Frequently Asked Questions About Appalachian Mountain Dulcimers

Subject: dulcimer questions
Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 22:18:50 -0600

Dear Folk of the Wood,

Greetings,

Glad to assist:

I am considering purchasing a FSH-W Dulcimer. I have keyboarding experience, and I can read music, but I have no experience with stringed instruments; and I want to change that.

I guess my first question is - is this a reachable instrument for a beginner who plans on teaching herself (at least at first)?

Most definitely...in fact, it's one of the easiest instruments to learn on offered in the string instrument family...even so, it can still be quite difficult to master. Just the same, lots of fun to learn...I've enjoyed playing and learning dulcimer myself...

A couple other questions: one of the Folkcraft options listed is Mother of Pearl position dots. Does the dulcimer have these and the mother-of-pearl is just an upgraded feature, or is this something I should consider adding? If I do consider adding them, how many are there? What is the benefit of having them? (I told you I have NO experience with dulcimers!)

This is only a decorative addition...the FSH Series comes with a dot position marker that works fine for points of reference...no real benefit to upgrading them...

How difficult is it to restring a dulcimer, and how often would this be necessary? Is this something I can learn to do, or something I would need to take to a music store and have a technician teach me?

It's very easy to restring a dulcimer...and, usually, unless you break a string, they can last many months before needing to be replaced. It's always a good idea to purchase an extra set of strings with your dulcimer...the strings have small loops that hook on the tail end of the dulcimer...while the other strings are threaded through the tuning keys...a very easy process...especially if you look at how the other strings already in place are threaded...

Is a strap necessary, or just a nice accessory?

I personally do not believe a dulcimer strap is necessary...I play with one on my lap without a problem...I suspect it can stabilize the instrument...only, I do not believe it's a necessity.

What type of cases are available - I would like to keep this in the $50 range, but will consider other options.

My suggestion would be the standard chipboard case offered with the Folkcraft...the plush lined case seems to add more cushion to the instrument with a tighter fit...and, it's only 42.50...when ordering, you'll want to be specific that you want the plush-lined case only:
Lozenge Case Plush Lining C182-FC $50.00 $42.50 38"x4"x8" Tapering to 5" Width

Does the dulcimer come with care instructions? (e.g. humidity levels, temperature, care instructions (do you polish it?))

No...however, we do have some instrument care instructions offered on our website at:
http://www.folkofthewood.com/page142.htm

If I decide to purchase this, I will also be purchasing your Ultimate Dulcimer Learning Package. (BTW-just what is a "noter"?) and also the video.

A noter is a traditional tool used to play the melody notes on an Appalachian Dulcimer...it's a small wooden dowel that is easy to use and hold...this is the traditional approach to playing dulcimer and is now somewhat of a novelty...as a dulcimer player, it's good to have a basic knowledge of all mediums available...most of the time, you will be playing with your fingers...which gives you more latitude to play chords and fast linear melodies.

The video would be one of the most important learning tools...since it gives you a visual approach to learning...proper positioning, how to hold the pick, and how to fret the fingerboard...and, seeing and hearing someone else play is very inspiring for your motivation level.

What other accessories should I consider with my purchase (such as picks, care accessories, etc.)?

I believe that a variety pack of picks can be very useful...this way you can find what fits you best...other care accessories should include a polishing cloth and Martin Guitar Polish...which is the only polish we believe in...since it's abrasive free...

Sorry for all the questions, but I need to make an informed opinion as to whether this is a good choice for me.

Hopefully, something here has assist you...please get back with me if you have further questions...

If you'd like to narrow your choice, or learn about the complete packages available, please call James @ 888-209-8434...

Mickey

Thanks in advance -

Pat Finch

Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 10:51:51 EST
Subject: Dulcimer Playing

Can you tell me what is the best key to play in or what key most people play
in.
I was told that the key of D is better That's tuning in D A D and then you
can play in the key also is this true or is it better to tune in D A A ?
Thank You,Vonnie Kiger

Greetings Vonnie,

I like the D A A tuning myself...probably because I've become accustomed to this tuning. I suspect that it's best to learn one standard tuning such as D A A and experiment later with other tunings. This way, as a beginner, you can stay focused and learn the fundamentals before complicating the learning process with a variety of tunings. Some pro dulcimer players utilize different tunings as predetermined by the song and key.

