geared tuners. The reason is that many cheaper banjos do not offer a geared fifth string peg...most all the time, the other 4 tuners on the peghead are geared. Therefore, always look for a geared tuner at the fifth string to ensure easy and accurate tuning. A peg that is not geared essentially has no ratio when turning the peg...this means that as the peg is turned, the string is tightened in direct proportion. On a geared tuner, we have what is called "geared ratio" which means that the string is tightened slightly for every full revolution that the peg is turned. This ensures a finer tuning process.

Planetary Pegs: are a brand of pegs that are standard on most high-end banjos...Planetary pegs are always reverse pegs...this means that the pegs protrude directly behind the peghead. Many cheaper banjos offer standard guitar tuning machines; these types of pegs are located directly on the outside (top and bottom) of the peghead (similar to what you see on most every guitar).

Hope this helps...

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 00:33:01 -0600

Dear Mickey,

Thanks for the quick replay. Remember I told you I was a novice? What is the
difference between geared tuner pegs and Planetary pegs?

Also, any advice on best lessons?

Thanks,

George


Hello George,

We usually reference the Fifth String Peg when we talk about geared tuners. The reason is that many cheaper banjos do not offer a geared fifth string peg...most all the time, the other 4 tuners on the peghead are geared. Therefore, always look for a geared tuner at the fifth string to ensure easy and accurate tuning. A peg that is not geared essentially has no ratio when turning the peg...this means that as the peg is turned, the string is tightened in direct proportion. On a geared tuner, we have what is called "geared ratio" which means that the string is tightened slightly for every full revolution that the peg is turned. This ensures a finer tuning process.

Planetary Pegs: are a brand of pegs that are standard on most high-end banjos...Planetary pegs are always reverse pegs...this means that the pegs protrude directly behind the peghead. Many cheaper banjos offer standard guitar tuning machines; these types of pegs are located directly on the outside (top and bottom) of the peghead (similar to what you see on most every guitar).

Hope this helps...

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 16:37:31 -0400

Thanks Mickey. I think I'll take a week or two to do a little research, then if the desire is still there I'll be back to talk to you about buying a banjo. Which model would you recommend from your selection? Consider that money isn't an issue, rather I want a good instrument that will be ahead of my skill level for at least a couple years. Thank you.

My brother Kirk Fry is in the process of purchasing a mandolin from you.
Since he will sound terrible by himself I am thinking of taking up the
banjo. Can you give some advice on if it is better to start on a guitar and
then move to the banjo, or just start with the banjo? And if someone with
no previous musical ability can learn to play? Then some advice on what to
buy. And what is a bracket, and are more brackets better? Any advice you
can give would be appreciated. Thank you.


Hello Phil,

I'd be glad to assist...

I just ed the Weber Yellowstone pix to your brother Kirk. Hope he likes them. His new Yellowstone is now on the way 2-day priority.

If your interest is banjo, start on the banjo! It can be more difficult to learn to play a banjo since there are more mechanics to fingerpicking than strumming a guitar (although, fingerstyle guitar can be just as challenging). What I'm trying to say is that if you have an avid interest in learning banjo, then tap into that inspiration...it will motivate you to practice hard. The inspiration to practice will predetermine whether you learn to play quickly and whether or not you stick to it...

I've taught many a student who considered themselves not to have any musical ability; it wasn't long before they realized that playing an instrument is more about having fun and enjoying the learning process. The learning process should always be considered a fun juorney...not a drudgery. It can be mostly up to the teacher to inspire the student to pursue the artform with high energy and relentless interest. If you're teaching yourself, then you'll essentially be taking the responsibility of keeping the process interesting. If this is true for you, then I'd recommend a variety of learning tools such as, videos, books and most importantly, an electronic tuner (for if you're playing an in-tune instrument, then you'll find that practicing can be pleasant to the ears...and others' ears around you).

A banjo bracket is the tension hook that tightens the banjo head down...more brackets are not necessarily better; although, more brackets usually reflects the quality level of a banjo.

Be sure to stay tuned on our lessons section of our website for beginning banjo tips...

