---

---

Oct 7, 2009, at 9:01 AM

Your Name: P. Sullivan
Subject: Mandolin

Message: I am overwhelmed! I love your site and have been going over the many post. I have a new interest in learning the Mandolin. I am absolutely clueless as to what I need. I am trying not to spend more than $500 if possible. I have been looking at the Michael Kelly, Morgan Monroe, and Kentucky. Am I missing any other brands that might be of value in this price range. I understand you get what you pay for, but the choices in this range are unreal. I am interested in playing bluegrass, and possible celtic. Thank you in advance. Keep up the great work.

Greetings ... and thanks for the kind words regarding our website.

I believe the brands you named are really the best low to medium priced mandolins available ... there are other brands available within this same price range, however, they are all mostly relative anyway at this price range ... and the 3 you mentioned have set the standard.

For both bluegrass and celtic, in one mandolin, you'll have to stick with an f-hole mandolin ... maybe even an f-style. Although, the f-style will work better for bluegrass, it still serves for celtic. The other side of this is that you could go with a dedicated celtic mandolin, such as an A-style with oval soundhole, only, it will not serve for bluegrass. So your best choice, between the two, and to play both styles sufficiently, would be the f-style (or a-style) with f soundholes.

Most importantly, make sure you have the mandolin properly set up.

All my best,

Mickey Cochran

---

Subject: mandolin purchase
Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 17:23:59 -0500

Hi Mickey!

Greetings,

Let me first join the legions of others that have written before me in saying that your website is simply outstanding! Well done - and the honesty in answering questions without necessarily directing the person to something you sell is to be commended.

Thanks for the inspiring kudos...nice of you to take the time to share your positive views...

I am considering learning to play mandolin. This would be my first foray into music - but everyone's gotta start somewhere, and at 38, this is mine. My biggest concern/priority is ease of learning - I want to keep the level of frustration down, and the excitement up as much as possible. You've commented that the key is making sure the instrument is properly setup, and I've read that you folks do this with instruments you sell. But, beyond the setup itself, what instrument would you recommend someone like me learn on? I'll give you my particulars...

I'll do my best to assist you in narrowing your choice...there are too many great values to choose from as it stands...

I like the idea of being able to try my hand at folk, bluegrass, jazz, and blues mandolin. I'm sorry about this - as I know the style of mandolin you might recommend plays into this, but I have not determined which style I might want to play most. I only know I won't want to play Celtic music (I like it - but have greater interest in the others)

Well, this does help...and at the very least, we can now eliminate oval soundhole and flat style mandolins...

As my first instrument, the perfect sound takes a backseat in priority, but that said, I figure the quality of the sound (I think) will affect my interest in the instrument... so I do want a sound that is pleasing. I like the deeper sounds better than the brighter sounds (I don't know if everyone does or not).

I personally like deeper, bassier tones myself...and, there are a couple of Amercian-made mandolins that are notoriously bright...some imports may also be too bright...

I can see myself spending up to $500 for an instrument... depending on what you might recommend. If I'm successful in learning the instrument (and I plan to be), I could see eventually trading my first instrument in on another (probably more expensive?) model - at that time focusing on style and quality of the sound.

This sounds realistic...my suggestion would be to consider an import archtop with f soundholes....this would be versatile enough to cover most of the styles you've listed...only, do not expect any deepness and richness of tone...these do have decent volume and projection...they always fall short on resonance and deepness of tone. They shine in one way and lack in others...

Within the 500.00 range, there are some decent f style mandos to choose from:
Legacy Solid MK-LSOLID $595.00 $416.50 VS
Kentucky KM-630 KM-630 $649.00 $425.00
Morgan Monroe MMS-1 Deluxe F-Style Laminate MMS-1 $619.00 $429.00
Pricing as of 6/19/04...prices subject to change base on manufacturer price increases...

The KM-630 and the Michael Kelly Legacy offer solid woods...I'm not sure what we have in stock on Kentuckys...we do have the Michael Kelly Solids in stock..and, my suggestion would be to call Tradd @ ...he'd be happy to play one over the phone for you:
http://www.folkofthewood.com/page3992.htm

So, based on this ramble, what might you recommend? The number of instruments out there just boggles the mind (ok... my mind!) When I order it from you - should I remind you how I would like it setup (for a beginner, or is that assumed)?

Yes, we set up all import mandolins with a low action...for ease of playability...unless specified otherwise by the purchaser...

Finally, what else should I be asking that I am not asking at this time? What video/DVD would you recommend (to learn with), and do you sell it too?

My suggestion would be to look for a methodology video/book first...and, after you've established a solid foundation with the basic principles laid out...reinforced by exercises, theory and proper positioning, then you might want to start learning one song after another...this is an A-Z process that takes lots of self-discipline when not studying under the guidance of a competent instructor. Many approach the learning process haphazardly without considering the importance of a solid foundation...and, in doing this, develop habits that impede their playing abilities over the years...which become next to impossible to unlearn at a later date...

I only have one beginner's video that I've put together: "Intro to the Mandolin"...there are plenty of other beginner books and videos available through Mel Bay @ http://www.melbay.com

Be sure to check out our online lessons section to gain an orientation to mandolin fundamentals:

http://www.folkofthewood.com/page3.htm

Hope this helps, Mickey


I really appreciate any help you might be able to give.

chris

---

Subject: Mandolins
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 18:26:13 -0800

I would like to know what you would recommend for a beginner just starting out? I have been looking at all of the Mandolins you carry. I dont want to spend more then say $200 to maybe $400, since I am a beginner. I would also like to know is the Mandolin easy to learn. Your video samples make it look easy. I am also learning how to play the guitar.

Thank you for your response,

Susan McConnachie

Greetings Susan,

For beginning mandolin, there are many decent choices: Morgan Monroe and Kentucky would be two great choices...

Most importantly, the set-up is critical on these mandolins...to ensure, that you as a beginner, are not discouraged from practicing due to a poorly set-up mandolin.

I believe the mandolin is one of the easiest instruments to learn...when first starting out, I always recommend having an electronic tuner...once you learn to properly tune your mandolin, you can then learn some simple chords and be playing within a week or two...most other instruments require more mechanics such as fingerstyle guitar or banjo...

Just set small goals, and I believe you truly will enjoy learning the mandolin...

Mickey

---

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 16:29:59 EST
Subject: lowest price LOUD mandolins

What are your lowest price & LOUDEST mandolins... I realize
they can vary
to each individual mando... can be A or F... (MADE IN AMERICA)

appreciate your opinion...

Mark Davenport previous customer

Greetings Mark,

Glad to assist:

There are different degrees of loudness in assessing a
mandolin...some have more presence, some have better projection and
some have more aliveness (resonance)...so the variables are immense.

I suspect you're looking for power and punch in a mandolin...and if
so, you'll want an archtop, gloss finish mandolin...the lowest priced
models, with punch, or bark, would be the Michael Kelly line-up...and
a few of the Morgan Monroes...

However, it sounds like you're looking for an American-made
mando...and, in this case, for volume and punch, the Gibson F-9 or
A-9 may fill your needs...with the matte finish on these, they're
powerfully alive...and since they offer maple back and sides, they
make for a solid bluegrass mandolin...then there's the Breedlove
Quartz models...these are nicely made...and are not as rough in
construction as the 9 series made by Gibson...only, they sound very
bright along with their loudness...another nicely made mandolin would
be the Weber Yellowstone...I believe it's the best value for a
high-end F-style being made today...no compromises on it that I can
find.

Hope something here helps...

Mickey

---

Subject: beginning mandolin
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 21:25:06 -0600

Greetings Richard,

Glad to assist:

you have, by far, the most useful acoustic instrument site on the net. i am a 62 year old retired trial lawyer and it takes a lot to impress me.

Wow! I bet you have some stories to tell...and, thanks so much for your generous accolades.

at my age, it's hard to learn any instrument and i have been playing around with the guitar for about 5 years. i am now taken with the mandolin family. i thought i would start with the mandolin. i won't be playing with anybody and don't particularly like bluegrass. i've read all of your stuff and looked at specs on several and i thing i want the warmth of mahogany with a solid spruce top on a beer budget. the epiphone mm-30 seems to fit the bill at a budget price, but i see that they are discontinuing that model. is there a problem with it? 

Nope...the MM-30 is a fine mandolin...great to learn on and an excellent value. However, it's the same quality as many different brands currently being made in Korea...it's not necessarily better nor worse than any other...in fact, I wouldn't be surprised if they're all made at the same factory in Korea...

Hence, my suggestion is to find the look and body style you want...and, as long as it's set up properly, from whomever you decide to purchase through, you'll have a decent mandolin to learn on...there will be compromises with imports, such as finish anomalies and rough construction...but they're still functional and they're great for the price. If you decide to purchase one through us, you'll also have your 100% trade-up option...allowing you to retain your initial investment and apply it towards a Hyalite later...I personally own two Webers!

Hope something here helps, Mickey

(i really want a weber hyalite, but can't justify the money right now)

---

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 12:53:17 -0900

Mickey,
More mando shopping questions...I'm used to playing my Martin bent-top (oval hole), which has 20 frets. Today I tried a Kentucky KM-380 and 350, which have an extended fretboard (29 frets?). I found that the extended frets get in the way of my pick - there is less space between the bridge and the fretboard. I suppose I could probably get used to it. Have others found this to be a problem?

Yes, many others, including myself, have found the extended fingerboard cumbersome...my flatpick hits it whenever I look for a softer tone played towards the fingerboard...most of the time, I play closer to the bridge and do not find the extended fingerboard a problem. Most players, somehow, seem to avoid hitting the extended fingerboard with their flatpicks. In some ways the extended fingerboard can be contributory rhythmically...I've heard some players that will play a lead above the extended fingerboard and seem to get more of a clicking rhythm going with the lead...kind of nice really...

I am interested in the Breedlove Quartz OF, but have not had an opportunity to play one. How would this compare to a Kentucky KM-350/380, with respect to craftsmanship, versatility, playability, tone, volume, projection, resonance?

The Quartz OF is American-made and offers an amazing clarity of tone...very well-balanced with lots of crispness in tone...it's also far more resonant than any Kentucky due to the natural matte finish...construction is also impeccable on a Breedlove as compared to any import available today...

Finally, is there any benefit, other than aesthetic, to flame maple (as opposed to normal maple) in the back, sides, and neck?

Nope...it's just for looks; flamed maple doesn't seem to affect tonal quality whatsoever.

Hope something here helps...Mickey


Thank you!

Joe

---

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 13:02:41 -0800

Mickey,

Great info. Although I mentioned that I will be chopping some chords, I think higher priorities are volume and projection (so I don't always have to play as loud as I can, and still be heard), but also a full (as opposed to thin/tinny) sound for sweet melodies.

I understand that F-style mandos are more complex in their construction, and therefore more expensive than a comparable A-style. Are there any A-style mandos with f holes that fit what I'm looking for?

Most definitely...my main axe is a Breedlove Alpine with F soundholes...and, I can get a decent chop out of it...along with nice volume and definition in tone. I know this may be out of your range...however, it shows that there are possibilities for lower end A's to carry forward the same characteristics.

