Subject: Need Help
Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 10:21:15 -0500

Greetings.

Greetings Carl,

I have been playing bluegrass / gospel guitar for several years and would like to try my hand at the mandolin. I play by ear and have picked up a couple of mandolins and picked out enough to spark my interest in one. Unfortunately, I have been overwhelmed with information that is often difficult to weed through without the assistance of an experienced picker. My needs are simple. I have a family which immediately tells you that I am limited in capital. The only dough I roll in is that used to make biscuits. My music is a hobby and I find it difficult to spend a lot of hard earned money on something that isn't an utmost necessity. With that said, I am looking for a good beginnig mandolin for bluegrass music. If all goes well, I would move up at a later date. Since it is hard to pick the instrument over the internet, I am needing any assistance you can offer. Again, quality and playability is important but it must come at a reasonable price.

One of my first suggestions would be to peruse our threads on purchasing your first mandolin (in our FAQ database linked from below)...secondly, you'll want to listen to some of our video samplers...linked from below.

You'll want to first consider what style of music you hope to achieve on the mandolin. This, then, would predetermine the body style and wood choices of your first mando purchase. Another, often overlooked, consideration would be to make sure that whomever you purchase a mandolin through sets it up as part of your purchase.

For a good all-around, beginner level mandolin, you might consider the Morgan Monroe, Kentucky, Johnson, Michael Kelly or Gold Tone...all of these offer up an excellent value within a vast model range. You might look at the Kentucky KM-150S or the Johnson MA-120 for the lowest price point without too much of a compromise...and for F-style bodies, you have the Michael Kelly Legacy Solid, the Kentucky KM-675 or the Morgan Monroe MMS-2...all having similar features with some aesthetic differences. Again, your first priority as a beginner would be to find a mandolin that's set up for ease of playability...once you feel more accomplished on your mandolin, you'll then look at higher end mandos with more knowledge of tonal range...Mickey

If you'd like to speak with an expert on mandos, whom also teaches mandolin, call Tradd toll free @ 888-209-8434...

Thanks, Carl

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Subject: RE: Fwd: Johnson MF 3000 Mandolin.
Date: Wed, 5 May 2004 15:53:20 -0400

Thank you for your prompt reply. For a beginner that plays the guitar, what Mandolin would you suggest with a reasonable price?

Greetings Sharon,

There are quite a few great values for the beginner...and, the choices really do seem endless when choosing between body styles and wood options...for the beginner, I usually recommend one of our imports since they offer the best value for the price...and, of course, we have a 100% trade-up value for as long as the purchaser owns the instrument...hence, if you ever outgrow it, you'll have your initial investment to apply to another higher end one...another consideration would be a beginner's package...one that includes everything the beginner needs to start out...especially an instructional video. You might want to call James @ 888-209-8434 for a good package deal to go with your mandolin...

It appears that you're somewhat on track for the best values for the beginner: Johnson, Kentucky, Michael Kelly and Morgan Monroe...

Be sure to get back with me if you have further questions, Mickey

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Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:39:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: used mandolin

Greetings Scott,

Hi there... I am considering buying a mandolin for
bluegrass/irish trad. I have NO experience with
stringed instruments and have a track record of giving
up on musical intruments very quickly. So... I wanna
go as cheap as I can.

How about this instrument in your used section?

Kentucky KM-140: MIC - Store #12742 - Serial #012054:

The Kentucky KM-140 is a great starter mandolin...especially if it's set up correctly...it is made with laminated woods and is an import...there are some compromises when purchasing an inexpensive mandolin...your biggest concern, when looking for a beginner level student mandolin, would be how well it's set up...

Would this instrument be set up for ease of play for a
beginner? And what accessories would you recommend?

Yes, we set up every mandolin shipped with our 9-Point Set-Up Checklist signed by one of our luthiers...and, we do have a great beginner's accessory package that covers everything you'd need to get started...Call James below for further info....Mickey

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Subject: Mandolin Questions
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 2004 12:16:49 -0500


Greetings Alan,

Glad to assist:

Hi,
I am in the market for a mandolin and have looked the extensive selection on your web site. I would like to know which you think best fits my needs, if that is possible

First and foremost, keep in mind, the main criteria for choosing your first mandolin, would be what style you hope to achieve...we have an extensive faq list that covers this at: http://www.folkofthewood.com/page142.htm

For starters, you'll want to consider an import...which offers affordability and value...while allowing you a minimal investment to ensure that you will pursue mandolin..


