Subject: Searching for the Right Guitar
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 12:48:06 -0500
Dear Mickey:
Greetings Richard,
I'm glad to assist if I can:
...I figured I would give you a shout. Perhaps the best thing I can do is describe how I play and hope that you can match me up with the best acoustic guitar choice. So here goes:
Type of music: Primarily contemporary folk and folk/rock singer-songwriters. Musicans I would like to emulate include: Patty Larkin, Michael Hedges, John Gorka, David Wilcox, Joan Armatrading, James Taylor, John Prine, CSN and John Martyn. I am primarily a finger picker, but would like to also learn other styles including flat picking. I also play with a lot of open tunings.
I, too, love Michael Hedges...his playing was transcendental. In assessing the line-up of artists you've listed, and their approach to guitar, you'll most definitely want a very responsive acoustic guitar that would lend itself to a variety of mediums...both fingerstyle and flatpicking. I, too, play many open tunings...and love a guitar that resonates in open G. One of my favorite artists, and a big influence on my playing, is Jorma Kaukonen of Hot Tuna fame. His acoustic guitar of choice was an older Gibson J model.
Patty Larkin's main guitars are a Martin D-18 and a 1993 Olson SJ Cutaway.
Michael Hedges main guitars are a Martin D-28 and a Lowdon, as well as his Dyer Harp guitar.
David Wilcox's main guitar is an SJ with a cedar top
James Taylor's main guitar is an Olson SJ guitar
John Prine played a Martin
Stephen Stills' main guitars were Martins...there's even a signature model in his name today...
I'm not too sure about John Gorka nor John Martyn (who truly had an interesting musical career)...
It appears that most of the artists you've chosen play an Olson...
Type of sound: I like a sweet clear full sound, without it being overpowering - warm balance without being too bright or crisp. I would like a guitar that has extremely accurate sound reproduction in terms of staying in tune. Have always used light weight silk 'n steel strings.
Yes, I too like a balance tone...from bass to treble and no loss of tone when playing in the upper register. I currently play a Breedlove and a Martin M-38. The thinner body on my Martin seems to lend itself well to a balanced tonal range. Unfotunately, the intonation is off and seems to change depending on the gauge of strings used. The Breedlove is also well balanced...since the Breedlove was recently built, the intonation is right on...my Martin dates from the early '70s...
Architectural/Design Preferences: I have large fingers, so preference is not to have a neck that is extremely thin across the top. At same time, do like a thin neck in terms of front to back so that I can easily thumb over the top. Like the concept of a cut-away, as it opens up easily accessible additional play areas, but not attached to that feature. Also, my preference is toward a simple looking design (no fancy inlay or fancy pick guard) and also have a preference toward a darker top (similar to the 000-15 mahogany topped Martin guitars).
Yes...I like a wide fingerboard with a thin neck...
Electronics: Would like to be able to record my music, so preference would be to have a built-in pick-up so that I do not have to have one added at a latter date. Pick-up would be used for recording rather than plugging into an amp if that makes any difference.
My suggestion here would be to consider a combination mini-mic and piezo...or saddle pick-up such as a Blender...this gives you the best of all worlds for choosing the right tonal color at the right time.
Price Range: Would prefer to stay under $1,500.00 (substantially less if I can) but will explore other options if that is your recommendation to meet my needs. Am looking for a guitar that I can have and play for years so am not looking for an instrument that I will need to upgrade in the near future. Also, would need to obtain a hard case so that I can travel with my guitar, so please factor that cost in.
In adding in all of your needs within your projected budget, I'd have to suggest that you look for a used Breedlove or Taylor guitar with on-board EQ. Look for a thin-body or smaller body guitar...steer away from the dreadnought models (these would be too boomy on the bass end)...whomever you do decide to purchase through, make sure that they inspect the guitar for any structural problems and that they will stand behind it with some kind of warranty.
Ultimately, to get every feature you're looking for in one guitar, it would be best to have one custom built. Unfortunately, this can become quite costly.
Finding a used lefty with all of the features you're looking for, can be quite challenging (as you probably can already attest to)...
We do have some very nice used Taylors and Breedloves...however, they are all right-handed models.
Breedlove would be more than accommodating on building a left-handed model to fit your needs. I believe this cost would be from 2000.00-2500.00 for one of their S models...You might also contact Taylor to see if they can provide any options...one other possibility would be a custom Martin.
Let me know if I can ever assist you further in your research efforts.
Mickey
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 22:40:54 -0600
Hello...
My name is jason and I am about to make a rather substantial purchase in my life...I've played guitar for about 4/5 years now, and I am to the point where I am no longer just playing...my fingers and hands are now allowing ME to control the instrument. Thus, I finally am finding my "niche," which happens to be a combo of jazz and bluegrass (I suppose a lot of people now call this "newgrass").