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2000 23:39:39 -0600

Hi. I'm interested in learning how to play bluegrass banjo. As yet, I have no teacher and no banjo. I've looked at your "new" prices, and was wondering if you have any used banjos of good quality that I could start out on. I've also looked on Ebay, which is also an option for me. Can you give me any advice?

Thank you, Kathy McCoy

Hello Kathy,

There are many options for a good starter banjo...most is predetermined by the style of music you hope to pursue. For instance, if you are hoping to play bluegrass, you'll want a resonator banjo; or, if you hope to have a banjo that covers a variety of styles, a resonator banjo will fit the bill. Now, if you like old-time styles, such as appalachian frailing, you'll want an open-back banjo.

One of the best starter banjos we sell is the Goodtime banjo...these are available in both open-back and resonator models...made in the US with solid maple...Another consideration, and a great value, would be the Gold Tone banjo...Mickey

Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000

1. How about the use of an electrical pickup on a banjo?  As noted I have this on my guitar. 2. How do you fasten a strap to the banjo?  My (very cheap) banjo has two metal loops on nuts fastened to the body.  I haven't seen anyting like this on the Deering banjos I looked at and can't imagine they would do this on a Calico.

We install 5th string capos all the time (both the Shubb Rail System and the HO Railroad Spikes)...and, I highly recommend them for versatility and ease of playability. Switching keys is fast and easy! 1. For banjo pick-ups, there are a lot of options...it truly depends on how close you'd like your banjo to retain an acoustic tonal quality or electrified tonal quality. 2. Fastening a strap to a banjo depends on the type of strap used: A. Banjo Strap with Clips: these hook directly to the tension hooks...usually below the tailpiece and behind the heel of the banjo. B. Banjo Strap Cradle Type: two thinner straps are weaved under the hooks and permanently tied on the underside...this is the better alternative... We carry both of the above straps...

Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000

What makes a bluegrass banjo different from a different 5 string?  Is it the action, construction, what?

 A bluegrass banjo meets certain standards such as: 1. It will have a resonator... 2. It usually will have a tone ring for that certain quality of tone. 3. It will most definitely have reverse tuning machines instead of guitar style keys. This way you can play traditional Scruggs tunes that requiring de-tuning in the middle of the song. 4. It can have both a flathead or top tension tone ring... 5. It will require a 5th string...a tenor or any 4-string banjo can never be a bluegrass banjo (unless you change out the neck to a 5-string). As far as how a 5-string Bluegrass banjo differs from another 5-string...the main classification difference between 5-string Openback vs. Resonator models.

Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000

Just found found a banjo again that I had bought several years ago. At 60 is there a chance that I might learn a few songs? What style would be the easiest to learn?

There's every chance in the world to learn...depending on your determination. I honestly believe it's never a matter of "is it too late" to learn an acoustic instrument. Music should be inspiring and exciting no matter what your age. Let me ask you this: "Do you still enjoy listening to acoustic music"? If so, then you certainly should enjoy learing to play an acoustic instrument no matter what your age. Age is a state of mind, as is anything in life...it's our own perspectives that seem to limit our potential. You can be informed by any myriad of others that one thing is possible and another impossible; yet, it's your own determination and desire that will truly reveal whether something is possible or not.

Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000

Please explain "planet tuners." Are they geared?

Planetary tuners are reverse tuning machines found on the peghead of the Saga...most banjos in this price range only offer guitar tuning machines which project out of the side of the peghead instead of being reversed from behind the peghead...as do planetary pegs.

Date: Sun, 7 May 2000

Hello I have been using your free banjo lesons . I got to #4 and wondered if there was certain fingers of the left hand to use on certain strings , and if there is , is there a good book for beginers that would show me this?.

Yes...there's a first position for the left hand that usually formulates as follows: 1st fret Index Finger 2nd fret Middle Finger 3rd fret Ring Finger 4th fret Pinky Finger This normally applies with exeptions...such as sliding etcetera...