I would suspect that if you have a beginner dulcimer book, you should be able to use it as your first road map. If your book is teaching you the D A D tuning, then I'd recommend starting with this tuning...and, after mastering this book, try a D A A tuning book to further your studies.

Wishing you the best in your playing efforts, Mickey

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 13:19:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Fwd: 6 1/2 or 6+ Fret Dulcimer FAQs
From: MrsLester

My husband just gave me a MacSpadden dulcimer - model M12CC. What does it
mean when music says the dulcimer must have a 6+ or 6 1/2 fret?

Also, I am all confused about this ionian, mixolydian and etc. "stuff". Is
this a way of stringing the dulcimer, differnet strings or a method of tuning?

I have ordered a couple of books but patience waiting for the mail is NOT one
of my virutes especially when it comes to a new "toy". Can you Help???

--

Sure...glad to assist.

The 6.5 fret is a chromatic fret...allowing a half-step point within the diatonic scale. Most all dulcimers have frets spaced out to cover the diatonic scale (major scale): between the 3-4 fret it would be a half-tone and between the 7-8 fret it would be another half-tone (or half-step)...now, with the addition of the 6.5 fret, you have an increased range to allow you to play notes that do not fall within the major scale.

Ionian and Mixolydian are names given to scales to further assist the player in separating which is which (based on the original Church modes, a medieval system of scales, and now falling into the Modality category for modern usage)...for instance, using the half-step process, both of these scales, the Ionian and Mixolydian, can be classified by where the half-step falls within the scale; this is much easier to call out than for instance calling out the half-steps. For instance is much easier to say follow the Mixolydian scale than to say: "use the 3-4 half step and the 6-7 half step.

All this applies to is the intervals of notes utilized in scalar fashion; it does not have anything to with stringing the dulcimer or tuning the dulcimer.

Hope this helps...

Mickey

Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 02:44:24 -0600

Hello, I was wondering if you would be kind enough to answer some questions
for me. My father has expressed interest in learning to play a mountain
dulcimer and I'm not real sure as to what I should look for in
purchasing one for him. After looking on e-Bay, I determined if anyone
could help with my questions it would be you folks. I would like to get
him something nice, yet affordable, in case it's tougher to learn than
he expects. I would appreciate any advise you could give me. Thank you
for your time and trouble, and have a good weekend.

Tim & Celeste Offet

Hello Tim,

The Mountain Dulcimer can be one of the easiest instruments to learn to play a tune on...yet, it also offers challenges and can be a difficult instrument to master. There are many approaches to the mountain dulcimer that pre-determine the level of difficulty.
1. Standard Mountain Style: using a flatpick and strumming out the melody while fretting with the index finger on the melody strings (this is the chorus of strings closest to the player). This approach is usually the easiest to learn quickly. It can become more difficult as the player learns to harmonize the melody by fretting chords.
2. Traditional Appalachian Style: with this approach, the player utilizes a noter (a wooden dowel) to play the melody on the melody strings. The player will still strum with a flatpick with this approach.
3. Fingerstyle: with this approach, the player will fingerpick the 4 strings while chording with the fingers of the left hand...this is the most difficult approach of all...

Even though a beginner can get by with a cheaper dulcimer, such as dulcimers with laminate woods, it's best to consider purchasing a dulcimer with solid woods. The main reason is that practice can become more inspiring which will enlist the student to play more often...and, in this effort, the student progresses rapidly.

If this is for your father, I would suggest a more serious soundhole design such as the standard F-hole...be sure to check out our website for other soundhole designs.

My two all-time favorite dulcimers are made by Folkcraft:
Our most popular Dulcimers: The traditional hourglass models provide clean note definition and good volume. The FSH-W is made of solid Walnut and has a warm mellow sound. The FSH-CH is made of solid Cherry and has a bright sound.