You recommended the Kentucky KM-700 and KM-750 or a high-end f-style Michael Kelly... What about the used KM-675 (Serial #20022046 - Store #12746) that is listed?

This one would be fine...however, with the Holiday Rush, you might want to call James @ about its availability...or even other used ones not listed to date. James will be there today (Friday).

It sounds like the type of finish (matte vs. gloss) makes a difference in tone - could you explain that a bit?

Yes, the matte finish brings a mandolin alive in resonance...less finish seems to allow the mandolin to vibrate more freely. This is good and bad...it does change the tonal characteristic of a mandolin...more sustain and resonance...however, a gloss finish is the bluegrass standard...and, it's interesting how lower end properties and chops seem to come through on a glossy finish.

Finally, what strings would you recommend to bring out the best qualities in my Martin?

Wow! Each mandolin would have its own properties and qualities from different brands of strings. For an older Martin, you could minimize some of its brighter characteristics by using nickel wound strings...I personally would use GHS Bronze strings for both sustain and brightness. The Martin vintage mandolins I've played have the bent tops...and, they were all very resonant with lots of sustain...they work very well as a solo instrument, or a mandolin to be played along with one or two other instruments...meaning, take advantage of its true characteristics by enhancing these traits with the right choice of strings.

Mickey

---

Subject: mando question
Dear Folk of the wood,

Greetings Joe,

Glad to assist:

The only mandolin I've owned is a Martin A-style (mid 1950's).

These are great flat-style mandolins...offering lots of resonance and sustain. Great for Celtic styles.

I've been playing on and off for 4 years. I play mostly traditional tunes, with a smattering of Irish and bluegrass. Lately I've been playing with a couple guitar players, who tend to drown out my Martin. I'm looking for a new or used mandolin, under $1000, with more volume when I'm playing melody, and which also performs well on (chop) chords.

In this case, an archtop mandolin may serve you well...I'd still hold on to the Martin for special applications...

I live in Anchorage, AK, but have been playing as many mandos as I can find during a vacation in Seattle. Unfortunately, I haven't found a real big variety yet in my price range. So far I have played the following A-styles: Johnson MA-120, Kentucky KM-150S; and the following F-style: Michael Kelly FS-Deluxe. I liked the sound of the Michael Kelly the best.

I can concur with that...the Michael Kelly would be a great choice for most louder jam sessions...

How is the quality (construction and sound) of F-style Johnson and Kentucky mandolins?

Some of the higher end Kentuckys have come around...especially the KM-700 and KM-750...I'm not too sure about the higher end Johnson F-styles...we haven't received any real reviews on these...the ones that have come through are most definitely a great value.

I like the idea of playing a domestic instrument, but can't afford the ones I've seen so far. Any recommendations?

There are a few domestic mandolins that come close to being quite affordable...for instance, there's the Breedlove Quartz line, the Weber Hyalite or the Rigel A Natural. All having archtops with f soundholes...none of them would really have a bluegrass chop you're looking for though...they all have matte finishes and all are very resonant...they vary in tonal qualities...however, if you're looking for a mandolin to chop chords on, these may fall short. A Weber Yellowstone will have more of a chop quality when comping chords...I believe some of this is attributed to the gloss finishes offered on the higher end...an excellent compromise would be a higher end Kentucky or Michael Kelly...

Also, do you ship to AK? What is the shipping cost?

Yes, we ship to AK...we ship through USPS...and it's mandatory when shipping to AK to ship by two-day priority...and, the shipping costs would be reasonable...in and around 40.00 depending on your zip code.

I read some of your responses to FAQs and need some help with definitions...How would you define the following terms: responsiveness, resonance, projection, and volume?

Responsiveness: the aliveness of the mandolin...loud to the touch...quick to respond after picking a note...etc.
Resonance: how well it vibrates in the hands...the resonating quality of the mandolin...how well a mandolin sustains after playing a note also denotes the resonance...
Projection: how well the mandolin focuses the tone...if standing at a distance while still hearing the mandolin denotes good projection...the ability to slice through a large wall of sound denotes good projection...
Volume: how well the mandolin is heard denotes good volume...a mandolin with good volume should be heard well not only by itself, but within a large band context.

Hope this helps, Mickey

Thank you!

Joe Buckwalter

---

Subject: Flatiron vs. all others
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 21:02:35 -0400

Mickey,

I started playing mandolin at a young age but put it down once I got
married. Several years have past and I am looking for a recommendation on a
great sounding mandolin at a reasonable price. Game fully employed, I can
spend up to $2000? Any recommendations?
I noticed a 1982 A5-1 Carlson Flatiron the other day used for $2000 but it
indicated it had "minor finish checking on the top" and was signed by Steve
Carlson... can you explain this. Thank you.

Justin

Greetings Justin,

You should be able to pick up a lifetime professional mandolin in the 2000.00 range...

A lot would depend on what you hope to achieve with your new mandolin...for instance, what style of music you want to play...if you're looking for a versatile mandolin...or, if you're looking for a mandolin dedicated to one style such as Celtic or Bluegrass...these are the most important factors in deciding on your next mandolin. Other deciding factors may include, but not limited to, aesthetics (overall appearance), craftsmanship, where it's made, whether the body style fits you or the style you hope to play, and so on...

If you want to get back with me on any of these facets, I will do my best to assist you in narrowing your choice...

The 1982 AS-1 signed by Carlson would be very desirable and most definitely held in high esteem by major players...I'm not sure of its current market value...the minor finish checking should not be a concern whatsoever...in many vintage instruments, this checking can be a plus to reveal that it hasn't been refinished. My only suggestion would be to make sure there are no structural flaws and that it does come with some kind of warranty. Additionally, you'll want to make sure that it's set up properly for ease of playability...

Hope this helps...at your disposal, Mickey

---

Date: Sun, 22 Sep 2002 21:24:40 -0700
Subject: Mandolin & Trade In Questions

Mickey:

I have a 1981 Yamaha Grand Concert GC-10A in outstanding condition that I would be interested in trading in for a mandolin.  At least, I think that is what I want.  

I tried several times to learn classical guitar.  I found it a very difficult instrument to learn, I don't have the nails for it and haven't touched it for about 10 years or so.  I recently got the urge to rededicate myself to learning an instrument.  As a matter of fact, I thought I would try a woodwind of some type, but my wife reminded me that they can be awfully loud and obnoxious when one is trying to learn.  This morning I woke up and thought, "What in the world are you thinking?"  "You love the stringed instruments!"  Anyway, I travel a lot and thought a mandolin would be the perfect traveling companion.  At least I think so.  I should add that I am 53 whether that makes a difference or not.

OK, so much for the soap opera of my life :).  

Greetings Tom,

Glad to assist if I can:

Basic questions:

1. I enjoy classical, celtic, smooth jazz, new age, folk, Nickel Creek, the Corrs (couldn't resist a pop reference), and some bluegrass.  What type of instrument should I look for?

A mandolin that would cross over well...there are some mandos that are genre specific such as the flat styles, or the oval hole types...these, of course lending themselves well to Celtic and Old-Time...for a versatile mandolin, look for F soundholes and an archtop...I've found the A-style archtops to work very well...such as the Breedlove Quartz model, the Weber Absaroka or the Rigel A+ Deluxe...

2. What would be a good instrument for a cost-aware beginner?

For the lowest price archtop, with solid woods, along with excellent versatility, you might consider the Morgan Monroe MMS-2...

3. Are lessons important?  Or can I go it alone?

Lessons are important...however, if you cannot find a good mando teacher within your vicinity, you might consider a comprehensive video...one that teaches proper positioning and technique development...stay away from videos that only teach songs...at least until you're comfortable with a proper foundation.

4. One of the bigger concerns I have, is what happens if I don't like playing the instrument?  Can you rent mandolins?

Fortunately, through us, you have a full 100% trade-up policy...this will allow you to try out the mandolin for a month, or even a year, while still being able to trade it back for another type of instrument...this trade-up is like having your money in a bank...you only need to take care of the instrument to ensure that it's still in excellent condition when trading back...you'll retain your entire investment which can then be applied to another discount price...

I appreciate your web site and the obvious time and effort you are putting into your business.

Thanks so much for the kind words...Mickey


Please "reply all."  I have included both a work and home .

Thanks again,

Tom

---

Date: Mon, 27 May 2002 15:37:15 -0700

Dear Mickey,

Greetings Lisa,

I've visited your website several times now and am impressed with your
personal touch. I am a beginning mandolin player in a Klezmer band (think
eastern European, early 20th century) but I'm a lifelong musician (would you
believe oboe?).

Thanks for the kind words...sure, I can believe an oboe player would make a great mando player. I had a theory teacher in college (David Wickes) who was an oboe player. I'll never forget his encouraging words, after I disclosed to him my concern about being a multi-instrumentalist: "You most certainly can play any variety of instruments you wish; all music is relative and what you learn on one instrument can theoretically be applied to another."

I inherited my grandfather's 1923 Washburn mandolin but it
feels delicate and Klezmer is hard and fast. So, I'm thinking about buying
a new instrument but am not sure how to judge what is right for the me and
the music. I will be amplified and already have a stick-on pickup that
plugs into an amp. So I want a strictly acoustic instrument. As a
classical musician, I hope also to learn how to play classical pieces as
well.
Thank you in advance for starting me on the research that will lead me to
just the right instrument.

The style of music predetermines the choice of mandolin...for instance, the choice between body styles and soundhole designs are completely dependent on the style of music you hope to achieve. And, of course, you'll also want to consider what your budget will allow.

So far, you're a candidate for the Breedlove Quartz models as being the most reasonably priced professional made archtop mandolin. When you said that you will be playing hard and fast, you've pretty well canceled out a flat-style mandolin.

If you're looking for an even better value, you might consider our new Morgan Monroe line...again, your main focus would be on an archtop mandolin made with solid woods.

Let me know what further questions you may have...at your disposal, Mickey

---

Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 22:28:44 -0400
Subject: Mandolin question for Mickey

Greetings Stephen,

Glad to assist if I can:

Mickey,

I recently learned of your web site and I have been quite impressed by your care for the customer, knowledge of musical instruments, and genuine love for what you do. Keep up the great work!

Thanks for the kind words!

I've been playing a handmade "F-style" mandolin on and off for about 10 yrs., but recently started to get more serious about my skills and wish to move from an intermediate level to advanced. Since my mando is made of redwood top and mahagony back and sides (all solid woods), I recently decided to look for something in spruce and maple to get a different sound. Not knowing how an oval-holed F4 style mando would sound, I decided to purchase a used Kentucky 850C in mint condition mainly based on curiosity and its killer great looks (and history of good overall quality). It's serial # is 20727. I spoke with Saga and they can't tell me when or where it was made. Can you give me an idea if it was made in Korea, China, or Japan, and when it was made.

I believe this model pre-dates the Korean factory (making it Japanese)...This is only my estimation from a few other references I've read...It's a rare specimen and guaranteed, you really should hold on to it!

Lastly, I plan to purchase an f-holed "F" styled mando in spruce and maple, but can't decide if I wish to have my builder make it for me, or to go with a Kentucky KM1000 or look for a KM850 (to match the 850C). Any suggestions here?