Date: Thu, 4 May 2000

Hello, I have a Gibson RB250 that has an apparent low nut with the 1st string buzzing the first fret- open. No other problems anywhere else. Must I replace the nut? Is there any kind of patch, shim, that could serve as a fix? The little piece of paper that I inserted into the string slot raises the string enough, but the string is somewhat muted.

My recommendation it to take it to a qualified repair person...if you feel confident about doing your own repairs, you can follow the following procedure. Please understand, I do not take responsibility for any mishap that may concur in your effort to correct this "low nut". I only know the following works for us: You only need to remove the nut by carefully cutting a score with an exacto knife...tap it lightly towards the keys until it loosens. Clean and sand away any glue residue. Find a veneer that will fit under the nut as a shim. Test it without gluing to ensure you have the height you're looking for. Then glue the shim underneath the nut with a Elmer's glue...this way you can remove it at a later date...do not use any kind of epoxy or super glue.

Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000

I'm not sure where to hook the strap. My old banjo had little loops on the pot. Do I just hook it to the j-hooks??

You only need to hook on the starp at any of the tension hooks that best balance the banjo when standing.

From reading the Deering Deluxe manual, I now know the importance of proper maintenance. Do you have some sort of kit that has polish, fast fret, a waxing cloth, etc, I can use to keep my banjo looking new? Also, Can you suggest any other tools and spare parts I should have, like the T-wrench, etc?

You know, this would be a great idea to develop. Sorry, we currently do not have a kit of this nature. Now, you should have received a maintenance manual from Deering in your case. Be sure to follow its directions carefully.Please stay tuned, I will build some banjo accessory packages based on your requests...

Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000

I'm in the market for an open back banjo. I always thought the more brackets a banjo had the better is was. is this true?? The deering good time only has 16 brackets I think, and people seem to think it sounds good. Would it sound even better if it had 24 or 28 brackets. If I did get a good time ,later down the road could I add 16 more-- brackets? would that be a wise upgrade??

I do not think that the more brackets the better the tone truly applies...there is a tonal difference, but it would be next to imperceptible to the average listener. We do have some superb sounding Wildwoods that have 24 brackets. Although, I'd have to say that the tonal quality is attributed to its Tubaphone tone ring...

I would recommend upgrading to a Wildwood later on down the road...after purchasing a Goodtime. Remember, we offer a full trade-up policy so you would not be losing any of your initial investment. I would not recommend attempting to modify a Goodtime...it would not be cost effective.

In reference to the Deering Goodtime...I love the feel and the tone quality is excellent. I've been playing banjo for 20 years, and I can really see value in the Goodtime. The neck action is excellent and I can ensure you that you will not get frustrated because of difficult playability (normally encountered with export banjos). It's extremely lightweight and offers great portability.

I highly recommend the Deering Goodtime open-back...

This banjo is made from a beautiful solid light-colored maple throughout. It's made in the US and offers easy playability along with tremendous tone. I, myself, play one and keep one handy by my computer.

Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000

This relating to my banjo. I changed the strings the other day, but when I finished, I noticed that the 5th string was much closer to the fretboard than the others. Any idea as to why this might be?

This is more than likely due to the "zero" fret that's located where the 5th string resides....it serves as the nut, but you'll notice that it's much lower than your nut by the peghead.

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000

What's the difference between the Serria and the Boston. I know the rings are different, but is that all? Are we talking ring quality or workmanship? Is the resonator on the Serria detachable?

The Sierra offers a Bell-Brass tone ring...the Boston's metal rim serves as the tone ring. The Sierra has reverse Planetary Pegs...the Boston has regular guitar style machine heads. The Boston has a removeable flange which converts to a traditional open-back. They're both finely crafted and offer a lifetime warranty.

Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000

I have an 8 string plectrum banjo, same size as 5 string banjo, and would like to buy a microphone for it. I dont know anything about sound amplification. What manufacturers, what price range, what is most comonly used , whats the best. where to buy.