I want the best value for the cost. This will not be my main instrument ( I play banjo and fiddle) but I will on occasion play it out. Sound, playability, cost and quality construction are important to me. I intend this to be the only mandolin I ever buy so it needs to last. I would like to be under the $600 price range if possible. I thought of maybe the Kentucky KM-630 or 380? I have heard Johnson is also good. How does one decide?

Again, take your time and make sure you're purchasing a mandolin that will fit your budget, your taste, and your style (the music you hope to achieve)...for bluegrass, you'll want an f-style f soundhole mandolin...for celtic an oval soundhole mandolin...for versatility, you might check out an A-style with f-soundholes...and so on...

Also, what is the difference between the A and F styles other than cost, appearance and F's are usually used for bluegrass? Do they sound different?

The main difference between these two body styles, is the size of the cavity and sometimes the bracing...many f-styles have tone bar bracing...a standard set by Gibson...the F styles do have the added cavities of the scrolls which may increase the overall largeness of tone...so, yes they can sound different; albeit, they will sound only subtly different if they have the same bracing...

Hope this helps...Mickey


Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you.

Alan Kelly

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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 03:28:26 EST
Subject: Mandolin purchase

Dear Mickey,

Your website is the most awesome site I have seen on the internet!! For the past three weeks I have been trying to research mandolins to find out what might be the best purchase for my situation. I have until today found little or no useful information rating, reviewing, and comparing mandolins. I had all but given up hope of locating someone who would give me an objective opinion about mandolins, and then I found your website. What a blessing!

Thanks so much for your keen perception of our info-based website...we try our best...

My situation is this. My nine year old daughter is quite accomplished as a violinist. Last fall she watched a bluegrass special on PBS and fell in love with the mandolin. I mean fell in love with it! She figured out on her own that the strings of a mandolin are the same as the violin and goes around the house playing bluegrass tunes on her violin, plucking and strumming the strings as if she were playing a mandolin. Since that show she has asked for a mandolin nearly every day. Her birthday is now approaching and we have decided to purchase a mandolin for her. She is a very talented young lady and I want to purchase a decent instrument because I know she will learn quickly and will want to incorporate the instrument into the music the trio she plays in will perform. I therefore am interested in something more than the basic, entry level mandolins. She will likely play bluegrass predominantly, and I believe an F style would therefore best suit her needs. I have done a lot of research on the internet as well as telephone calls to local music stores, and have narrowed my search down to the Washburn M6SW Jethro Burns, the Michael Kelly Dragonfly II Flame, and the Kentucky KM 675. Among these instruments I am leaning toward the Michael Kelly. I have a few questions unanswered, though and am hopeful you might be of some help.¬

I'd be glad to assist...

First, should I be concerned about the warranty on a mandolin?

I guess this would depend on whom it was purchased through...In our case, we offer a lifetime warranty and an optional PRP Plan that protects a mandolin even against negligence...Our lifetime warranty applies to all imports we sell. Hence, the manufacturer's warranty becomes irrelevant since we stand behind everything we sell...

The Washburn has a lifetime warranty, the other two only two years. Second, the Michael Kelly has a radiused fingerboard. Given that my daughter plays a radiused fingerboard on her violin would this make the transition to the mandolin easier?

I suspect it would add to the familiarity of the process...an element that may make the difference for comfort to someone who is unfamiliar with the mandolin fingerboard...I play both flat fingerboard and radius fingerboards...and, yes the radius fingerboard allows longer playing times without tiring the hand...

Third, how necessary is a pick guard?

I don't believe they're necessary unless someone is beating on the instrument...and can cause damage to the top from flailing the flatpick. I, again, play mandolins with and without pickguards. I have used the pickguard to rest my little finger on during picking, only, this wouldn't be necessary...since, most of the time, the picking hand is not stationary...

Fourth, how likely are mandolins to crack, and should humidification using something like a damp-it be used with a mandolin in our dry climate here in Colorado?