Anyway, I'm about to buy my new axe. Originally I intended to find an old D28. But that was til I started playing some of the guitars made out there by some of the small luthiers. I just played a Huss and Dalton the other day...man was that an exquisite axe. I've played some old D28's (I just played a 63 last night), but I just think the "modern" guitars are just more playable and user-friendly than their old counterparts. Plus, you never know where the old instrument has been...
Any help would be appreciated...
Thanks.
jason.
Hi Jason...
I'd love to assist if I can:
My question(s) (finally) are the following:
1. Should I go ahead and hold out for that old D28?
I feel that the modern guitars are certainly more playable...unfortunately, I haven't heard one to date that sounds like an old D-28.
2. What do you think about some of the small luthiers out there (like Huss and Dalton)?
I'm not too sure on the Huss and Dalton...never played any of them...now there are plenty of other manufacturers such as Taylor and Breedlove that offer a tremendous guitar.
3. Are there any other luthiers I should be looking at before I buy my new axe (other than Santa Cruz, Bourgeois, Taylor, Breedlove, Dudenbostel, Collings, etc.)?
I guess I answered the last question before reading forward...you know, I personally would look for an older Taylor or Martin for the guitar of my dreams. I currently own both a Martin and a Taylor...both of them are older models...my Martin is an M-38 from the early 70s...I haven't played anything that compares to it both in tone and playability. The drawbacks to purchasing a used guitar is not knowin how much work may have to be performed...many vintage guitars not only cost an enormous amount, but usually need some kind of luthiery work which can easily run into the hundreds. Hence, the advantage of buying new from a reputable company that knows what they're shipping out. Everything that leaves our shop, both new and old, is gone over thoroughly to ensure that it is completely playable and in proper working order. For a new guitar, at the high end, we also represent Stelling and Breedlove. Now, if you're looking for an affordable dreadnaught, with a solid top, my recommendation would be a Blueridge (Such as the BR-6S)....we get plenty of used guitars in...you only need to email me upon deciding what model you're looking for to be included on our want list... Hope this helps.
Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 23:41:32 -0600
Hello,
I've been doing extensive research on different guitar manufacturers to get
an idea of the best one for me. There are several guitars in my house, but
all are 'full size' and I am a smaller person. I have a hard time getting my
right arm comfortably over the body of the guitar to strum or pick, and end
up leaning back and holding the instrument at a bad angle. I know there are
smaller bodied guitars out there, but I don't want to opt for one that is
too much a beginner's, or child's model. I would like nice sound and to make
this an investment that will stay with me as I improve. I played for 16
years, but had to stop for about 10 years due to a hand injury. I am trying
to 're-learn' now. The guitar I played then was a smaller body, and an
upgrade from my beginner's model, but I cannot recall the make or model.
Do you have any recommendations for smaller bodied models that would fit
into this category?
I am also learning the mando and banjo and have been working with a Kentucky
mando (borrowed). I have owned the banjo for about 10 years and am just
getting around to learning. I have recently discovered bluegrass playing at
a festival, and the playing of a friend keeps me motivated. I am excited
about learning now. She's in the market for a new Kentucky and I'll be
coming to you for this gift I will get her for being so supportive of my
beginning steps in these new instruments.
Thank you for your assistance and support - I LOVE your site!
Jo
Hello Jo,
Thanks again for the kind words regarding our website!
We do carry the smaller bodied guitars which we call Parlor-Style Guitars. These are great for those who have smaller hands and arms...Many standard-sized guitars are ridiculously large for many who find them next to impossible to play.
Our parlor-style guitar is a professional model with a solid spruce top...The Triolian Acoustic Guitar. I've enclosed an image for you to check out so you can see how really nice these guitars look...they also are far easier to play than a full-size since the neck is scaled down slightly along with the body.
Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000
For finger-picking Delta Blues and other country blues music, everyone says the smaller body guitars (OM or Grand Concert) is the way to go. They also lean toward mahogany over rosewood. What is your expert opinion?
The smaller bodied guitars do offer more of a trebly, nasal quality (and, usually are well-balanced) that can be contributory to an authentic blues sound. I, personally, prefer a balanced louder guitar with more bottom end than the average small-bodied guitar. I do own an M-38 early 70s model that is the best of all worlds: loud, with a pure balance between the treble and bass. It never reverberates such as larger dreadnaught size guitars can sometimes do...Mine has Indian Rosewood back and sides with a solid spruce top...it's been played many years so is well broken in...ultimately, which way to go should be determined by your own personal preference. From an artist's perspective, and as it should be, we all have our own musical roads to travel which adds to the diversity of music...even in an effort to interpret a traditional style, you'll want to add yourself to the style you're pursuing. Art is always going through an evolutionary process, and remains timeless, as long it never stagnates.
Date: 8 April 1999
I saw your auction on eBay for the dreadnaught size guitar. I'm new to guitars, so what does dreadnaught mean? Bruce
Hi Bruce, The dreadnaught term was made famous with the Martin acoustic guitar line. The D-18, D-28 and D-35 are all Martin dreadnaughts. These are the industry standard for acoustic guitar design. Most acoustic guitars are dreadnaught in design...this term denotes the size of the guitar.
Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey Cochran
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999
Hi-I ran across your web site this morning while looking for information on wood types best suited for my playing style. But first, let me tell you it's refreshing to see a site with your acoustic philosophy. I couldn't agree more! I'm the quiet kind of player who loves to fingerpick in the calmness of my own home. I am currently playing a Martin 000-1 mahogany (laminated sides) which has a nice sound and feel. But, I'm ready to move up to a totally solid wood guitar in the 000 or OM style. I would very much value your input on the subject. I'm bookmarking your address, so I'll be in touch again in the future. Thanks! Mark
Hi Mark, I also have been studying acoustic fingerstyle guitar for many years. I've found the large auditorium syle guitars to lend themselves very well to fingerstyle. Another guitar you might consider made by Martin is the M-38. This guitar has an incomparable balance between treble and bass. Some of my personal influences as a fingerstyle guitarist include: Leo Kottke, Marcel Dadi, John Fahey, and Peter Lang. Let me know if there's anything you'd like to see in lessons, within this idiom, on the Folk of the Wood website. Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999
One question that I have not been able to find an answer to in all my internet endeavors is......What makes a good acoustic guitar (other than price)? I am interested in purchasing one for the first time and being self taught, along with the aid of books. Unfortunately I would like to get the guitar before the books but am unable to find information pertaining to types of guitars.
There has to be a difference other than style and price. Please help me with any information you may have. Thanks a bunch, Melissa
Hi Melissa! Thanks for your enquiry....I'm glad to be of assistance.
What makes a good acoustic guitar:
1. Playability: It's essential for the guitar to be easy to play...such as a nice action. Action refers to the height of the strings off of the fingerboard. If the guitar has a nice action, then it doesn't require a lot of stress to press the string down behind the fret and get a clear tone. If the action is high, it becomes difficult to play with ease.
2. Tonal Quality: Tonal quality is critical for a "good acoustic guitar". Most imports are made out of plywood and will never season to a good tone. There are some imports that offer solid woods at a reasonable price: $300.00 +. These imports have the potential to sound as good as a native solid wood acoustic guitar that can run into the thousands in cost.
3. Aesthetic Appeal: This is not critical for a "good acoustic guitar" but can be important in that you have to look at it all day as you practice. Additionally, when starting out, your playing may not impress your friends, but your guitar may look so good that they'll think you're professional.
4. Quality Craftsmanship: This can be contributory to both tonal quality and aesthetic appeal. You don't want to purchase a guitar that was sloppily put together...overspray on the finish, glue outside of joints, etc.
Let me know if you have any more specific questions...Mickey
Question: What is the difference between a dreadnaught and a concert size guitar? Which is better for bluegrass style picking? Which is better for fingerpicking?
A dreadnaught has been made popular through the original design that Martin introduced. You'll find that the dreadnaught is the guitar size of choice amongst bluegrassers and flatpickers. It lends itself well to flatpicking due to its booming bass characteristic. A bluegrass band can depend on it to fill in the right middle and lows complementing the other trebly instruments: fiddle, banjo and mando.
A concert size guitar, or auditorium, has a very large bought lending itself to a larger sound...not necessarily louder. Usually, a concert size guitar is very well balanced from bass to treble and is played effectively in the fingerstyle medium. I wouldn't recommend a concert size guitar for flatpicking...although, it can offer a lot within this medium, it's not traditionally done and very seldom seen within the bluegrass flatpicking genre. Thanks for offering such valid questions...we will add them to our website...Mickey
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999
Hi! I have a Taylor guitar catalog, and I really like the way a maple guitar looks. However, I have heard that rosewood is a better tonewood for a bluegrass guitar. I live in a place where there are no dealers that carry Taylors, so IF I ever come across one, which of the two woods-maple or rosewood- would you recommend for bluegrass? Or, does it really matter which of these tonewoods I should use? Also, do you recommend a dreadnaught or can I use a guitar with a smaller waist? Thanks! Ben
Hi Ben, Thanks for your contribution to our FAQ database...There are two woods for guitar back and sides that work well within the Bluegrass idiom:
1. Mahogany ex. Martin D-18
2. Rosewood ex. Martin D-28 or D-35 or D-45
And, if you're serious about your bluegrass, I'd recommend only a dreadnaught. Sure, you could play bluegrass with a different acoustic body style, but it wouldn't be characteristic of the idiom. I honestly believe that there are 2 guitar body/wood styles that set the standard: D-18 and the D-28. There are many brands that imitate these body styles well--imports and domestics.
The maple back and sides look great but do not offer the bluegrass characteristic tone. Now, on a f-hole mandolin or a fiddle, I believe the maple back and sides are the standard for bluegrass.
Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey
Email: info@folkofthewood.com
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