The KM-1000 can be a tremendous value; however, you'll want someone to pick it out for you. They can vary in quality and sound. Be careful about a used purchase for they usually will need some type of set-up work.

Should I try to keep all of my mandolins pretty much the same, or is it okay to keep things mixed up a bit? Ideally, I think that I should have two (three at very most) to cover all genres of music and for jam and recording sessions.

I'd recommend having a few different mandos on hand made with different woods and offering different body styles and soundholes. You would then have a pallette of colors on hand to choose from to accommodate any playing situation that may arise. It's most difficult to find one mando that will do it all well...

For another F model, you might consider a custom Weber Bitterroot with maple back and sides in place of the mahogany woods.

Hope this helps in some way...at your disposal, Mickey

Thanks so much for you time in helping me. Of course, I would turn to your company for any KY mando purchases. You offer a tremendous service and inspiration to all of us players.

Stephen
West Melbourne, FL

---

Subject: Best mandolin value for $1200
Date: Wed, 1 May 2002 09:44:13 -0700

I just bought a 1994 Taylor guitar model 712 with an after market
(excellent) pickup and just sold my Washburn 1982 M-1S-N mandolin with a
Fishman saddle pickup.
I'd like to replace the sold mando for something in the $1200 range.
Do I get an A or F style? What's the difference?
I want a USA made company.
I want it to have a pickup (or can I add a saddle pickup like the Fishman)?
The Fishman saddle pickup actually replaced the original saddle and had a
wire from the saddle to the input (which attached to the main body strap
peg). So the pickup did not affect the inner workings of the body's
acoustics.
Do they still make pickups like this and is the purists choice for going
electric?
I want a full rather than bright sound.

Greetings,

I believe in the price range you're looking, you'll find that you get more for the money in an A model...

The differences between the F and A can be fairly extensive...mainly, two critical factors you're looking at are bracing and the style of music you hope to pursue with your new mandolin.

In the 1200.00 range, you have some very nice domestic mandos available...your main choices would be either the Weber Hyalite or the Breedlove Quartz KF or OF models...

All of these are archtop F soundhole mandos that offer versatility, excellent craftsmanship and a tremendous tone...

For F models, you would be limited to import models...there isn't a domestically made F model that falls in at 1200.00 or less...

I would recommend the the Fishman transducer...or, especially the new McIntyre Feather pick-up designed specifically for mandolin...these are only 149.00 Installed.

I believe we can also offer the Fishman Saddle pick-ups if that's what you would prefer; haven't seen one in quite awhile though...we highly recommend the pick-up to be installed with a permanent jack on the end pin...

For a full sound, you would want to run a pre-amp between the pick-up and the amp/PA...this will reinforce the feed and add to the capability to further manipulate the tone and volume. We have a clip-on belt version made by Fishman available...

Hope the above helps somehow...Mickey

---

Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 01:10:56 -0600
Subject: Mando Question for Mickey

Mickey,

I'm new to your site but am already very impressed! I plan on making a
mando purchase before Christmas and I'm sure Folk of the Wood will play
a major role in that.
First off, I'm new to mando. I've played guitar for years, but have
loved the sound of the mandolin for so long that it's time to buy (it
doesn't hurt that I've been playing my friend's for the last couple
months and he wants it back!!). So here're a couple questions:

I'm mostly interested in bluegrass with flat- and cross-picking styles.
What are the different styles, etc. (i.e. flat top, f-style, f-holes,
round-holes...) and what would be best for me?

Secondly, my wife's grandfather gave me his mando. I don't think it's
incredibly old, and at first glance it's not too impressive. The only
marking of any kind on it is a little sticker seen thru the sounding
hole that says "Gibson Pat. 1836" I don't know if I have a little gem
or (more likely) a piece of junk. Regardless, it would need some work
to get it back into shape and I'd rather buy new. It's an archtop, has
an oval sounding hole, sunburst pattern? (I'm at work and can't remember
too well). Anyway, based on that poor description can you tell me
anything about it or whether it has ANY trade in value at all?

Thanks Mickey, I'm glad I found a site with folks who know mandos!! Sincerely, Joel Peavy

PS The Kentucky KM-630 was looking mighty tasty! Thanks again for your
time.

Greetings Joel,

Glad to assist! Let me know if you have any specific questions about particular models.
If you're interested in bluegrass, then undoubtedly, buy an F-style mandolin with f soundholes and preferably a solid top for the potential seasoning of tone over time...I have both an F-style and an A-style...I use them within different contexts...but, no doubt, the F-style truly fits the bluegrass profile in every way...

Flat top mandos are more specific to certain genres such as Celtic..or playing with one other guitar...this way, the flat style fills in nice when and if the guitar takes lead.

Round-holes again are genre specific and offer more of an open sound lending itself to Celtic and old-time style mando playing.

If your mando is truly a Gibson, then you may have a collectible mandolin...Gibsons without the name on the headstock...and with a tag on the inside, are usually the low-end A models...patents were always dated much earlier than the mandos themselves. Check out our used inventory section...we have a couple of Gibson A-Models that yours may resemble which can give you a starting point. These mandos are usually very sweet sounding, but lack the punch that bluegrass requires. And, the necks are usually bulky, and short, not lending themselves to ease of playability. Even so, they have a decent resell value and you may be able to come out with a nice functional F-style if traded right.

We can assess the value of your Gibson, or potential Gibson, if you want to send it in...or, you might send us some pix. We do our best to give current market value on all trade-ins minus resell costs...below is our standard trade-in process. Mickey

---

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 16:06:20 EDT
Subject: MANDOLIN QUESTION

Hello,

I have a pair of what I suspect are pretty dumb questions. First, when
looking at the specs for the Mid-Missouri line, I saw "bound fingerboard"
listed as an option. I have seen this listed for other models as well. What
is a bound fingerboard? Is it done for aesthetic reasons only, does it help
the durability of the neck/fingerboard or ... ? The second question has to
do w/the availability of mandolin music. I am interested in trying folk and
classical music, but the most I've been able to come up w/for classical
mandolin is Vivaldi and Mozart. Given that the tunings for violin and
mandolin are the same, could I try to adapt some violin pieces to mandolin? Will there be much difficulty (other than trying to duplicate a bowing sound
to mandolin)?

Thanks for any help you can give and a big thanks for your mandolin pages
-they've really been useful.

Richard


Greetings Richard,

A "bound fingerboard" is a fingerboard that includes a plastic binding on the very edges where the fingerboard meets the neck. These are usually white, and sometimes black, and are located on the top and bottom of the neck edge...usually extending from where the body meets the neck and upwards to the peghead.

It's performed for both aesthetic reasons and functionality...the binding truly does look nice and can give the mandolin a complete look. Additionally, the binding can serve as protection from nicks and scratches. ...especially since plastic would be far more dense than wood.

Violin pieces fit superbly on mandolin...you only need to keep in mind the characteristics of the instrument. For instance, if you have a long drawn out note on a violin piece, which is easily accomplished by drawing out the bow, you only need to utilize techniques such as a tremolo to recreate this drawn out note on a mandolin. Since the mandolin and the violin are tuned exactly the same, and therefore offer the same relative tonality, you'll find extensive music for mandolin following the fiddle tradition. The mandolin does sound far more percussive than a violin...and, you can play full chords on a mandolin for back-up to other instruments.

Hope this helps...Mickey

---

Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 11:35:57 -0600

I have always loved mandolin music...I even named my daughter Amanda
Lynne and joked that at least a had A Manda Lynne. A little over three
years ago I purchased a mandolin from the Austin Vintage Guitar Shop in
Austin Texas and decided that I would finally get to learn to play the
mandolin. Well, as soon as I started learning the fingering and working
on scales family circumstances changed and I got side tracked until now.

I came across your site and wondered about upgrading my mandolin. This
is where I would like your direction. The music type I wanted to learn
to play is Early music - Baroque and Renaissance, as well as Celtic and
Scottish if that leads to any specific type of insturment for that
particular sound.

Thanks, Paula Wigington


Greetings Paula,

Nice to hear from you...we'd be glad to assist you with an upgrade.

First and foremost, and since you love Baroque and Renaissance style music, you'd make a great candidate for one of our Mid-Missouri or Weber flat style mandolins.

These mandolins are all solid wood and made in the US...they have a very sweet woody tone with lots of sustain and resonance. I delve into some Baroque myself and found that the flat style mandos really shine through for this genre. Additionally, these mandos are great for Celtic and Scottish tunes. Be sure to check out our video samplers on the Mid-Missouris and the Weber Aspen models...Mickey

---

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 23:08:05 -0600
Subject: Flat-Style vs. Archtop mandolins

Hey,
I have decided to learn to play the mandolin after kicking around the idea for a few years. I have been looking around on the internet, and I'm really partial to the Weber Y2K with f holes (partly because I went to school in Montana and really miss it sometimes!). I would like a good quality instrument that won't break the bank to badly at first. I'm interested in bluegrass, old thyme, and jazz so I guess you could say I need a well rounded instrument. I imagine I'm a ways off from needing an f-style with f holes, so would this be a good choice? Could you tell me the price on a Weber Y2K as well as a hard-shell case? 

I also have an Ovation Applause guitar with a hard-shell case that I would like to trade in. It is about 12 years old but was played very little. I'm just up the road in ALbuquerque, so maybe it would be easier for me to go down there? Ruidoso is a great little town to visit anyway. Lastly, would you happen to know of any mandolin instructors in Albuquerque? I would really like some personal instruction to at least get me started. Thanks for your time!

-Zach DiCicco

Hello Zach,

Weber has discontinued the Y2K with F-Holes...they now only make the Aspen and Y2K with oval soundholes.

Even so, the flat style Y2K model will not work well within a bluegrass setting. The sound will dissipate without any cut-through volume. The standard for bluegrass would be an archtop f-hole style mandolin. Now, for old-time or Celtic the flat-style Y2K model works well...for jazz styles, I'd only recommend an archtop f-hole mandolin. Fast linear playing, such as performed within jazz or bluegrass, comes off very well...this is due to the quick decay which minimizes oscillation of notes. As notes are played quickly, you'll want a quicker decay so that sustain will not create dissonance.

We do accept trades and do our best to give current market value...You're more than welcome to come down and pay us a visit...There used to be a banjo instructor, Wayne Shrubsall, who resided in Albuquerque...he's still there last I heard. You may find him listed in the phone book...give him a call...100% sure he knows of a mando teacher in your vicinity.

What model Applause do you have? What kind of condition is it in? We can pretty much quote you its value without seeing it...Mickey

---

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 01:40:52 -0600

Hi Mickey,

Had a chance to pull down more of your video-sound clips and consider what
I like. I think the oval-hole A style is more my speed, even comparing
your clip of the KM-675 to my vision of things. It sounds more
archtop-punchy than I usually go for in instruments, but it may indeed be
versatile.

I listened to the Aspen and Y2K and graphed out the differences among the
Weber mandolins. The Y2K sounds great to me; more of a singing tone than
the Aspen to my ear through the limited computer system sound. I always
have been partial to mahogany. But I get concerned about the lack of
binding and the chipboard case. And I like the finish on the Absaroka
best. But the detailing on the Bridger. Ah well, the Y2K might be about
right, I suppose. Mix and match is so difficult to pull off!