Shouldn't be a problem...I have 5 mandolins and am located in the Southern Rocky Mountains...where it is somewhat dry...and, to date, have not had a problem with one of my mandolins cracking of which I'm just fortunate so far...we keep our store properly humidified with an industrial humidifier to ensure that there aren't any problems caused by dryness of weather...and, this also helps when shiping to a humid climate since most of our instruments will then already be acclimated.

Finally, of the three instruments I have suggested, which would you yourself purchase?

We do not carry the Washburn...and therefore, I cannot pass judgment on this one...We've had a tremendous response on many of the Michael Kellys we've shipped...and, the newer Kentucky KM-675 has a come a long way....and they now appear to be of decent quality...both are a tremendous value...and the most critcial aspect would be how well they're set up...my suggestion would be to go with as low an action as possible. Considering your daughter has become accustomed to playing violin, which only requires a light touch, a mandolin will require some adaption with developing calluses on the tip of the fingers...by having a low action, this process becomes less painful...

Thanks in advance for your advice, and thank you for your great website!
You're most welcome...please call James or Tradd if you have any further questions...
Call toll free @ 888-209-8434...Mickey

Sincerely,
D. Ransom

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Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 15:47:11 EST
Subject: Re: Trade in

It's me again.  So since trading in my violin might not be my way to go.... what is the best not to expensive mandolin that you can hang on to for a while without wanting to upgrade.  One with a sweet sound and the f style.  I notice the Kentuckys are popular. I won't bug you again.
Thanks again.
Cheryl

Cheryl,

You might consider the Morgan Monroe MMS-1...it's very reasonably priced and offers a perfect student level mandolin with the F-Style body...

If you're set on a solid spruce top, you might consider the Kentucky KM-630S or the MMS-2...

Don't expect a "sweet" tone from an imported F-style mandolin...they have more of a bright trebly tone...for a sweet vintage tone, you'd want to look for an older Gibson A-style or a new Rigel..

On most imports, you will find yourself outgrowing them about 2-3 years down the road...this is not necessarily true when purchasing a higher end import such as the Kentucky 700 Series, Morgan Monroe Collector's or the Michael Kelly Dragonfly...

Or, if you're playing Celtic styles, you might consider a flat style mandolin such as the Mid-Mo or the Weber Y2K4...

Be sure to check out our FAQ database for futher info on "Buying Your First Mandolin"...

Mickey

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Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 19:36:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Mandolin Question

Greetings Valerie,

Hi there! I am looking into mandolins, I would love to learn to play, and with that, I want to own one! I see that you have excellent beginner packages, but I'm more interested in buying one made in the good ol' USA! :o) What mandolins would you recommend that are American made and reasonably priced?

There really are some very nicely priced American-made mandos: Mid-Missouri, Breedlove Quartz models, Weber Hyalite, Rigel A-Natural...

The main consideration is what style of music you hope to pursue...this would predetermine which body style would fit you best...

I won't say high quality, cause I'll guess that if you have 'em, they're probably high quality - right?

As matter of fact, those listed above are high quality...yet, are the lowest priced American-made mandos I know of...

:o) Also, any advice on books or learning tools that you have would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much for your time!

For learning, it's always best to find a local, qualified teacher...the next best thing would be an instructional video...followed by books after you gain a foundation. Most importantly, you'll want to find a methodology video....one that focuses on building a foundation first and learning songs second...technique development and correct form is critical in the early stages of learning...

Be sure to check out our free lessons on our website for some orientation:
http://www.folkofthewood.com/page3.htm

Hope something here helps...if you have questions on availability or packages for the above mandos, be sure to call James our sales manager @ 888-209-8434...Mickey

Valerie

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Subject: wondering about mandolins
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:26:34 +0000

Greetings John,


Hello - I used to play guitar, still have my 30 year old Guild F-47 but played only sporadically over the last decade and haven't been able to play at all the past year and a half because of a shoulder injury. Shoulder is better and I've decided to start playing again but it is incredibly frustrating for me because it is very much like starting all over again - I'm thinking I would be less frustrated beginning a new instrument. I've always liked mandolin and have harboured a secret desire for many years to play blues mandolin in the style of Ry Cooder (talk about reaching....) and would like to buy one. I am not rich and am loathe at this point to sink a significant amount of money into a new instrument (I would like to keep it under $300.00). However, I know one usually gets what one pays for, and if the tone is not good, or it doesn't finger properly I would just be throwing money away.