There are many choices when it comes to sound reinforcement for a banjo: 1. A mini-mic that can be clipped onto the flange near the resonator- Pros: Gives you a natural acoustic sound-Allows for more mobility than a stationary mic on a stand. Cons: Can reverberate and cause feedback- 2. A standard condenser mic- Pros: Gives you a natural acoustic sound-Can give you the ability to raise and lower volume by moving in closer to the mic or further from the mic. Cons: Does not allow for mobility on stage- 3. A transducer- Pros: Easier to amplify without feedback-can be fed directly through electronic effects easier- Cons: Does not recreate the natural acoustic properties of the instrument- 4. Bridge Pickup- Pros: The least problematic with feedback-Easier to amplify without feedback-can be fed directly through electronic effects easier- Cons: Does not recreate the natural acoustic properties of the instrument- The choice of any of the above would be predicated on artistic preference...I personally like using a microphone to achieve a more natural acoustic sound. What's the point of having a vintage acoustic instrument if you're not capturing it's natural acoustic properties through sound reinforcement.

Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000

I was wondering if there is a way to improve the action? The strings seem REALLY hard to push down, I use martin/vega medium gauge strings.

To adjust your action: 1. Scope your neck on its top edge to determine if there's any warp in it. It should be relatively straight with only the slightest bow. If there is a larger bow, that may be the cause of high action. To correct a warped neck, take your banjo to the nearest music store or luthier for a truss rod adjustment.

2. If the neck is relatively straight, and you would still like to lower the action, you'll want to sand down the bridge legs on a flat surface with a fine sandpaper. It's highly recommended that you take your banjo to your nearest instrument repair technician to do this...

3. Make sure that you're only using light gauge strings to minimize stress and contribute to easier playability.

Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000

Is it possible that after about 18 years of playing the head is "dead"? Do heads have to be replaced anyway?

I would highly recommend replacing the head; you may have a slight tear after many years of playing that is now affecting the tone. You might also consider a clear banjo head if you're looking for a brighter, more alive tone. When replacing the head, be sure to approach the tightening of the head with a star shape adjustment. In other words, as if drawing a star, tighten each tension hook accordingly. You might also consider tuning the head to an "A" to ensure that there's no dissonance by tightening in between tones.

Is it really critical to keep both ring and pinkie fingers on the head for anchors, or can I just let it go? Or does it "obey" after more practice? Looking at pictures of famous players, I notice they have both fingers anchored - is that important for speed, accuracy, and timing?

I highly recommend having an anchor of your little finger and not to worry about anchoring your ring finger. I've played professionally for over 20 years with only my little finger anchored whenever playing Sruggs style. And, when I approach other styles such as classical and ragtime, I do not anchor any fingers on the head. I even use my ring finger to pick with to bring in more fullness.

Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999

I am very interested in learning to play the banjo. I would appreciate any info you could provide about what I should look for in purchasing my first banjo and your thoughts about the kind of instruction I should seek, being that I never played an instrument before. Looking forward to your response Thanks much! Greg Byrne

Hello Gregory, What banjo to first purchase would be based primarily on what style of music you're interested in pursuing. There are a variety of approaches to the banjo in a myriad of styles. For instance, if you're interested in the appalachian approach (clawhammer) then you would consider an open-back banjo over a resonator...if you're interested in bluegrass styles, then a resonator banjo would be the preferred banjo of choice. After, you've decided between these two main categories, you'll then need to decide on features that both of these type of banjos may offer.

Let me know how I might assist further...Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999

Greetings: I am curious to know if the CD that comes with the Peter Warick book is instructional in nature of if it is just a recording of him playing the songs included in the book. Additionally, has the book seemed satisfactory and productive for people who have purchased it? Thank you.