And the Mid Missouris look pretty good, the mahogany or rosewood ones
probably. Bet the rosewood is warm. No clips yet, so I can't compare the
sound.

Anyway, look over the violins and tell me what you think is fair.

Peace, Steve

Hi Steve,

I'm also envisioning you with the Weber flat-style Oval Soundhole...These are more of what I feel someone who loves violin would play...they have a far sweeter tone along with more sustain than the average archtop F-hole design...It's the same reason more play acoustic roundhole guitars than they play archtop guitars...archtop guitars were utilized in the big band era to cut through acoustically without amplification. This, of course, today applies to the use of the archtop mandolin in a bluegrass ensemble...which serves well to cut through a banjo, mandolin, dobro, fiddle and doghouse bass playing simultaneously. You can never expect a flat style mandolin to cut through a bluegrass ensemble...but the upside is that the flat style does offer a truly sweet tone with tremendous sustain!


Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 00:29:29 -0600

I have a couple of questions to ask you about mandolins. My husband, aunt
and uncle and I are all about to start taking music lessons.My husband and
uncle on the guitar and my aunt on the banjo. And I am thinking about the
mandolin so we can all play bluegrass music together, which is what we have
all wanted to do. Which mandolin of yours would be a real good entry level
instrument, and what would you also recommend as top of the line for
bluegrass, of the ones you handle? Would you please me back and let me
know, I would really appreciate it. I am interested in getting started on
lessons really soon.
Also, you have a great website.
Thanks,
Vicky

Hello Vicky,

For bluegrass, you'll want an archtop F-Hole style mandolin. These are the most sought after mandos by bluegrass players...

My recommendation for the best value would be a Kentucky A-Style: either the KM-140S or the KM-150S...and if you're looking for a high-end, professional level A-Style at a great price, the KM-250S would be the ultimate in Kentucky models. Mickey

---

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 00:46:37 -0600
Subject: Flat Style Vs. Archtop Mandolins

Hi!
I wanted to get some information about the Weber Y2K and the Mid-
Missouri mandolins. I am wanting to start out playing bluegrass
mandolin and wondered if these would be good starting instruments.
I wanted to stay in the $400 range. I saw on the weber website that
the Y2k came with f-holes or soundhole--do the mid-missouri have this
same option? Do you have a weber y2k with f-holes in stock? How does
the quality differ between these two models? What are the main
differences between these mandolins? Where are both of them made?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Brett

Sent by Law Mail

Hello Brett,

Mid-Missouri only makes a round soundhole...and, Weber no longer makes the Y2K f-hole model...they said that they will be correcting their website to state the same.

The Mid-Missouri is made in Missouri; the Weber is made in Montana.

The main differences is that the Mid-Missouri will have a deeper tone and the Weber has slightly more projection.

To be completely upfront on these, the Y2K and the Mid-Missouris are Flat-Style mandos.

In essence, there are two classifications that all mandolins fall under:
1. Flat Style
2. Archtop Style

Now, there are many variations of the above two styles such as F-Hole soundholes, different variety of woods, different body shapes, and so on...

A flat-style mandolin is applied mostly in Celtic or Old-Time idioms...you would very seldom hear a flat-style mandolin being played within bluegrass settings. An archtop mandolin is standard for bluegrass...another consideration are the soundholes. Most all bluegrass mandolinists are looking for F-hole Soundholes for that cutting sound that will literally slice through a bluegrass jam session. Most all mandos with oval soundholes have more of an open sound with lots of sustain...not necessarily desirable when playing bluegrass...A good, solid bluegrass mandolin would have the following characteristics:
1. A powerful chop or punch...really shows through when comping chords. This is kind of a percussive sound that literally supports the bluegrass band when a mando is playing back-up.
2. A nice cutting tone that slices through within a bluegrass ensemble. Leads should always soar above all the other acoustic bluegrass instruments. A characteristic of Archtop instruments.
3. Less sustain...with less sustain, linear fast lines can be played without any muddy overtones or oscillation.

The above characteristics can all be easily attained with a good archtop, f-hole mandolin.

Now, a flat-style mandolin offers the opposite in characteristics...
1. Usually will have a softer tone making chords dissipate into thin air without any chop...although, the chords will have a nice open sustain to them which can be truly supportive when playing with only one guitar.
2. Has less volume but more openness giving the mandolin more of a light flavor that's pleasant to the ears.
3. More sustain...great for playing light classical pieces where a note will sustain for up to 8 beats without having to resort to playing a tremolo...

Therefore, if you're wanting to pursue bluegrass, I'd recommend a archtop F-Hole mandolin...

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 23:40:09 -0600
Subject: Mandolin Binding

What does Multi-Ply Body Binding mean? Thanks.

Peter


Hello Peter,

This is a plastic strip that completely borders the mandolin body...it adds to its appearance and functionality...it protects the mandolin from getting dinged on the edges...when an instrument doesn't have the multi-ply binding, it becomes more susceptible to becoming banged up on the edges due to wood being softer than the plastic binding and the fact that the edge is the first to get beat up (when being careless with handling the instrument).

The multi-ply means the plastic binding is layered and usually has more than one color to it...for instance a white/black/white strip enhancing the overall appearance and giving the instrument a finished look.

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 00:51:06 -0600

My uncle just purchased a mandolin(KM-620B) from you guys and I got a chance
to jam with him the other night. I had never really heard a mandolin played
before and I instantly loved the unique sound. I currently play the guitar
and I was wondering if the mandolin is harder to play than the guitar? I
watched what my uncle was playing and it didn't seem too hard. Thanks for the
help.

Brian DiPalma

Hello Brian,

The approach to mandolin is very similar to playing guitar...especially in the right hand...now, the neck scale is far shorter and the string spacing is very narrow compared to guitar. It can take practice to become accustomed to the instrument with your fretting hand. If you're already playing guitar, you'll find the transition to mandolin relatively easy; I know I enjoyed my early efforts on mandolin. Since I had already played guitar for many years, I was up and playing mandolin within an hour. Certainly, the first songs I played were elementary, even so, I was at the very least playing recognizable melodies. And, ultimately, I had a completely new voicing to add to my arsenal of instruments.

Mickey

---

Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 21:19:06 -0600

Hi... I've been purusing your site and thought you might be able to answer a few questions.

I played bluegrass mandolin years ago and am getting the bug to do so again. I'll soon be in a
position to buy a new one (or nice used one). I want something decent but not el-cheapo. One of my
main questions is: how much difference in real-life sound quality are we talking about between a
lamintated spruce top, a pressed spruce top, and a carved spruce top? Let's apply the question to
the Kentucky line of F mandolins. Not including any of the fancy hardware, real mother-of-pearl
inlays, etc, etc.. talking tone only... how much diff? Major noticable difference in projection,
clarity, warmth..? your honest opinion, please ( F models only). What do you think of the Kentucky
mandolins overall? (i know you sell them so it's sort of like asking a parent what they think of
their kids but.... :) your honest appraisal.

Next question: I'm debating on buying with or without a piezo pickup installed. How difficult is it
to add, say, a Fishman later on? I'm reasonably adept at intermediate repairs-- is it something i
could do myself? Is there a particular type of bridge that makes it more difficult?

Thanks for your time... i've taken plenty of it...


Scott

Hello Scott,

There can be a lot of difference between a solid top and a laminate top...to the average listener, the differences can be imperceptible...now, over time, the differences between a laminate top and a solid top becomes very obvious. A solid top will season with time and mellow in tone. Most all new mandos will have a crisp bright tone...that will change over time if the woods are solid. In my opinion, a laminate top sounds the same new as it will 10 years later.

I really believe in the Kentucky line-up...they are truly the best value in the industry and surpass any other import I know of...I say this with conviction...I've been playing mandolin for 25 + years and remember how the Kentuckys were held in high esteem even back in the '70s. We do sell other imports, but I can't endorse them like I can the Kentucky models.

It's not difficult at all to install a pick-up...you can opt for a pick-up built into the bridge which only means you'll need to replace the original bridge. Or, we alos carry many transducers that can be permanently mounted or temporarily mounted.


Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 22:56:39 -0600

Hello!

I'm a folk and alternative music guitarist and am considering broadening my repertoire by learning the mandolin. I recently saw your website and was very excited by your generous trade-in and trade-up policies. I have a bunch of questions for you:


Thanks for your help with these -- I hope we can do business together soon.

Douglas Briggs.

Hello Mickey,

What is a good instrument to begin with, given I have some experience with the guitar?

This would depend on your budget and the style of music you hope to pursue with your new mandolin. My first recommendation to all beginners is the Kentucky series of mandos. These are the best value in the industry and the only import I believe in.

* I was taken with the Kentucky 150S. Is this a good beginner instrument?

I love this mando! It has a nice carved solid spruce top and solid maple sides and back. wow! And, at a great price. We set them up with a nice low action before they leave our shop.

* I have a Sigma DR-3 dreadnaught in good condition sitting in my closet. What is its trade in value?

We do our best to give current market value on all trade-ins. Does it have a case?

* What are good mandolin instruction books to develop solid fingering and picking skills?

We have quite a few...one consideration would be an instructional video (this would be the next best alternative to having a personal instructor). For books, I'd recommend a methodology series as opposed to a songbook. We have a few such as: You Can Teach Yourself Mandolin or Mandolin Crosspicking Technique (this one has a series of exercises that build mando techniques).

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:59:48 -0600

Hi,
My name is Gene Vermillion. I would like to first say how great it is to
find a company with integrity and a true care for its customers. I am
trying to decide between one of the Kentucky mandolins or the Weber Y2K.
I've listened to the videos and the Weber seems to have a brighter and
sweeter sound. Does the Y2K come with f-holes? How much is it? What is the
action like on the Kentucky 630 and Y2K? I'm interested in playing
Bluegrass music.Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Gene

Hello Gene,

Glad to help!

First and foremost, the style of music you will be playing will predetermine which mando to purchase. The Weber Y2K does have an open woody, bright tone as you've described...although, the Y2K is what is called a flat mandolin. This means that it does not have an arched top which is commonly found on bluegrass style mandolins. The Flat style lends itself well to Celtic and Old-Time Fiddle Tunes...because of its sustain and open sound, it does not fit well within a bluegrass setting. An archtop mando, such as the KM-630, will cut through any bluegrass jam session, it has a quicker decay (not as much sustain) and meets the expected standard for the bluegrass genre.

My recommendation for bluegrass would be either the Archtop Kentucky KM series (the 2 best values are the KM-250S or the KM-630) or another Weber such as the Bitterroot or Beartooth models.

We adjust the action of every instrument that ships through us...unless a customer specifies otherwise, we set it up for a very low action for total ease of playability and also adjust the intonation with an electronic tuner.

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 01:32:16 -0600

Hello,
I found your site on the web and I was wondering what you mandolin you
recommend for a beginner. I have been playing guitar for 10 years and I
have picked up a few mandolins over the last couple years and now decide I
want one.
I was looking at the Kentucky KM-140(s) but the KM-160s looks more solid. I
was trying to stay below $300. Obviously the KM-140 is the low-end model
and from what I hear and read, a solid body will sound much better.