Folkcraft Solid Walnut Hourglass Design
4 strings 36 1/2" long, 7 3/4" wide
Solid Black Walnut
Traditional Hourglass Design. Metal Tuning gears and ebony nuts and bridges.
Lifetime Warranty
Total Retail $309.95 Your Price: 245.00 (Plush Lined Case (39.95 retail) Included Free With Purchase)

Folkcraft Solid Cherry Hourglass Design
4 strings 36 1/2" long, 7 3/4" wide
Solid Cherry Wood
Traditional Hourglass Design. Metal Tuning gears and ebony nuts and bridges.
Lifetime Warranty
Total Retail $309.95 Your Price: 245.00 (Plush Lined Case (39.95 retail) Included Free With Purchase)
Remember our incomparable store policies:
* 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed
If the instrument doesn't fit you, we will refund you your purchase price in full...or exchange for another instrument of your choice. Please see our website for a further desciption: http://www.folkofthewood.com
* 100% Upgrade Value
After purchasing through us...your instrument will always hold its initial purchase value. If you'd ever like to upgrade to a more expensive instrument through us, we offer 100% trade-in value, on your Folk of the Wood original purchase, towards the purchase of any upgraded instrument we may have in stock, for as long as you own the instrument! This trade-in value does apply towards our full discount pricing....this is our way to ensure you're investing your money in instruments that you can grow into...without any loss of initial investment. And, this applies for as long as you own the instrument originally purchased through us. Mickey

Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 17:49:28 -0600

As per above, is there any savings in FSH-W, FSH-CH and cases? I have never played a dulcimer...have played a ukelele and piano through the years. I saw and listened to a dulcimer recently at an 18th century reenactment and was very taken with it. Are they hard to play? What is a "bright sound" versus "warm, mellow". What about volume? The one I saw had an electronic "booster" attached to it because it couldn't compete with the guitars and mandolin. ????? Any suggestions or help in selecting a dulcimer would be appreciated.
Thank you, Mary

Hello Mary...

Sure, we have a tremendous savings on both the Folkcraft solid wood models!

I believe the mountain dulcimer to be one of the easiest instruments to learn a melody on...and, they can also be as challenging as any other instrument to master...my suggestion is to purchase a dulcimer video on how to play...this would be the next best thing to having a personal instructor...

The woods of a dulcimer will determine if it has a bright sound, volume or a warm mellow tone...or, different degrees of all of the above...if you're looking for a loud bright tone, you'll want to go with solid cherry or solid spruce tops...additionally, we can install a transducer pick-up so that the dulcimer could be plugged into an amp...this way you'll never be at a lack for volume. Mickey

Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000

What is the secret to "NEATLY" wrapping the strings around the tuners??? Mine turned-out lookin like a rat's nest of wire!

For re-stringing a dulcimer, be careful to start on one winding and allow the windings to build on each revolution so that they are neatly stacked as you tune up the string. After pushing the end of the string through the hole, pull up the string about 6-8 inches to allow the string to be taut before winding...Additionally, cut off the slack (with wire-cutters) before winding to ensure that there's no interference...

Date: Wed, 24 May 2000

Useing a Korg chromatic tuner ca-20, What should the HZ be set at to tune a mountain dulcimer and what is the difference between setting at the low end 430hz and setting at the high end 449hz ?

Hertz should be set at 440 A...this is your standard for tuning all instruments. Other hertz settings are usually only applicable for calibration

Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000

I'm leaning towards the Folkcraft Walnut, but going back to the lefty issue...I see now why you say that the nut has to be reversed (the DD strings which are played in unison, right?) On the Folkcraft, however, one of the pegs where the strings attach is several inches lower than the others. Would this also be a concern when switching to accomodate a lefty? Let me know.

This would be no concern...all of the strings would be the same height...and the windings would not pose a problem.

Would this same problem exist if I went with either the Appalacian or Wildwood by Hill Country, or on these models are the pegs flush with one another in terms of where they lie below the nut as they appear to be? In terms of these Hill Country models, which do you prefer and/or what's the difference?