Based on this rambling discourse, what instrument would you recommend?

In the 300.00 price range, there are some decent imports available...your most important consideration is how well it's set up to play...no doubt, you can get into a decent set up within the 300.00 range...only, since it will be an import, there will be some compromise in finish and construction...even so, if set up correctly, you'll find this mando range to suffice to learn on and serve sufficient utility.

I have looked through the net and on E-bay and your site seems to have the best overall information. Some Morgan "Bean Blossom" F-style mandos have surfaced on EBay for abour $225 - I noticed you used to stock them. 

Yes, we've carried them...and they're a good value...most importantly, whomever you decide to purchase one through, make sure that it is set up for ease of play...and does not have any structural flaws disallowing it to be set up correctly. The 225.00 price cannot be beat...

How do they compare w/a Johnson 120 or a Kentucky KM-140 (both A style), or any of the Morgan A styles that you have in stock? The style is not as important to me as tone, fingering and durability (lot of pressure on that short neck).

I believe that they're all somewhat comparable in quality and construction...you're not going to find any one of them to be the ultimate mandolin...what you will find is that they're all a good value and all offer a solid student level mandolin...one that can be a great learning tool (if set up correctly). And, after learning to play one of these, you'll have a better ear to determine what subtleties you yourself will be looking for in a more expensive mandolin down the road. And, usually, these import mandolins make great second mandos to take on camping trips...or drag along on a vacation...

Wish I could be of more assistance...hopefully, something here has been of assistance to you...Mickey

Thanks, John Barr

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Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 01:14:51 EST
Subject: Dad's Beginner's Mandolin ?'s - Help!

Hello Friends At FOTW!
           My compliments on your website!  

Thanks for the kind words...

I am a father researching the purchase of
a first mandolin for our daughter.  She is a music major in her second year of college,
and has focused on keyboards - never playing guitar, mandolin,etc.  But she wants
to start mandolin!  I'm a bit at sea in this process, but your site has helped greatly.
So here are a couple of questions that I'd ask for your help in answering when time
permits:
     1.  I had been looking at an Oscar Schmidt by Washburn model 10, but I notice
you don't handle Washburn.  Is there a reason?

Washburns are fine...they are comparable to most any other imports including Kentucky. Why we haven't carried them? I'm not sure...we're currently buried under with our current line-up.

     2.  In your opinion, is there a better starter instrument than the Kentucky 140;
and is the 140S worthy of the additional cost?  What is its warranty?

For starting out, the Kentucky is as good as you can ask...especially for the price. There are other possibilities such as the Morgan Monroe or Johnson...at this level, they all are relative in quality. The factory warranty on these is 1 year...we stand behind them, to our original customers, for a lifetime against manufacturer's defects. We also offer an optional PRP that will protect it in case of negligence.

     3.  What about care?  We live in WI and there can be significant temp changes
and heat/humidity issues.  She lives in a non-air-conditioned dorm.  Do finishes and
wood varieties have significant roles to consider in this?  Does this affect warranty?

It can...however, it's rare. If something happens to it due to weather conditions, such as wood joints coming apart, it would be protected under warranty.

     4.  When I order (sounding pretty sure here:)), what is the approximate shipping
time to her at 56073.

Shipping time depends on availability...if you order one we currently have in stock, we ship 2-day priority shipping which means it should arrive within 3 days. Shipping/Insurance is 25.00. Call James for availability @ 888-209-8434...he also has some great package deals that might further enhance your purchase...

Let me know how else I might assist...Mickey

                                               Thanks So Much!   Pastor Stephen Schlicht

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Subject: Re: mandolin
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 10:07:18 -0800

Hi, 

TERRIFIC WEBSITE!!!!   

Do you know anything of the mandolins made by Copley Instruments? They seem to cater to Bands/schools etc?
I know nonething of music or instruments but liked the looks and thought I would buy it. It was 300.00. I read all of the feed back and most seemed to think it was great for the dollars. And great for beginners. Not terrific or spectacular just right for the money and I think it would be Okay for me. At least I hope so. I do not even know what I want except I do not like bluegrass. I like softer stuff like girl from epanema, tangerine etc.   
Thank-you for all the time and knowledge you have put into your site and our endless questions for you.  
Lorraine 

Greetings Lorraine,

Sorry, I've never heard of this brand. Sounds like you've done your research...The most important thing you'll want to consider in purchasing your first mandolin is to make sure that it's set up for ease of playability. Most all mandolins arrive from the factory requiring set up such as filing and sanding on both the bridge and the nut. Especially the low cost mandolins (under 1k in price)...