Also, do you recommend a hard case or soft case?
How long will it take to ship to the Portland, OR metro area?

Any information and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
James Horan

Hello James,

Glad to assist!

I personally like the KM-150S and find it to be the best value in the industry. The 150S offers a completely solid wood instrument at an unbelievable price...

We set up all mandos before they're shipped to ensure ease of playability. We also intonate and install bridges so your mando you receive is ready to play as soon as it arrives.

As far as cases go, a lot would depend on how rough it may be handled. If you find yourself transporting it with other cargo, I would recommend a hardshell case. If you're carrying it to class, and like shoulder straps, a gig bag will suffice. Mickey

---

Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2000 12:10:59 -0600

thanks Mickey for the information. I assume that the
only difference between the Rigel A+ and the Deluxe
is cosmetic-not quality of construction and does not
effect sound or playability?

This is a valid question...Both the A+ Standard and A+ Deluxe are nothing short of exquisite...I do know that there are different levels of appointments that separate these two models. Such as, all gold hardware on the Deluxe...There are also different wood selections made for these models...not that one would be superior to the other in wood choices, but that a different figure of woods would be pre-selected for both models bases on aesthetic qualities.

It's not clear to me re: your "trade up" policy what
"in stock" means. I assume you don't keep many high
end mandolins at your site but order from the
builders as needed.

We offer a Trade-Up policy that gives you your full initial purchase price towards another instrument, at our current discount pricing. You might purchase an A+ standard and decide to upgrade to a deluxe without any loss of investment. This also stands for as long as you own your instrument.

We do have many high-end mandos in stock on a regular basis...for instance, we currently have a Weber Beartooth, a Weber Bridger, a Rigel G-110...etc...we also always keep a running schedule of high-end mandos coming in as follows this week: 1 A+ Standard Black, 2 Rigel A+ Deluxe Tobacco, 1 Weber Yellowstone, 1 Weber Bitterroot...we also have 3 Breedlove mandos scheduled to come in 1-2 months...

Also excepted are instruments from
private luthiers. I'm not sure how to interrpet this
exception. For example, if i were to order a Rigel A+
and a yr. from now could i trade up(with full
credit)for a Rigel A+ Deluxe?

Most definitely...You will have the option to trade up to the Rigel A+ Deluxe with a full initial purchase price credit towards what ever our current discount pricing may be at the time.

I will be removing the independent luthier exception from the stipulations so that there will be no further confusion. We no longer have any special considerations. Everything goes; you only need to call or and we will accommodate in any way that is possible.


With regards to
mandolins, currently would i be limited to trading up
to Weber and Rigel that cost more than the Rigel A+,
if i were to purchase one?

Your only limit is that the instrument you're trading up to is new and more expensive. Even if the instrument is only 50.00 more than the one previously purchased, it would still be considered a qualifying trade-up. Brands are not trade-up specific. You may switch from one brand to another during your trade up.


Does in stock mean at your
shop or merely that you have access to it through a
builder that you have a relationship with from time to
time such as currently Weber and Rigel?

In Stock would mean whatever instrument we're representing at the time of a trade-up.

Hope this helps clarify everything.

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...
Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 23:09:43 -0600 from Steve Perry

Hi Mickey,
Thanks for the encouraging response. You have about the best dang
musical-instrument web site I've seen None of that extra mushy stuff, just
good comprehensive info that's easy to get to!

Thanks for the encouraging words...

You suggested the Weber or Rigel F hole models for versatility, but with
the Weber Bridger remaining a possibility. I don't generally find myself
in a bluegrass setting too much - mostly in rather odd mixes of folks,
including early music people. I suspect either F or A would do - I end to
modify my playing to fit the setting and the instrument, anyway! Sounds
like the larger ones are later additions for specialty use.

I also play a variety of styles and do not find myself playing often within bluegrass circles. I certainly wouldn't let bluegrass predetermine which mando to purchase...I also play a Rigel G-110 which I've found plays well within any genre...very balanced with a superb tone...


Looking at your site, the neck on the Rigel sounds great, but they seem
high $ and fancy. The simplicity of the Hyalite appeals to me [probably
the name - I have a Ph.D. in geology!]. Bridger sure looks pretty, but
another one of those expensive things!

I personally like the sound of the Weber Bridger...it's open and resonant...it works well with 1-2 guitars or a folk setting...for a bluegrass setting, it just doesn't cut through...


Then again, an entry-level all-solid Kentucky or something might work fine.
I just don't know. I don't play the Mandolin yet. But it has to be
easier than these fiddles!! I'll try to get into civilization and try some
different ones out. My local luthier only has hand-made local ones that
are toooooo expensive and don't sound THAT good to me.

The two Kentuckys that I personally like are the Kentucky KM-675 and the KM-250S...if you get a chance, try these out...these are versatile mandos that work well within most genres. Mickey

---

Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000

Is the ovation considered to be a (real) mandolin, or is it considered by mandolin players to be some sort of freak of nature?

It's really more of a novelty instrument. I, personally, consider it a unique instrument unto its own. It's tuned and played like a mandolin... is Kentucky a respected name in mandolins? It's the only import I personally believe in...as offering the best value and quality.

Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000

WHAT IS YOUR PRICE FOR A KM-1000? HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO THE KM-675 IN TONE? WOOD AND CRAFTMANSHIP? WHAT IS THE GREAT DIFFERENCE?

The KM-1000 is superior in both tone and aesthetics to the KM-675...even so, they're both superb instruments with great volume, punch and playability. The greatest difference, or the most noticeable, is the finish on the KM-1000 is a matte finish and the KM-1000 looks like it should be on display in a glass case. Even the hardware is all silver plated...not nickel plated.

Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000

As you well know if you have two of the same kind of mandolins does not mean that they will sound exactly alike. I have seen very expensive gibson mandolins sound terrible and I have seen some 300 dollar alvarez sound good. So what is your opinion of buying and not playing first?

You're right, some models, even the same models, may vary in tone.

Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000

Tonally,what do YOU hear as the difference in an A style compared to an F style?

The F-style on average is sharper and usually has less sustain...although the differences can be imperceptible to the average listener...especially between the A-Style F-Hole and the F-Style F-Hole models. The A-Style will have an open more woody sound than an F-Style on average...

Does a painted black instrument suck the tone or does it not matter?

The black finish will not affect the tone any more than a sunburst finish.

Date: Mon, 29 May 2000

I recently compared a Flatiron Festival and a Weber Yellowstone at a local retailer. The Flatiron was lighter, had better action and a nice ring in the high end. The Weber was built like a tank, heavier, higher action, but with a booming bottom end. Are these mandos representative of two different trends in building these days? Which is the better mandolin in your opinion?

The Flatiron seems to have a little thinner tone on average than a Weber on average...there are exceptions. I have a Flatiron A-5 Artist that has tremendous volume and tone...but does have that characteristic thinner tone. As a percussive, bluegrass instrument, it works well for cutting through. Now, the Webers can also have this same characteristic...for instance, I've found the Weber Bitterroot to have a very responsive, cut-through tone (and, it's also relatively lightweight). Now, this is the matte finish version. Maybe the finishes on the higher end Webers are affecting the tone to some degree by fattening the bass end. Who knows? These are subjective questions to say the least.

I just got done talking with a really great mandolin player at a bluegreass festival, and he told me that a f-style mandolin would have better tone than an A-style. And since I recently purchased a KM-250S Kentucky mandolin, I felt a bit distressed that maybe I should have gotten an F-style, but thought the difference was just in looks since they both have f-holes for sound. What's your opinion on this matter?

 I have been playing 20 years + both as a professional and a writer of mando technique books. The A-Style, with F-Holes, is as good as you can ask for most any bluegrass setting. The F-Style has the edge because of the profile...which is commonly seen in most all classic traditional bluegrass bands. The tonal difference can be imperceptible to most...although, many Fs I heard do have a cut-through tone, I've also heard many As that sound better than some Fs...what can you say? Remember, your 250S has a solid spruce top and solid maple back and sides; to get into an F with these type of solid woods would cost substantially more than any comparable A model.

Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000

My daughter-in-law has a mandolin that belonged to her great grand father. The odd ting is it has a medal resanator like a dobro. I have been able to find anything that resembles this instrument. The wood body is very pretty wood but the front is a ???? for me. I have been around music most of my life and lived a good part of it in Nashville but this is a stumper for me. If you can tell me anything I would greatly appreciate you imput and expertize.

The resonator style mandolins have been around for quite awhile...dating back to when dobros were first introduced. There have been many brands of mando-dobros that vary in value based on rarity. Today, we carry the Rigel mando-dobro...so, they are still being made today.

Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000

My name is Jeff I have been playing the mandolin for about 3 years I'm tring to get the tremolo right, I noticed when I play the tremolo it's mostly in my wrist is this right or is it suposed to be more in the arm?

The tremolo may be subjective to the individual player...I've seen the tremolo played effectively with both the forearm and the wrist. I've found that using both forearm and wrist with as natural a movement as is possible works best of all. To practice your tremolo, be sure to start off slowly with the tap of the foot....speed up your tremolo as you gain comfort. Never force your tremolo by struggling with it. You should be able to play a tremolo for many consecutive minutes without tiring. Once you've achieved this, you will then know that you're playing your tremolo correctly. Be aware, that the gauge of pick you're using will also influence your capability to play a flowing tremolo. Start off with a light gauge pick to ensure that your succession of notes is played easily without any hesitation. Upon gaining comfort with a light gauge, graduate with a medium gauge pick.

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000

When I play in public or in jam sessions, it is primarily gospel/bluegrass and bluesy/rock/folk. Now to the question O or F holes?

If you're looking for sustain along with a wide open sound, the "O" Soundhole would be the choice...whereas, if you do a lot of bluegrass and fast linear lines, such as used in jazz, the "F" Soundhole would be the choice...If playing in a jam session, you'll also find that the "F" Soundhole cuts through a wall of sound whereas, a roundhole will sometimes get lost in a jam session.

Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000

I have a Flatiron A-5 Artist mando (which complements the Weber octave mando I purchased from you guys last week) and would like to experiment with different tones. One of my buddies suggested a pre-amp (both mandos are, or will be, externally miced). Do you have any recommendations or thoughts?

I used to always use a per-amp...try to find a system that includes an equalizer so you can balance highs and lows....as far as which one to buy, I'm not sure.

Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000

What are some 'essential' cd's that you would recommend for becoming familiar with mandolin music? How about some other recommended mandolin cd's that a beginning mandolin student could hope to emulate within years instead of decades?

For really tasteful, easier to learn mando, I'd highly recommend everything that Norman Blake has done with Mando. Just about any album Norman recorded has some tremendous mando solos that are very tastefully played, and certainly at speed that can be easily attained for the beginner mandolinist.

 

Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000

Is it possible to do any damage by over tightening the truss rod? One more question - any other materials that you recommend for a beginnerto get up to speed? I got the "you can teach yourself.." book, butwould like to try something more like a 'method' approach.