I would not recommend the Hill Country models unless you're on a budget...they are all made with laminate woods. They still sound okay and play okay...but do not have the heirloom quality you'll find in the Folkcraft models.

In terms of reversing the nut, is that something you guys can do for me? If so, I'd sincerely appreciate it.

Upon placing your order, you only need to request that we set it up for lefties and we will accommodate free of charge.

Can a dulcimer be tuned with an on-board tuner (clipping it to a peg head or something)? Lastly, is replacing the strings just like on any other stringed instrument, or is there some type of special technique?

Of course...you can clip the on board tuner to the peghead for more accurate tuning. We also carry these, although they are expensive as compared to our Korg tuners that work as well...we sell the Korg for 15.00.

Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000

My mother gave me a dulcimer she purchased at a "Flying Fish" festival in the 60's and I have been learning to play it with the help of some of her old instruction books. Both she and the books say there is an advantage to playing the dulcimer with turkey feathers rather than a normal pick. I have been doing so thus far, but I am rather incredulous. Is there an actual musical advantage, or is it just tradition?

I'd have to hand this one over to tradition...Take into consideration, the medium of using a turkey feather would lend itself to a different tonality. For instance, if you're looking for a light, delicate tone, the feather base would offer a new medium. Better yet, it would be best to have all gauges of flatpicks along with traditional tools such as feathers and noters to be able to cover the gamut of achieving many different tonalities adding to your palette of tonal colors. For volume and overall dynamics, a flatpick is best...

Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000

I would like to learn more, including where I may find an instructor in my area, and what I should look for when purchasing my first instrument. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Be careful when first purchasing a hammered dulcimer...try to purchase one with 5 years or more warranty. The warranties establish whether the manufacturer believes enough in them to stand behind them. Another consideration is to purchase a solid wood top if possible for better tonal quality. To find a local instructor, contact your local music store...also, you might consider purchasing a couple of videos on the topic to assist you in getting oriented. This is the next best thing to having a personal instructor in the same room as you.

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000

I bought my dulcimer from you & the Korg tuner Guittar/Bass GA-20. Today I read all the directions for the tuner, but I have a question: do I put it on "bass" or "guitar" for tuning? How do I inform the tuner, that I want the melody & middle strings to be keyed to C, & the bass to F? Do I just hold the tuner against the dulcimer, so it automatically tunes it, sine I can't plug anything in? Do I use "automatic" or "manual" to tune?

Put it on Guitar mode and automatic...On your lower string, tune it until you see a "D" come up...on the remaining strings, tune them to "A" one octave higher than the "A" used for guitar. You only need to let the tuner's internal mic pick up the tone of the instrument. You may place it in close approximation to the instrument, or lay it flat on top of the instrument's soundboard.

Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000

Made my own dulcimer but don't know how to tune it. Read your article on tuning. Does the electronic tuners tune the dulcimer as well as the guitar? How many different electronic tuners do they make? Thank you for your time it is deeply appreciated.

The Electronic Guitar Tuner works the same on both the guitar or the dulcimer. It contains both the D and the A notes that also apply to dulcimer. If you're looking for a tuner that covers a variety of tunings for dulcimer, I'd recommend the Chromatic tuner; it's a little more expensive but covers both the mountain dulcimer in a variety of tunings and the hammered dulcimer.

Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000

I have 18 frets on the dulcimer I bought from you, where is & what are the numbers of each of the 18 frets. I'm trying to use the "Fun with the Dulcimer" book, that you sent. On p. 7 is the first song "Brother John." The first note is middle C & is labeled fret 3. But considering my 18 fret dulcimer is the first fret # 1 or is it #0? If the first fret is #1 is the second fret #2, third fret #3 making that third fret a middle C? Do I just keep going from the tuning pegs to th bottom of the dulcimer in the key of C by numbering each fret 1 letter up until I have all 18? What about sharps & flats in the two books? Do I just keep going up the scale with each fret being from middle C, the next fret D, the next fret E, the next fret F, the next fret G, then the next fret A, etc. until all 18 are covered?