Steven Hoiberg, Advisor

Hello Steven,

In reference to the Peter Wernick "Bluegrass Banjo" book: Retails at 19.95

The CD is instructional in nature:
Track 1: Tuning
Track 2: Right Hand Rolls
Track 4: Left hand techniques such as hammer-ons...
Played Slowly and Quickly

And so on...and followed by tunes played slowly then quickly...I, personally did not have a teacher and started with this exact book 20 years ago +...I also played professionally for many years afterwards. This book will take you from a stark beginner level to a pro level once mastered. It coincides with Peter Wernick's career in bluegrass banjo...many tunes are from some of his earlier Country Cooking recordings. Mickey

Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999

THANKS FOR RESPONDING. I SHOULD HAVE BEEN A LITTLE MORE CLEAR. THE 12 LBS. IS WHAT A MASTERTONE-STYLE BANJO USUALLY WEIGHS DUE TO THE BRONZE TONE RING,AND WHAT I'VE FOUND SO FAR THAT A BANJO HAS TO HAVE TO PRODUCE THAT REAL "BLUEGRASS" SOUND. HOW MUCH DOES THIS SAGA BANJO WEIGH? I HURT MY BACK A WHILE BACK. I PRESENTLY HAVE THREE 12LB PLUS BANJOS ( GIBSON RB-250, IBENEZ ARTIST AND AN ARIA SB400) I NEED TO FIND A LIGHTWEIGHT BANJO THAT STILL PLAYS AND SOUNDS GOOD AS I PLAY WITH TWO BLUEGRASS BANDS AND THE HEAVIER BANJOS HURT AFTER STANDING FOR ABOUT 45 MINUTES. THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR TIME.

The Saga Style III is also fairly heavy weighing in at 11.35lbs. The Deering Boston is also heavy weighing in at 9.5 lbs. Now the Deering Goodtime only weighs 4.5lbs. and the tone is truly superb on these...although, when playing in a bluegrass band, it's almost expected to have a resonator style banjo. Mickey

Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999

HOW DOES THE TONE AND PLAYABILITY OF THIS BANJO (Saga Style III) COMPARE TO A DEERING "BOSTON" BANJO AND A 12 LB BANJO WITH A BRONZE TONE RING? THANKS, MIKE

Hello Mike, Both the Saga Style III and the Boston have metal rims that serve as tone rings. Even so, they both have a real good punch without the typical hollow tone commonplace to import banjos. They definitely both have a different tone than any 12lb banjo with a tone ring.

The Boston is a great banjo to say the least and comparing the two is a little subjective. They are both well-made instruments and both offer good tone and playability. What I do like about the Saga Style III is the peghead is designed in a traditional style with the keys reverse; the Boston is a guitar-style peghead with guitar tuning machines.

Let me know if you have any further questions...Mickey Cochran

Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1999

Hi Mickey, Practice is coming along well. Having a little trouble getting clean sounding notes when I chord, but its getting better. Also, my right hand has a tendency to creep toward the finger board. Do you have the CD software "Blue Grass Band". If so please send it to me. You should have all of my info.

Thanks, Rick Davies

Hello Rick, One way to ensure you're getting clear notes while chording, is to make sure that your palm is not resting on the neck of the instrument. Try to play with your thumb behind the neck which gives your fingers a better angle for clearance from adjoining strings.

To keep your picking hand stationary, try supporting your picking hand with your little finger on the face of the instrument.

We do not carry the CD software "Bluegrass Band"...although, it does sound like you might be ready for a video that will give you a visual reference of what you're trying to accomplish:

We have a few beginning Banjo Videos available:

Bluegrass Banjo The Beginner's Series Retails: 29.95 Your cost: 25.00

You Can Teach Yourself Banjo: 29.95 Your cost: 25.00

Anyone Can Play Banjo: 19.95

Shipping: FREE

Thanks again for your continued interest and let us know if you ever need anything else banjo related...We have strings, electronic tuners, picks, and instructional books/videos...

Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey Cochran

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999

Dear Folkwood: I am a 37 year old female who has taken banjo lessons for several years now. I currently use plastic picks but would very much like to use metal ones. Unfortunately, the standard size metal picks are too large for my fingers. Do you carry picks for children or small size metal picks. Any help you could pass on would be appreciated. Thanks! Donna B.

Hello Donna, We do not have any smaller picks in stock...only standard size metal picks. You're aware that they are adjustable...metal picks are designed to adjust to most any size finger. I'd be surprised if the standard size metal fingerpick won't fit you...you can even overlap the adjustable bands, so in essence, they should fit any size finger.