There is a slight force required to straighten the neck...although, if your neck is straight, with a very slight bow (which is desireable), then you should not have to adjust it any further...there is a chance ofovertightening which can break a truss rod...You might consider the "Mando Crosspicking Technique" book which coversintensive flatpicking exercises and builds lots of solo techniques...manyof the tunes allow you to play solo while filling in harmonies thus givingyou the opportunity to carry your own without accompaniment.

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999

Do you possibly know the production years for the KM-180S and serial number ranges?

I'm not sure when the KM-180S was first produced or when it was discontinued.

Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999

Thanks for the great info . More more question if you would...12vs 14 fret neck? pros? cons?. one neck suits bluegrass another folk?

The main differences... to consider between the above models listed is the Solid Spruce Top (offered on all of the models with an "s" after the number), and the 14-fret neck as opposed to the 12-fret necks....The 12-fret neck is fine if you're just starting out...although, having a 14-fret neck will allow you more room to grow by giving you a few more notes on the top register...As far as styles of music, they both can be played within most any style of music including bluegrass and folk.

 

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999

What's the difference/significance of a "solid spruce top" vs a "carved solid spruce top" ?

Hello, The main difference between these two types of Mandolin tops is:

1. Carved Solid Spruce top: this means that the top was hand-carved and toned for both nicer aesthetics and some tonal quality differences. This type of top has a nice gradation on the scroll and a carved out top that rises above the normal flatness of a mandolin. It's sort of a concave from the inside giving it a slight bowl-like quality on the outside.

2. Solid Spruce top: this is a top that does not have any gradation. This means the top is relatively flat without any relief to it...

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999

Hello, I'm a beginner interested in learning mandolin (bluegrass in particular) and was interested in your price on the Kentucky KM 675 w/ hardshell case. I've thought about starting with a less expensive instrument, but I had a few things in mind in initially choosing the 675:

1. I tend to stick with things when I develop an interest, and I have some musical background (not in acoustic instruments), so I'm not too worried about not liking it and wanting to give it up.

Not a worry if purchased through us...considering our trade-up policy...you retain your initial purchase towards any future upgrades.

2. There are other instruments I'm also interested in -- dobro, for instance, I just love that sound -- so if I did really get engaged in this, I'd probably want to get another instrument before upgrading the mandolin. In other words, this would probably be my only mandolin for quite a while, and I'd like one that would mellow some with age and use.

You will definitely want a solid spruce top if you'd like one that seasons with time. The laminates sound the same new as old.

3. I've done a bit of research, and the 675 seems like a really good buy. In the same price range, Gibson/Flatiron only offers A styles with oval sound holes -- fine mandolins, I'm sure, but not ideal for the type of music I'm interested in (as I learned from your FAQ section).

Sure...I agree. For the price, nothing compares to the 675. It even has a hand-carved top along with solid maple sides and back.

My apologies for running on a bit. If you could let me know what you think, I'd greatly appreciate it. You've got a really nice website -- the most helpful I've found, and it seems from the various messages and comments that many others share my opinion.

Thanks for the kind words Scott!

Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999

Is there any difference in the quality of the mandolin due to the type of wood used? I see some are solid spruce, and some solid maple. Which is better? Thanks! brose

Hello brose, Yes, there's a difference in tonal quality and in aesthetics regarding the different use of woods...

Now, in reference to the solid maple category...this usually means that the back and sides are constructed out of solid maple...which is common on a mandolin. Most mandos have solid spruce tops and maple sides and back...the other type of top utilized would be a laminated spruce top; otherwise, it's uncommon to see mando tops made of woods besides spruce. Backs can also be made of mahogany...

Hope this helps...Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999

I have come to a point in my life where I have decided that I would like to learn how to play an instrument. After hearing Drew Emmitt of Leftover Salmon play the mandolin I realized this is the instrument I would like to learn to play! :)

Can't say that I blame you...One of my all-time favorite instruments is the mandolin!

My questions to you are: Since I have no prior musical experience, is a mandolin a good instrument for a beginner to attempt to learn?

It's one of the best...especially since the tuning lends itself so well to melody playing. Since it's tuned in 5ths, the mando offers better facility for both finding a melody and executing it.

Do you think it will be difficult for someone to try and learn the mandolin without a instructor? (there are none in my area)

Not necessarily...although, I highly recommend personal instruction there are some compromised alternatives:

1. Videos...video instruction is the next best thing to having a teacher in the same room with you...

You can see, hear and repeat lessons until you've absorbed the material thoroughly...a video has all the patience in the world.

2. Books...many books include CDs now so that you can hear what you're attempting to accomplish through the written notation.

3. CDs and Tapes...again, a great alternative to having a teacher instruct you...you can at the very least hear exactly what you're attempting to learn...

What do you think is the best mandolin for a person on a limited budget that will last awhile? (I'm a college student )

I highly recommend the Kentucky KM-140 or 140S for starting out...it has a very playable, fast neck and is quality constructed. It additionally is the closest mando you'll find to pro level for the cost...one of the all-time best value in the realm of affordable mandolins.

Which type of mandolin should I buy? I am not sure of the genre of music that I wish to play. I can tell you that some of the bands I like to listen to are Phish and Leftover Salmon, their music is the stuff I will probably end up trying to play.

Again, a versatile mando that offers good playability, so that you do not get frustrated during the learning process, is the KM-140 or 140S. It offers a tremendous tone that works well in most any style of music...Mickey

---

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999

Hello, I am a beginning mandolin player, and currently have a second hand Bently A Style mandolin. It has a brand new Soft Shell case. I cannot find any other markings on it indicating date of manufacture.

These sell on average around 65.-80.00 used...

I have my eye on a Kentucky KM 620 or 630. But I have a few questions: my teacher told me to try to get a Flatiron, but I'd like to buy new and they're quite expensive. Do you deal with entry level Flatiron products?

Sorry, we do not carry the Flatiron line...we do carry the complete Weber, Mid-Missouri, Kentucky and Rigel lines.

If not are the Kentucky mandolins similar in quality.

The Kentucky line offers many pro features and is comparable in many ways. They offer a complete line from beginning to high-end professional as does Flatiron.

Also, the KM 630 seems to be the better value because of the solid spruce top, but the KM 620 seems more eye appealing, maybe it's just the picture.

Both the 620 and 630 offer gold hardware and the same aesthetics...I suspect it would be the pix.

Also, another dealer told me that the laminated top won't crack as easily??

You know, logically this would be true...it's harder for plywood to crack through all of its layers than one solid piece of wood.

Are the solid woods prone to cracking?

Not really. A lot depends on the weathering condition you put it through; or how well the wood is seasoned before it's built.

Also, what is multi-ply Binding - is that plywood or laminated wood?

Multi-ply binding is the plastic strips that follow the outside edges of an instrument...and, sometimes on the edges of the fingerboard down the length of the neck.

I'm sorry about having so many questions, but I am in the market. Would you accept my current mandolin in trade?

We accept all trades...we offer you a credit towards your purchase on exactly what the market value of your used instrument will bring...we truly try to be fair by giving exactly what your instrument would sell for on average. In this case, your average sell price of your Bently would be 70.00 used in decent condition.

---

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999

Thanks for the info. Yes the buzz only occurs when its fretted. Do I do all strings counter clock wise are only the E&A?. I'm using the strings you sent with the mandolin. I like Martin strings but haven't tried them as yet. Will be a few days before I can try this out, but will let you know. Thanks Again Mitch

Hello again, Look for the 2 screws on the bridge...they have thumbscrews that can be turned either counterclockwise or clockwise. Simply loosen your strings...and then turn these two thumbscrews (on the bridge which supports the strings between the tailpiece and and the fingerboard) counterclockwise in equal amounts. a couple of revolutions should do it.

Be sure to get back with me if you're still confused...you may also call me if you'd like...Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1999

Hi Mickey, Thanks for the prompt reply. I'm a little surprised that the pickguard isn't standard. Is there some reason that Kentucky left it off? How much does it cost to have you install one? Does the pickguard you use integrate well with the instrument both from an aesthetic and functional standpoint? Do you recommend having a pickguard installed? Thanks, Carl

Hello again, I have no idea why they do not include the pickguard...especially, since they include them on most all other Kentucky models! I do know that I personally prefer to play mando without a pickguard. It seems to me, as long as you're not beating on your mando, they are not necessary. There are a few players who depend on the pickguard to support their picking hand by anchoring their right hand on the pickguard.

I can install one for 25.00...this is a high-end pickguard with a red marble appearance. It does go very well with the mando.

I would not recommend installing a pickguard unless you have a certain style of playing that requires it; for instance, if you support your small finger on the pickguard while picking. Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1999

I am trying to teach myself to play the mandolin. I have been able to get a lot of good stuff on the Internet, but I have yet to find information on how to play a mandolin with a capo. I play the guitar with a capo, and I was wondering if you put the capo on the same frets as with the guitar? i.e. putting the capo on the 1st fret of the quitar lets you play Ab,Db,Eb, and putting the capo on the 3rd fret of the guitar to play Bb, Eb, and F. Any help would be much appreciated. Brenda

Hello Brenda, I've played mando with a capo before...it really helps when you've learned a tune in a certain key and someone comes along and wants to play it a step up. The best type of capo for mandolin use is an elastic banjo capo. These fit perfectly. The principle works the same as far as key changes as it does for guitar. For instance, when playing a G chord with your capo on the first fret, it then becomes an Ab chord...with capo on the second fret, the G position now becomes an A chord. Keep in mind, it's advisable to learn to play all of your tunes in all keys so that you'll not be completely dependent on a capo.

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999

Thank you again, Mickey. Great info...I work in a library so I'm into that!!! You've given me lots to think about. One more question, if you care to reply...I know I've asked so much already! What is the difference in playability, sound quality etc. between the A-style, F-style and one with open hole? I understand the look of them - just wonder if there is a reason one would choose one over the others. A matter of taste only? What do you prefer and why? Thank you again, Mickey. This is exciting. Kind regards, Cathy

Hello Cathy,

These are all valid questions...A-Style with F-Holes: Sounds similar to the F-style but with a little more openness in tone...

F-Style with F-Holes: Nice sounding with a cutting through tone...no sustain and openness but perfect for bluegrass or jazz...

A-Style with oval hole: Very open and woody sounding that lends itself to folk music, classical or Irish fiddle tunes...

Playability, depending on brand, is relatively the same on all body styles...other than, scale length of neck may limit higher register playing.

I'd recommend the A-style with F-holes...especially if you're into a variety of styles as I consider this one the most versatile.

Hope this helps...

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999

Hello Sir, I am not in an area with a mandolin instructor near by I am looking for a video that walks ya thru tremolo . I have been learning via fake books and instruction books . I would like to know if you can recommend a good tremolo instruction video thank you from Dan Haines

Hello Dan,

Sorry, I'm not sure which videos offer extensive tremolo technique...they all offer basic tremolo technique....

Here's how I do it:

1. First brace your forearm on top of the mandolin...

2. Make sure the pick is perpendicular to the string...start off this technique by using a thin pick so that you can build up to a medium gauge.