Here's what you're encountering: The Dulcimer you have has a "chromatic" fret at the 4th fret (the fret that is the most narrow)....when reading from the number system in your book, be sure to omit counting this fret. Your first fret would still start at fret number 3 if you're using the DAA tuning (the D string being the lowest and thickest gauge). In this tuning, the third fret would be a "C" note. As far as sharps and flats, your dulcimer is fretted on the diatonic scale omitting sharps and flats (other than your chromatic fret). This is only true in the key of C...if playing a song in D or A, even your diatonic fretting will have sharps and flats dependent on the key you're playing in.

Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000

1. Are the strings on the instrument "special" dulcimer strings? Where could the strings be purchased? 2. How does one "care" for the wood of the instrument? What kinds(s) of oils, waxes, preservatives should be applied to the wood to preverve/protect/nourish it?

1. Depending on the model, you'll find that some dulcimers are strung with ball-end strings and most are strung with loop end strings. On your standard mountain dulcimer, you'll want to purchase dulcimer strings that are 4 to the pack. This ensures that you're purchasing the right gauge. Just make sure that the strings you're needing are the loop ends. 2. I would not recommend any waxes or oils for polishing. In fact, there's only one commercial instrument polish that I'd recommend: Martin Guitar Polish. This has been analyzed as the least abrasive polish available.

Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999

Aloha Mickey, Mahalo for the information. I'll probably try to sell the viola here, rather than hassle with shipping. One of the ladies in my band, The Wild Irish Roses, teaches violin and may buy the viola for a student. Then I'll just buy as much dulcimer as I can get for whatever it sells for plus whatever I've got in my pin money jar.

The black walnut is the most appealing looking right now. I know I can chord the dulcimer to play in different keys, and am practicing that as well as running melody on the double strings and letting the single A and D drone. I prefer the sound of the drone strings. I've tried re-tuning for different keys, but then it sounds kind of funky - sort of sloppy and mushy. Tuning up snaps the A strings. What do you recommend?

There are a couple of options:

1. using a capo allows you to still use the drone strings without re-tuning while changing keys

2. another, is to learn to play out of closed positions...this still gives you the ability to select your drone strings while playing chord melody solos. I've thought of having two different size/shape dulcimers, one in D and one in, maybe, G or C since we play out of those keys most often. What about a movable bridge? Is there a dulcimer-like instrument set up that way? I love the sound of the dulcimer in our music, especially the Gaelic instrumental pieces, and would like to become as versatile as possible with it. A capo will solve this problem by allowing you to play in different keys without further tuning.

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999

Mickey, All the dulcimers on you web site that I saw were 4 string. I saw some 3 string at a local arts and crafts show last week. Explain if you would the difference (other than one string) in playing and learning to play a 3 or 4 string. Thanks, Russ D.

Hello Russ, The string arrangement for the 3 string is the same as for the 4 string...only the 4 string offers an extra chorus string on what is called the "melody" string/s (the string/s fretted most when playing a melody). The approach to playing both the 3 string and the 4 string is exactly the same. Therefore, any tune you would learn on one is directly applicable to the other. Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999

Hi Mickey, Thanks for your quick response. I think I'll order one or the other, but have a question. I really like the look of the Walnut, but have heard the Cherry has a much better sound. Is there really that much difference with the sound over time? and which do you recommend?

Hello Bill, The sound of the solid cherry is slightly brighter and slightly louder...mostly inaudible to the average listener. Many serious dulcimer players prefer the traditional sweeter tone of the solid walnut. A dulcimer sound is supposed to be light and delicate...so a lot is up to the artist/player and what he/she is trying to achieve in tonality.

I, personally, prefer the solid cherry for both looks and tonality...I like a lighter appearance in the wood tones and a brighter presence in audio tones. Again, this is subjective and up to the artist/player.

Hope this helps...Let me know if you have further questions...Mickey

Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999

Hi, Could you tell me the difference between a mountain dulcimer and an Applachian Dulcimer? Your instruments are beautiful.

Thanks, Rachael

Hello Rachael, The Appalachian dulcimer is a mountain dulcimer...the two main categories of dulcimers consist of:

1. Mountain Dulcimer: is played on the lap with a pick and can be noted traditionally with a noter or noted with fingers for chording and single notes...