Hence, whomever you're purchasing through, just make sure they will set it up for you...and, it would also be a good idea to have some kind of insurance/return policy...

Wishing you the best in your research efforts, Mickey

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Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 03:18:22 EST
Subject: Which mandolin

Greetings Jeff,

Glad to assist if I can:


I have 2 daughters that play violin. The youngest (12 years old) prefers fiddling. The last thing I thought I would do is take a liking to bluegrass (I'm an old burned out rocker), but have enjoyed accompanying her on my guitar in a couple competitions she has been in. Bluegrass is fun and the bluegrassers we have been around have a good time and share a great camaraderie. All of a sudden I have more bluegrass CDs than anything else. I am now very interested in purchasing a mandolin. HELP! Your web site is great. Lots of information. Spending time on your site has given me great confidence in you and when it is time to write the check you will get my business. But I'm a bit overwhelmed. I think I have narrowed it down to a few choices. Please help me nail it down. What of these is the best choice for a beginner and why: Kentucky KM-380S I like because of the price, features and testimonials. It seems like a safe and practical choice for a beginner. Kentucky KM-630 I like because of the testimonials and it is an F style. But is the fact that it is an F style just a prestige thing or is it really worth the difference?

The body style, of the F model, with the scroll and carved reliefs can be quite a bit more expensive to manufacture. That's why you really get more for the money when purchasing an A...as you can see, the 380 is a solid wood mandolin; whereas, the 630 has laminate back and sides. The nicest aspect of the 380 is that it is braced and designed with the exact same configuration as an F style.

Also, it doesn't have a solid back and sides does it? Therefore am I thinking right that even though the 380 is an A Style it very well could be a better instrument than the 630?

I would have to say that the 380 really serves more function...and, again, more value. In essence, yes, it would be built with better quality woods.

Are there enough features and benefits to justify it over the 380?

No, other than it does have the traditional F-shaped body...there are no other features that would supercede the 380. One of the functional aspects of an F-style body is the Scroll where a strap can be mounted. The 380 can have a strap button installed on the heel very easily and have the same functionality.

Is it as practical? Lastly the Morgan Monroe MMS-2 seems nice. How does it compare with the KM-630 and 380 quality wise, sound wise and playability?

Wow! This is a subjective question at best...the 380 is good in its own right...and, truly does offer a tremendous value. However, the MMS-2 is an F-style with all solid woods...and seems to be quite versatile in tonal range. I believe it would be a matter of deciding which body style you like best. If you really want an F-style, which is the most commonly found mandolin within bluegrass circles, and you also want all solid woods, then the MMS-2 might be a great option for you. It does offer a unique style wood for the back and sides: sycamore. This doesn't seem to take away from its nice tone whatsoever. Now, most bluegrass mandolins have maple back and sides...the KM-675S and MMS-3 would offer a solid wood mandolin with maple back and sides and falls closer to the bluegrass tradition. If I was going to pursue bluegrass seriously, I'd choose one of these upper end imports. Even so, the MMS-2 would not fail you...and, remember, the most important detail when purchasing your first mandolin is the set-up.

The MMS-3 intrigues me too but as a beginner I'm not sure I want to spend that much $ at this time unless you can give me some good reasons to do so. Do you have any other suggestions that would be a better choice than what I have listed considering quality, sound and price?

If you're just starting out, one of these imports should do you fine...for, it still takes a couple of years of study before you can attune your ear to the tonal differences from mandolin to mandolin. After gaining some skills, and having gained familiarity with the mandolin, I believe then you'll be better able to choose a high-end mandolin that would fit your needs. So, you're on the right track.

Mickey

I'm confused! Please put yourself in my shoes and tell me "This is what I choose because......."Thank you! Jeff Andrews

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Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 20:32:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Choosing a Mando

Mickey,
Thanks for your reply.
The mandolins you recommended (Weber Hyalite - Breedlove Quartz OF -
Rigel Natural) are ones I am looking at as possible purchases - so we're
on the same wave length!