3. Now loosen the wrist completely as if shaking off water from your hand...

4. Count to 4 while tapping your foot without striking the strings...

5. After you've got an even tempo, incorporate the "and" between your counts: 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 and 1 and 2 and...and so on.

6. Now, with a completely loose wrist, and your forearm braced, trying picking the notes for each number along with the in between "ands"...the number would be a down stroke and the "ands" would all be up strokes.

7. After you can do this at an even tempo, you only need to double the frequency by picking 2 notes (down and up) for each count and the in between "ands"...be sure to keep your wrist loose and your forearm braced.

This is also a great technique for building speed...Try this and get back with me when you've hit a wall. I'll do my best to assist you through the process...

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1999

Hi! I am wondering if you might tell me your reserve on the Kentucky KM-140, please? I would so appreciate it.

And also - you sound like you really know what you are talking about so I'm just going to ask you a couple things. Please excuse me if I seem bold, but I am really ignorant in the mandolin area. I play a little fiddle and violin and have wanted a mandolin for years. So have been thinking about getting one, but I don't know if this is a good one for me. How is Kentucky rated? What do you think of it against other models? Is there a brand that you always get a great tone and easy action with - seems pretty important when one is buying over the net. I have several really nice guitars and a good violin...I do like a nice one, but as a beginner...gosh, hate to invest too much. Yours sounds pretty good!

If you have any words of wisdom for a rookie here... I would bless you! But I also understand if you would rather not discuss it...takes time...and that is precious. Just asking. And thanks so much!!! Kind regards, Cathy

Hello Cathy, Not a problem...am glad to assist...my reserve is 175.00 (which includes the hardshell case)...The Kentucky series is in my opinion the best value in the industry. We carry many mandolins that cost upwards of 3,000.00. The Kentucky is truly a workhorse mandolin that serves all the functionality you'd expect from a decent quality mando. The KM-140 offers great playability, easy tuning and solid construction. Since you're already playing fiddle/violin, you'll find the mandolin will come easy to you...There are many great brands that offer good tone and playability: Weber, Rigel, Mid-Missouri, etc. As far as buying over the net, you only need to read our store policies below to see that in some cases, you have even more support and you can truly buy with confidence through FOTW. Hope this helps...You may optionally purchase direct through us at your convenience...

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999

To whom it may concern; I have two quick questions for you. My uncle has a Mandolin from 1982 that he said he'd sell me for $50.00. It's a Washburn M-2S-SB. Do you know if this is an okay mandolin to start out with? I've never played one before, but am very interested in checking it out. I've play the guitar for about 10 years, and I know about "Washburn Guitars" but not "Washburn Mandolins." Could you please give me your opinion on this? My second question is, I'm left handed and a left handed player. Can you switch a Mandolin over to a lefty without it being a major problem? I thank you for you time in regards to this, and hope to hear from you soon. Sincerely, Tony

Hello Tony, This is a tremendous deal...especially if it's properly set up. This mando should do well for starting out on. To switch over to left handed playing, simply remove the pickguard (pickguards aren't really necessary...just don't beat on your instrument), if there is one, and then reverse the string arrangement. Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999

Dear Mr. Cochran-I am having a terrible problem tuning my new mandolin and was wondering if you can help me. If I use the seventh fret, then the harmonics are a half step off. If I use the harmonics to tune then the seventh frets are a half step off. Is there something basic that I am overlooking? I am even using a tuner without much better results. Another problem I have noticed is that the "G" string has a very dull flat tone to it when played either open or at any fret. The other strings has good tonal quality when played, it's only the G string. Is there something I should be looking at that might cause that? I hope I wasn't "taken" with an instrument that can't be tuned. It is a brand new Flinthill FHM-025. Any suggestions? Thank you for any information. Rudy Streitz

Hello Rudy, It appears that your bridge is not properly adjusted at the correct intonated distance...

The bridge should be exactly at the same tonal distance from the 12th fret as the 12th fret is from the nut. Usually, companies will properly adjust the bridge before sending out the instrument. In your case, I'm not sure what happened...

There should be 2 dots, or a separate fret marker, designating the 12th fret...after you've properly seated your bridge, you can determine if it's correct by playing a harmonic at the 12th fret and follow this by fretting the string to determine if it's the exact same note. Move the bridge slightly forward or backward if the note is flat or sharp. Keep testing until you feel you have it exact. Be sure to loosen your strings before attempting to slide your bridge back and forth. I usually keep the E string relatively tightened so that I can measure the pitch as I move the bridge in increments.

Your flat sounding G string is very likely caused by it not being properly seated in your bridge...make sure that the slot where the string rides has enough of a gap so that the G string is making a good connection.

Let me know if you have any further questions or if I can assist you with anything else...Mickey Cochran

---

Date: Sat, 8 May 1999

Hello: I just wanted to say "hello" as I am a new visitor to your site. I have been a semiprofessional musician and songwriter for 20 years, but only 2 weeks ago took up the mandolin and have absolutely FLIPPED over the instrument. Unfortunately, there aren't too many mandolin players around this end of Connecticut for me to talk to about the craft. I have a few budget-line mandolins right now that I am learning with (Goya/(Martin), Santa Rosa/(Kay), Fender) but very much want to lay me hands on a really nice quality F-style that will last me forever, but won't break the bank. (My 3 Taylor acoustic guitars have already taken care of making me poor!) Anyhow, can you give me a quick rundown on the Kentucky instruments (630 in particular) and tell me if the difference in ALL solid wood versus solid TOP make a huge difference in the mandolin tone. (I know how it works for guitars, but I don't know if mandos are much different). Any help is appreciated. (Oh yeah, price of Kentucky 630 w/case would be helpful, too!) Thanks, Mike Zito

Hello Mike, Nice of you to drop by...I'm of the opinion that the solid top is the most critical feature that influences tone...and even then, I've heard many solid tops that sound similar to the laminated tops when they're both new. Although, after years of playing the instrument, the solid top will have a more seasoned tone whereas, the laminated top will always sound the same. Having solid back and sides increases the value more than influences the tone.

---

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999

Hi,

Where are the Kentucky mandos manufactured and can you compare the KM-675 playability/tone to the Gibson or Flatiron? Thanks, John LeCroy

Hi John,

The Kentucky mandos are imported from Korea...they are superbly crafted and offer some of the best playability I've ever seen straight from a factory...this is also attested by our many customers. They are comparable, in playability and tone, to most any American-made mando...the fact that they are imported should not dictate the perception of quality. There's no doubt that Gibson/Flatirons are tremendous mandos with excellent playability and tone. The Kentucky fills the void for those who are just not in an affordable position to purchase an expensive American-made mando....without sacrifice to quality and playability.

Any new solid wood instrument, well crafted, will sound pretty close in tonal quality fresh from the factory. Although, with age, as the wood becomes more seasoned, or the instrument played continuously, you'll find the tones begin to differ substantially. One thing's for sure, a plywood instrument will always sound the same as it ages....with only a subtle difference in tonal quality without the seasoning of the tone that you get from solid wood instruments.

Remember our store policies:

100% Satisfaction Guaranteed If the instrument doesn't fit you, we will refund you your purchase price...100% Upgrade Value After purchasing through us...your instrument will always hold its initial purchase value. If you'd ever like to upgrade to a more expensive instrument through us, we offer 100% trade-in value, on your Folk of the Wood original purchase, towards the purchase of any upgraded instrument we may have in stock...We even discount what you're trading in for...this is our way to ensure you're investing your money in instruments that you can grow into...without a loss of initial investment....

---

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999

I am trying some of the pieces that you have here in Mando tablature. I read music very well I was wondering if there are copies of this stuff in music form? this would definitely speed up my learning process because I am a violinist starting out on the mandolin. I have all the fingering down pat. The technique of the instrument is what I lack--obviously a lot). But I could learn a lot faster with real music. Is it available?

Thanks for your enquiry...If you're referring to my tablature on crosspicking, I'd highly recommend learning the tab version. The main reason is that the positions are always in front of you. You'll always know the exact inversion to play since most of the crosspicking involves chording. I'm working on another mando book that includes both tab and standard notation...this one has more linear lines and the standard notation works fine.

Wishing you the best with your playing efforts, Mickey

---

Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999

HI AGAIN! THANKS FOR THE FAST E-MAIL REPLY!! WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SPRUCE TOP, SOLID SPRUCE TOP AND CARVED SOLID SPRUCE TOP? THANKS! MIDNIGHTRIDER4

This is a valid question that should be listed under our FAQs on our website.

1. Spruce Top: This is a spruce top origin but laminated...the spruce is finished on the top for a nice appearance.

2. Solid Spruce Top: This is a solid spruce top through and through and will enhance in tonal quality over the years for a seasoned tone...which isn't possible with the laminated spruce top.

3. Carved Spruce Top: These are hand-carved solid spruce tops that add to the aesthetic value of the mandolin. They have more raised edges on the front and back making the appearance of a bas relief in art terms.

Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

---

Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999

Mickey, Thanks for replying.....I will probably call you with the order later today, once I make up my mind between the KM-675 and 630. I had a 630 some years ago and it was a good instrument. I have always heard that a solid top is ultra-important, but I'm sure solid sides and back are also important. In your opinion, is there a significant tonal difference between the 630 and 675? If the tone is deeper, more solid, "woodier" to provide the right "chop", I would naturally be inclined to go with the 675. If I order today, then, would your supplier for sure be able to ship by tomorrow via 2nd day air, so that I could get the instrument and case by Friday? I'm off to a festival this weekend and would like to be able to take it along. Alan

Hi Alan, You know, I believe the tonal quality between the 675 and 630 differ subtly...not really noticeably. Although, over time, I suspect the 675 will have the more seasoned tone. There's no doubt that the back and sides does influence tonal quality. But when brand new, it would not be as audible. They both have the "right chop". There was a 675 that recently sold on the internet for 5,000.00; it had Bill Monroe's signature on the back.

I would recommend the 675 for both aesthetics appeal and for resale value. It will go up in value faster than the 630. Again, I offer 100% satisfaction, if for any reason you are not happy with the instrument you choose to purchase, I will exchange it or refund your money minus shipping. Additionally, we do full upgrades for our customers. If after a year or so, you decide that you'd like a higher end mando, we will apply your full purchase price to a new one. Thanks for your continued interest...Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

---

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 Hi Steve,

In answer to your questions:

What records are you on? I want to look for the albums, and hear you with your band. I don't do too much crosspicking, struggling through the standard Monroe stuff right now.

I've only done a couple of albums and they're pretty obscure. I will make them available on our website...Keep Tuned!

I'm going to ask another question... Should we bomb Iraq into the stone age? (just kidding)...

That's a valid question...I say give everyone a musical instrument and make music instead of war!

What chords do you use regularly besides the basic chop chords? Maj 7th's etc. Do they really work well with the standards on a regular basis?

I mostly use dim., 6ths and 9ths...very seldom do I use a Maj 7th unless the genre calls for it such as Jazz.

I am reaching a point where I really need a guitar player. Thinking about back-up is weird sounding all alone. Actually a book-tape on just backup... hmmm...Maybe "New Chops for Old Standards" or something like that..I agree...I have been considering a book on mando back-up for quite a while. I like your title idea...