2. Hammered Dulcimer: is played on a stand or table with hammers...usually two wooden sticks which strike the strings creating a harpsichord effect...

Hope this helps...Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999

Hi! I am a left handed West Virginian. Can I learn to play a regular dulcimer or do I need one that's just for southpaws. I am tired of swimming upstream with instruments, appliances, sports equipment, and etc. that are for righthanders, so although I am VERY, VERY tempted to bid on your dulcimer (item # 104463347), I thought I'd write and ask first. I sure hope the dulcimer is a nondiscriminatory musical instrument! Thanks so much! Starspangle

Hello, The mountain dulcimer is designed so that it can be completely strung left-handed or right-handed. It only requires the nut to be reversed. Since there's no pickguard, the instrument doesn't have to be customized to be played left handed. I'm also a southpaw who ended up joining the northern forces since it's a right-handed world. Mickey Cochran

Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1999

Hello Carolyn,

In answer to your questions:

I have a question about sound holes in dulcimers. Do they affect the volume or tone of the instrument?

On a dulcimer, the tone difference would be inaudible unless the soundholes are very large...and even then, the tone difference would be relatively subtle.

And what is the difference between a "warm" tone and a "sweet" tone?

These two terms are used interchangeably and only have a small difference in nuance. A warm tone would mean more of a dark tone...whereas, a sweet tone has no harsh overtones whatsoever and offers more softness.

I've played various dulcimers during the last month, so I know the tones can range from "bright and light" to "sweet" to "hair-curling twangy." How would you describe the difference between the sound of the Folkcraft solid wood models and the Appalachian Dulcimer from The Dulcimer Factory?

The Folkcraft dulcimers are undoubtedly louder and certainly more resonant. Additionally, because the Folkcraft is solid wood, over time, the solid wood instrument will offer a more seasoned tone over the years. The Appalachian offers more of a light, softer tone.

(I have more years experience than I care to admit to playing the piano--I'll probably be able to understand how you describe the tone differences!)

I hope so, considering your questions were very subjective...and open for interpretation. Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999

I am attracted to the idea of playing the dulcimer. I play guitar and harmonica, but would like to start on another instrument. Please explain the dulcimer to me and the type of music played on it (i.e., rhythm or lead). Also, I believe in purchasing a quality instrument. What do you recommend? Thanks, Sam Cooper

Hi Sam, Nice to hear from you...The dulcimer is one of the easiest instruments to learn to play...if you've already played guitar, then you'll find yourself playing melodies on a dulcimer within minutes. I've found the mountain dulcimer to be very addictive.

The mountain dulcimer can be played both as a lead instrument or a rhythm instrument. Chording or lead lines are easily accomplished since the tuning of a dulcimer is an open chord.

There are many types of music played on the dulcimer...the most common being Appalachian folk music, fiddle tunes, bluegrass, and ballads.

I personally would recommend the Folkcraft hourglass design...these are made with solid woods and offer tremendous tone. Additionally, you never lose your investment since over time, they will go up in value...Mickey

Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999

Dear Sirs: My wife gave me one of The Dulcimer Factory Appalachian Dulcimers as a present. It is one of those with the traditional 3 heart shape sound holes. I have been greatly enjoying it but have one question...

The action is a little higher than is comfortable for me. I am not a skilled repairer of instruments and did not want to start messing around with the only nut and bridge that I had. The instrument shops around here do not have nuts and bridges for dulcimers and the web site for the dulcimer factory seems to be down. Do you suggest that I try to constuct my own or can they be ordered from your web site? I would appreciate anything you could tell me. I can see myself ending up making dulcimers one of these days!

By the way, that Folkcraft FSH-W&CH looks like a nice piece of work. If you have any catalogs and price lists, I would like a look at them. The area around Raleigh is just barely starting to appreciate dulcimers and the heritage they bring to mind. Thank you, Mike Wilson

Hi Mike, Your Appalachian, made by the Dulcimer Factory, has what is called a "zero fret". Because of this, your action can only be adjusted by the bridge. You do not have to purchase a new bridge to lower an action...now, if you were trying to raise the action, you would either have to shimmy it or, I recommend a new bridge so you have one piece transmitting the vibration directly to the soundboard.