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999

I am trying to learn a bit about playing banjo. ayour lessons have been very helpful.

I have an old Kent banjo. The 5th string slips. Is replacing the tuner an option? Chett Buchanan

Hello Chett,

Yes, you can replace the 5th string peg...and we do stock them individually.

First, you might want to troubleshoot your problem:

1. Is the string tied under after it's looped...this will ensure that the string is slipping due to its winding. You might want to put a new string on the 5th string peg and tie it under the loop as you twist the peg...upon first making your winding, tie the string under so that as you tighten the string, the first loop goes under the first wind.

2. Is your peg a friction peg or a geared peg...Friction: as you tune the string, the string directly goes up/down in pitch on a 1:1 ratio...Geared: as you tune the string, it requires more revolutions for the string to go up/down in pitch...Sometimes, friction pegs will not hold the pitch if not mounted properly...my recommendation is to get a Geared 5th string peg; these are also easier to fine tune with...

3. Are the windings where the string attaches to the tailpiece coming unraveled...if so, this could be the cause of the string slippage.

Hope this helps...Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...

Mickey Cochran

Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999

Hi there, We tuned the instruments by the piano tonight. I downloaded your 4 beginner lessons. We have no picks, no tuner. I did not see those items in your catalog. Can you send me prices for the following items so that I can make an order in the next day or so:

2 sets of steel banjo strings (these ones are pretty old and rusty)

electronic tuner • two sets of finger and thumb picks

Your pricing follows on the above items:

Banjo Strings: Gibson 5-String Light or Medium 10.95 Retail Your Price: 7.00 per set

2 Sets of Fingerpicks and Thumbpicks Your Price 3.00 total

Electronic tuner: Chromatic...Retails 32.95 Your price: 25.00

As soon as I get this info, I will complete your order form. I do plan to order the Five String Banjo Learning Package. Are there are any other instructions with audio tapes to listen to that would be helpful? If so, please advise.

I highly recommend videos for beginners so that you can good habits from the start (it's really difficult to unlearn bad habits)...

We have 3 Banjo Videos available:

Bluegrass Banjo The Beginner's Series Retails: 29.95 Your Cost 25.00

Anyone Can Play Banjo: 19.95

You Can Teach Yourself Banjo Video Retails 29.95 Your Cost 25.00

We do have plenty of other books with accompanying CDs:

Bluegrass Banjo by Peter Wernick book with/CD: 19.95

Easy Banjo Solos book w/CD: 9.95

"You Can Teach Yourself Banjo" Book 9.95 retail

For your information, one of the banjos is a Harmony, with plastic head resonator style, with very plain style. The other is a Hohner, with skin head, resonator style, with quite ornate design and style. Both instruments seem to be in excellent condition. Looks like they've been used very little. The auto-harp is an Oscar Schmidt Model 15 EBH/R. It seems to be in excellent condition.

These are all fine instruments to start out on...Be careful to make sure your banjo necks are straight and won't pose a problem for you in starting out. Set up is very critical to making it less frustrating to learn. Hope this helps...Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey Cochran

Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999

Hi! I was looking at your auction and wonderin' about Scruggs pegs. When I played banjo about 25 years ago we used to use Scruggs pegs, but I don't see 'em mentioned any more. Are they not popular any more or are they so popular that they are standard? Thanks! - Jesse Slater ol' bluegrass picker

Hi Jesse, Sure, Scruggs' pegs are still around. I have them installed on my Gibson RB-800. You don't see them advertised, but they're still being used by many of the major players.

Let me know if I can answer any further questions...Mickey

Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999

First, how important is the resonator, especially for someone just learning? Will the absence of a resonator be a limitation if she really likes playing and wants to go pretty far?