Ok one thing I can help YOU with. Because I see things through a beginner- intermediate's eyes, I believe I could throw some ideas for instructional materials your way. I believe the problems on Mando that are nagging me, might be lurking around with other aspiring players. Just a thought, and you seem like a decent guy and a good teacher.

If you come across any other ideas that the beginner mandolinist would need, be sure to throw them my way. We will also list your questions in our FAQs section for mandolin. Mickey

---

Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999

Folk of the Wood, I have a mid missouri mandolin M-1 and it seems to be getting a slight warp in the neck, mostly on the e-string. Started out the 7th to 12th frets were buzzing then finally dead now its to the 5th fret. I live in Ft. Sumner N.M. could you tell me of a local luthier or give me some advice on where to send it to get this fixed. Thanks.....Tom Oliver

Hi Tom, The Mid-Missouri is a great quality mando. Very rarely do I hear of anyone with structural problems. This problem you describe could be caused by a few possibilities:

1. one or two frets need to be re-seated (usually the next fret up from where it's buzzing)

2. the neck may have warped slightly at more of a twist than a bow...the reason you can tell this is that only the E string is buzzing...not the A, D or G.

3. a swelling in the wood in the problem area

4. you're using too light of a gauge of string so that the tension is not up enough to prevent the buzz.

5. the strings are possibly not tuned to standard which relieves the neck of enough tension to cause the buzz.

If your neck is warped, it may be easily corrected by adjusting the truss rod...that is if your mandolin does have a truss rod. I'm not too sure of the M-1. You might also try a medium gauge string to see if it corrects the problem.

Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

---

Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999

Hi Mickey: Sorry to be so slow to acknowledge receipt of the mandolin. It arrived in great shape. It's a beautiful instrument and I'm very pleased. I very much appreciate your flexibility and your willingness to let me upgrade a bit from the instrument that I bid on. I'm sure that I would have been happy with either, but the 630 seems to be a very sensible move up. I agree, you certainly could never outgrow a KM-630!

Thanks for including a copy of your tape. I very much enjoy the music. You're a fine musician and your playing gives me something to aspire to. I'm glad that I had you add in a copy of your book. Its a big help to me and I appreciate having a signed copy.

You're very welcome...and thanks for the kind words. Please let me know if you ever need assistance in the learning process.

This is a Kentucky oversight I'm sure, but I was a bit surprised that there was no owners manual/setup information that came with the mandolin. There was a little sheet about truss rod adjustment, but I was a little uncertain about the best placement of the bridge between the neck and the tail. After looking at pictures of other mandolins and experimenting a bit, I ended up placing the bridge to align with the inside notches of the f-holes. This seems to work pretty well.

Since this Kentucky was shipped directly from the factory, you've received a mando without our standard set-up. We normally set the bridges up and intonate the instrument before it leaves our shop. This is a good starting point of where to place the bridge. If you were to play a harmonic at the 12th fret...you'll find the the 12th fret noted on any of the 4 choruses of strings should match.

The action may be tad high at the highest frets, but I don't have any experience with what it should be on a mandolin. I already have the bridge adjusted as low as it can go, but it looks like I can lower the action a bit more, if I like, by moving the bridge toward the tail (but not too much.) If you have any recommendations about good information on mandolin setup -- book, website, whatever -- I would love to know about it.

I will put up more info on our website regarding mando set-up. It's a great idea. There are other ways to lower an action such as: sanding down the feet of the bridge, or the mounting tops above the screws on an adjustable mando bridge or filing down the nut slots. If sanding down the bridge, use the mandolin arch as a guide...place some protective cloth on the face and then sand the bridge down on top of one sheet of sandpaper. I would recommend purchasing a second bridge just in case you make a mistake. Again, if the mando would have been shipped directly from our shop, we would have set it up per your instructions...for a low to medium action...Mickey

Once again, thanks for all your help. I'm very pleased with your product and service. I left positive feedback for you on ebay, I'm recommending you to others, and you'll probably hear from me again when I'm ready to go for a dobro. Thanks for the positive feedback...I will return the favor! Mike Hand

---

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999

Hello Mickey...The other day I was picking pretty well, playing Pike County Breakdown, Rawhide..everything seemed ok BUT...What warm-ups will get me up to speed quickly do you think? Sometimes it takes me quite some time to get back up to speed after I put the mandolin down, and pick it up the next day. Quite frustrating! Oh well. Thanks in advance, Steve Somerdin

Hi Steve, Be sure to be practicing with a metronome whenever possible. This way you can always be measuring your speed capability and pushing for improvement. As far as warm-ups, learn some basic scales that require all four fingers for fretting. Always run through them methodically before attempting any song. Additionally, it helps to do some finger stretches before even picking up your mando...similar to stretching before running a mile. Mickey

---

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999

I am a beginning mandolin player. I can play rhythm and I can pick out leads that I have memorized note for note. I can put the two together if I know the song. My problem is not not quite knowing or understanding how to pick a lead without knowing it note for note, even if I know the chords to the song. When jamming, I will pointed to to pick a lead and I can't if I don't know the notes by heart. Can you give me any pointers on how to pick an impromptu lead? I'm really stuck here and don't seem to be advancing anymore. Leslie in Bismarck, ND

Hi Leslie, Thanks for your enquiry. This is a question that requires an extensive answer. For starters, learn all your major and pentatonic scales. This is also a good process for building dexterity. Start with the C major scale; for instance, whenever a song is in played in Am, you can use the C major scale to improvise within the progression. You may also use the C major scale for any song played in the key of C...this applies to all major keys; when a song is played in G or Em, the G major scale will apply. Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

---

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999

I wanted to let you know that the Kentucky mandolin arrived today. My wife has already broken a string, so she's starting to feel like a veteran of two or three world tours. She wants to verify the tuning, from high to low as EADG? What is the restringing process? It looks like you have to take the lower metal piece off in order to put new strings on. It looks to me like it just lifts off, but is there a specific way to do that? Are there strings specifically made for mandolins? Being fairly new to steel strings, is it normal for a brand new string to break so easily, or is she tuning it to tight? One last question, There was an empty brown vinyl bag inside the compartment of the case. Any idea what it might be? Anyway, thanks again. I'm sure I'll be hearing mandolin strums until late in the A.M.. Let me know if you can help with any of the above questions. Rob

Hello Rob,

Tuning a mando from high to low is EADG. The G is directly below "middle C" on a keyboard and the exact same octave as the "G" string on the guitar.

To restring a mando, and to make sure the bridge doesn't move if it's already properly intonated, start with the 2 E strings...be sure to cut off the slack on the keys so that you can easily manage replacing the other strings. Be sure to get plenty of wounds on your shaft so that you won't have any slippage later. Follow replacing the E strings with replacing the A strings, D strings, and G strings. If perchance your bridge has moved, you'll have to make sure that you position the bridge where it was originally placed. Your best bet is to ensure that you have a reference point in case the bridge does move: take a soft lead pencil, or a small piece of masking tape and mark where the legs of the bridge are, both treble and bass, before changing your strings.

On most mando tailpieces there is a coverplate. Simply remove it by sliding it backwards while pulling up. You will then see how the string loops are mounted. Copy this exact pattern when replacing your strings.

There are many different types of strings made for mandolin...nickel plated, bronze wound, brass wound, etc. The type of strings you choose should be predetermined by the approach to and style of music you play. A big factor is the string gauge:

Light Gauge: Used for beginners since they are not as difficult to press down...many pros also use light gauge if they approach their instrument with a level of finesse that requires a lighter touch...Cons: loss of volume

Medium Gauge: A good average gauge that can be used for most any style...not recommended for beginners who are just starting out. Cons: harder to press down than light gauge...

Heavy Gauge: These are used only by a few pros who are looking for a fatter maybe louder tone. Cons: very hard to press down...not recommended for beginners whatsoever...additionally, the tension of heavy gauge adds much more stress to your instrument.

New strings usually only break if they are improperly wound on the shaft causing breakage by too many bends or by over tightening.

The brown vinyl bag held your bridge...on Kentucky mandos the bridges are normally shipped separately. We set up all of the instruments when shipped directly from our shop. We intonate the bridge so your mando plays in tune all the way up the neck...and we adjust the action based on our customers' request for low to high.

---

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998

 

Hi Mickey,

QUESTION: Thank you very much for your help. I will be definitely be visiting your website again. I'm just learning to play the mandolin and out here in Hawaii there are no mandolin players. I had a Kentucky A shaped mandolin before, but it got stolen. I always wanted an F style but couldn't afford a Gibson. I heard about the KM675, but never played one or heard one before. Is this a good one to get or should I save up the money to get a Gibson? Is the sound pretty comparable to a Gibson? I played a vintage F4 before and it was pretty happening. Sorry to sound so naive but I have no idea how the Kentucky will sound.

Also would it be possible to find out what kind of instructional material you have for mandolin whether it would be books or videos. I wonder if you have anything put out by Sam Bush or David Grisman. Please let me know. Thanks a million, Jon

The KM-675 is truly a decent mando for the price. Although, when purchased new, they do not have a seasoned tone. Given time, and many hours of use, these mandos loosen up and start to mellow in tone. Just as any solid wood instrument would. If you're already prepared to spend close to a 1000.00, you might consider shopping for an older F-2 or F-4 at a decent discount.

Now, if you're into the Sam Bush or Grisman sound, I'd recommend a f-hole mando (even the A style will work). You will find that for bluegrass and jazz, and f-hole mando cuts through and never gets muddy. They always have a sharp attack and a good bark. The round-hole mandos usually have an open woody sound great for slow tunes and folk music.

I personally have many out-of-print books of Grisman in my library and have always appreciated Sam Bush (even all the way back to "Poor Richard's Almanac"). We will be putting up all of our new mando titles on our website so please stay tuned....currently, we do have a percentage of mando books up...go to our website map.

---

Question: I linked to your site from Mandolin Cafe. I am thinking of picking up a mandolin, but I have almost no idea what I'm looking at or for. I play a little bit of guitar, so I'm familiar with fretted instruments, but I don't know any tunes, tunings, or techniques for playing a mandolin. How can I tell if I'm looking at a quality instrument, or at a piece of firewood? Thanks for your time, and site! Gary.

Hi Gary, Thanks for touching base with us. We're going to be putting up a lot of material relative to the questions you're asking. Go to our beginner mandolin lessons for starting out basics. We'll also be including future articles such as: "How to Purchase Your First Mandolin" etc.

It's fortunate that you have a little background in guitar. This helps immensely. Usually, when purchasing your first instrument, and especially if you're inexperienced in how to play it, you'll have to depend on the name recognition. For instance, if you can afford it, you can't go wrong with a Gibson. If you're looking for an affordable quality instrument, then there are many more variables and more susceptibility to making a wrong decision.

Another consideration is what style of playing do you plan to pursue with your new mandolin. This is an important benchmark; every style of mandolin will lend itself to different genres, techniques, etc. For instance, if you're planning on delving into bluegrass, I'd recommend a mandolin with f-holes at the very least. You're welcome to contact me if you've found an instrument but are unsure of its quality and value. Let me know if I can assist you further...Mickey

 

---