Now to lower your action requires filing where the string meets the bridge. Be very careful since it only would require approx. 1/32" to see a difference. Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999

Here's a question for your FAQ, and one I would like to know as well --

I've always been curious about dulcimers, and I think I'd like to buy one, but there are so many to choose from! Different shapes, hammered, etc -- what are the differences between them?

Thanks for offering your question...it's valid and would require an extensive answer to be thorough.

Let us see how we can approach this question in outline format:

I. Mountain Dulcimer

A. Mountain dulcimers are normally played on the lap and depend on a drone as they are played. They almost sound like bagpipes without the whine. They can be played by fretting traditionally with a noter (a stick that presses down on the fretboard) or fretted with fingers (which allows you to play chords as you strum).

B. Shapes

a. Hourglass

This is the traditional shape...

b. Teardrop

This is a more modern shape and seems to offer more volume than the hourglass shape.

c. Backpacker

For portability...

C. Woods

a. Solid Cherry

b. Solid Walnut

c. Birch Veneer A veneer allows more affordability.

d. Spruce Most tops are made from spruce while the back and sides would be made from other woods.

e. Maple

f. Mahogany

D. Playing Approaches

a. Strummed with a pick Creates a drone as the melody is usually fretted on one string.

b. Fingerpicked Adds bass lines as melody lines are played (no drone)

II. Hammered Dulcimer

A. Played on a stand or table.

B. Uses Hammers that tap the strings making more of a harpsichord sound.

C. Sizes

a. Smaller Less strings and limited to only a few keys...Diatonic

b. Larger More strings and not limited to any keys...Chromatic

Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999

Found you on the Net this evening! Very pleasant friendly page. Now! Dumb question.................can a left handed person use instruction books to play the dulcimer without "mirroring"? Mom had to teach me to tie my shoes and to knit in this way. This "catch" has never been resolved for my desire to learn the dulcimer..............thanks, Cadie

Hi Cadie, Because most of the instruction books are written in a tablature system, you'll find it very easy to learn to play. For instance, when a numeral comes up on the tab music, you know to count from the nut (at the peghead) towards the strum well (where you pick the string). Whether you're playing right handed or left handed would be irrelevant. Another advantage to being a left hander on a dulcimer, you can string the dulcimer for left handers or right handers without having to physically alter the instrument. For instance, on guitar, you have a pick guard that wouldn't look right if strung for left hand playing and would no longer be functional. Hope this helps...Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999

Hi again, Dumb question #2 Is stringing the instrument done by adjusting the frets or is it "strung" for a lefty prior to use? Thanks for your patience with these questions...............Another advantage to being a left hander on a dulcimer, you can string the dulcimer for left handers or right handers without having to physically alter the instrument Cadie

All that would be necessary is to reverse the string arrangement and cut new notches in the nut to accommodate the new arrangement of strings. This would depend on whether it's a 6-string or a 4-string. Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999

HI IM INTERESTED IN BIDDING ON THE DULCIMER YOU HAVE FOR SALE. IM NEW AT THIS AND WOULD LIKE TO GET ONE AND TAKE LESSONS ON PLAYING IT. I MIGHT BE ABLE TO LEARN MYSELF BUT I DOUBT IT. IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD LOOK FOR WHEN LOOKING FOR ONE TO LEARN ON? ANY INFO WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED THANKS BOOT5

Hi, There are a few factors that you should consider before making your purchase:

1. Budget: There are a lot of well-made dulcimers on the market that offer quality for minimal cost. Some of these include veneer dulcimers (not made of solid wood) that offer great playability and excellent intonation. Be carefull about buying a dulcimer just because it's cheap; these can be more frustrating and discouraging to learn on than the effort to lay out the money for them.

My recommendation for a low-priced, high quality student model would be the Hill Country (Dulcimer Factory) models.