Third, do you think the quality of the Deering would make it wear better than the Blueridge? Does it have better hardware? Thanks for your help; I'm pretty ignorant about the whole thing. Tom Taylor

Hi Tom, I personally do not feel the resonator is that critical to tone quality for the beginner. It appears to me that the most important reason for the beginner to have a resonator, is to fit in with a bluegrass band. The Deering has a truly superb tone and is finely crafted. They both will last well, but the Deering truly has the edge. The BB-60 is an import and the Deering is an American make. The Deering is higher quality in every respect including the hardware. Hope this helps...Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999

Thank you again!! Your offer to answer any questions got me thinking ... how do I clean my new banjo (which has obviously been gathering some dust while waiting to come home with me)? I'm a complete novice when it comes to the parts of a banjo (except for the strings, neck, tuning pegs ... everything else I can kind of see how they work, but maybe don't know what purpose they serve) ...any hints would be appreciated. Smiles to you, Nancy "Breathe the music of the universe."

Hi Nancy,

In answer to your question regarding cleaning your banjo:

It's recommended that both wood and metal parts be cleaned every 3 to 6 months for both keeping your banjo looking its best and for finish and metal protection.

Fingerboard Care:

Use Martin Guitar polish on the fingerboard and rub it in carefully and methodically between every fret. This will add moisture to the fingerboard and ensure that dirt and grime is removed.

Wood Finish Areas:

Again, use Martin Guitar polish on all wood parts....be careful to use a soft cotten cloth and rub gently. Avoid using any commercial wood polishes which usually contain harsh chemicals...Be sure to dry your instrument directly if you spill any liquid on it.

Head:

On the banjo head itself, you may clean it with Formula 409. Be sure to be careful not to get the cleaner on any of the metal or wood parts.

Chrome Metal Parts:

Use a cloth that has been treated with a chrome polish that is non-abrasive. Do not apply the polish direct to the metal; instead, apply it to the cloth evenly and be sure that it's only damp with the polish. Be careful not to get the polish caked or it may get caught under the hooks.

Gold Plated Metal Parts:

Never polish gold plating...it is easily worn and you'll only be contributing to its wear. Instead use a light polishing cloth that has not been chemically treated. Just be careful to not get any dirt on the cloth or you'll add to the wear of the gold plating. Let me know if you have any other specific questions...it's contributory to our database of FAQs that we'll be loading on to our website soon.

Keep on pickin' Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999

Hi, My girlfriend has played guitar chords in songs for 30 yrs. and has wanted to learn to play banjo. Now she is interested in buying one but we don't know what is a bad one or even what is a good one. We saw a Trump 5 string and an Estrella 5 string and liked both. We just don't know what to look for in a Banjo.

I also play guitar, flute, recorder, a little mandolin (I'll be checking out your instruction section) and bass. I know a solid top from a laminated one and how fret scale determines the effective bridge location and string length (critical on a mandolin). I also made some small wooden flutes on a lathe that are in tune and play 2 diatonic octaves with some chromatics.

So you see I'm not really a musical instrument idiot, I just have no practical experience with BANJOS. We hope to pay under $500 for this new venture and don't know what is overpriced and what we should trade the farm for. Thanks for your help. Marlan

Hi Marlan,

These are difficult subjective questions...A lot would be determined based on the following factors:

1. Resale Value (will the banjo hold its value)

2. Playability (for instance, is the neck straight...usually this is a good reason not to be used)

3. Look and Feel (is the banjo too heavy)

4. Your Budget

5. The Hardware (for instance if the keys are high quality to minimize frustration of tuning)

6. Warranty (preferred over purchasing used)

Taking these criterion into account:

A well-made affordable model you might consider is the Deering Goodtime...Made in the US and Openback...I love the feel and the tone quality is excellent. I've been playing banjo for 20 years, and I can really see value in the Goodtime, especially as my second practice banjo. The neck action is excellent and I will ensure you, if your friend is a student, that he/she will not get frustrated because of difficult playability (normally encountered with export banjos). It's extremely lightweight and offers great portability. This one will have a high resale value too. You may play it effectively for all styles of 5-string banjo including: classical, clawhammer, two-finger old-time or even three-finger bluegrass.

I normally sell the Goodtime for 250.00...ask about our free accessory package which we sometimes offer during sales.

Hope this helps, Let me know if I can assist you further...

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