2. Playability: Only purchase a dulcimer with a nice fast action and one that is not warped. Be carefull about buying used; you never know why the seller is turning it over. If the dulcimer has structural flaws, it may not be worth putting the money into it to have it repaired. A warped neck for instance can be difficult to repair and truly make it impossible to learn on. If you buy a new dulcimer, you at least have a warranty so that you won't have to pour more money into it if something goes wrong within thwarranty period.

3. 4-string or 6-string: Since you're just starting out, I'd recommend the 4-string dulcimer. When learning chords, the 6-string may pose a little difficulty due to the extra strings necessary to fret....

4. Learning Materials: The way to go is to start out with a good beginning instructional video. This way you can visually see how the dulcimer is held and gain proper positioning so that you do not develop any bad habits.

5. Tuners: I also recommend an electronic tuner so that you'll always sound in tune even when practicing. I've found that if you have the mountain dulcimer in tune, that you just can't hit a sour note. Even a beginner will sound professional simply by strumming an in-tune dulcimer.

Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey Cochran

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999

Greetings Again, In answer to your follow-up questions: First we want to thank you for answering our questions so quickly. We have just a few more questions to ask if you don't mind. What is the difference between the tear drop shape versus the hour glass shape?

Essentially, only the body style differs...the tone is louder on the teardrops we have in stock as compared to the hourglass. Now, it's possible to find hourglass shape models that are louder, but they're usually more expensive...the Folkcraft FSH solid Cherry Hourglass offers a tremendous volume along with a classic dulcimer tone.

Do they have different qualities of sound or is it because of where it was built?

They definitely have different qualities of tone...it's usually a matter of personal taste of the player and what they're looking for in tonality.

Also what is the difference between a veneer and a solid wood construction?

The veneer models are much cheaper in cost than a solid wood model. The solid wood models usually increase in value over the years. Even so, the veneer is a great entry-level model that offers affordability for those who want to try out dulcimer playing without an expensive initial outlay.

And now to show our real stupidity, what is a fret?

A fret is the metal strip that divides up a neck and allows the string to play a given note. By pushing down the string behind the fret, the string itself is shortened in length giving it a designated note determined by the fret placement.

I am 52 years old and do not play any instrument but for some reason this instrument has always intrigued me. What woods should I be looking for?

Choice of wood would be a personal preference. Are you looking for volume, softness of tone, or projection? All of these factors would predetermine which type of wood you would want your dulcimer to be made from.

Let me know if I can assist you further...

Mickey Cochran

Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999

I am very interested in purchasing a dulcimer but not real educated on what to look for. Do you have any information on where to obtain information concerning dulcimers? I am located in Ohio and want to know about wood types, 4 string versus 6 string, tone quality, etc. and maintenance and upkeep. Also very very easy books to learn with.

Thanks for allowing us the opportunity to enlighten you...

Dulcimers essentially fall into 2 categories:

1. The Mountain Dulcimer

This type of dulcimer is played normally on the lap and leans toward appalachian folk music. The tonality leans toward a drone and sounds similar to a Bagpipe without the whine.

2. The Hammerd Dulcimer

This type is played on a table or stand with 2 hammers and sounds like a cascading waterfall. Fast fiddle tunes come off very nice on the hammered dulcimer...celtic music also comes off well.

Wood Types

Dulcimers come in many types of wood such as: walnut, cherry, spruce, etc. The woods used do affect the tonality of the dulcimer. For instance a solid walnut dulcimer will have a mellower tone than a spruce top dulcimer.

4 string versus 6 string:

These are mountain dulcimers and usually are tuned identical with the extra 2 strings as choruses tuned in unison with its partner string.

Tone Quality:

Can vary depending on who crafted the instrument and what types of wood are used in the construction.

Maintenance and Upkeep:

Maintenance/Upkeep usually only involves taking care of the instrument by protecting it from the elements, having a case to prevent damage in transport, using a friendly polish designed for music instruments and making sure that you're not using strings that are not designed for the dulcimer (heavy gauge strings that can add too much stress to the instrument).

Let me know if I can assist you further...

Mickey Cochran

For further info on dulcimers, you might consider our Dulcimer Beginners Package located in our Books/Videos section.