I noticed a few differences between the models and was wondering if you
could enlighten me as to how these differences may affect how each
mandolin sounds.

I'd be glad to assist you further...

- The Weber has a mahogany body/spruce top and the Breedlove and
Rigel have a maple body/spruce top. Relating to guitars, I would expect
the maple bodied mandos to have a brighter, maybe less full sound - is
this true?

Yes...I've found this to be consistent across the slate for mandolins. Maple is more brittle sounding and seems to offer the edge on projection. Mahogany has a warmer tone and seems to resonate with less projection...however, it seems to have more fullness (especially the Hyalite with matte finish).

- Ebony fingerboard vs. rosewood - any noticeable differences in
playability/sound?

I haven't found any...and playability is relative to the set-up balance between the nut and bridge. I personally prefer ebony fingerboards on all my instruments. I also like the further contrast offered by the black ebony for position dots and fret markers...

- Oval/round sound hole vs. traditional f holes - do the
differences affect projection, etc.? I see this is an option on one of
the instruments.

Yes...there's less projection with an oval soundhole as compared to f soundholes. However, it is a give and take...the oval soundhole seems to resonate more when up close...from a distance, the f soundhole is usually heard with more definition.


Preferences regarding the overall shape of sound:
1. Warmth - YES

The Hyalite wins here...however, the Rigel does have a seasoned tone that cannot be compared to by any new mandolin.

2. Brightness - Not Critical - I don't want a muddy sound, but I don't
expect any of the recommended instruments would have that problem anyway

You're correct...none of these mandolins would have a muddy tone...the Breedlove seems to carry the most brightness of all 3...yet, with this brightness comes a discernible definition between notes.

3. Volume - Not critical - not intended to be used in an acoustical
setting

All three will have decent volume and projection...

4. Resonance - YES

The matte finishes contribute immensely to more resonance than a gloss finish.

5. Bass Response - If this relates to a broader tone which is less
mid-rangy, then yes this is important

Bass response would probably be won over by the Rigel and Weber...both having some good low end...

6. Clarity with Clear Highs - YES

Won by the Breedlove...balance and clarity is their forte period. I own a Breedlove Alpine which has the most amazing balance and clarity I've ever encountered on any one mandolin. Of course, the top on mine was individually voiced...as is true of all of their Master Class models.

If you can recommend an instrument based on these questions/replies
please do so, or reply with further questions to help narrow the
selection down.

Hope the above helps you narrow your choice even further...

Mickey


Regards,

Steve Hackett

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Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 19:54:54 -0800
Subject: Purchasing a Mandolin

Hello,
First off - cudos to your great web-site. It's probably THE BEST I've
seen for a musical instrument store. Well done!

Thanks for the kind words...that's inspiring to hear!

I am looking to purchase my first mandolin and would like advise on which
models to consider. As background, I'm in my mid-forties and have played
the guitar since I was 11, mostly rock and roll and folk/rock.

I'd be glad to personally assist...with your guitar background, the transition should be quick and easy...the mechanics are relative to the guitar...only the scale of the neck and tuning are different...

I can play the violin somewhat and have played around with mandolins off and on
but have never owned one.

Better yet, with the combination of guitar and violin background, you should be at that much more an advantage.

Recently I assembled a modest recording studio
in my house and my ear tells me that a mandolin would add a nice touch to
what I have been recording. Here's what I'm looking for, both in price
and application:

- Mid-range model - $500 - $1000

Within this price range, you have both import models and a few domestic-made models to choose from...

- Must have a quality tone - good tone is imperative

I understand...however this can also be subjective...in that, you might want to determine exactly what type of good tone you're looking for:
1. Warmth
2. Brightness
3. Volume
4. Resonance
5. Bass Response
6. Clarity with Clear Highs

Not any one mandolin can provide all of the above...there will be a compromise between tonal characteristics.

- Ornamentation is not that important - a stripped down model
that sounds better than a fancy model and is in the same price
range would be my choice.
- The mandolin will be used for texture, chording and fill work,
rarely featured as the lead instrument.

I personally, would like to see you get into one of the following:
Weber Hyalite - Breedlove Quartz OF - Rigel Natural

- It would be used in a folk/rock style - R.E.M., Mark Heard, Led
Zeppelin acoustic music, etc.

Sounds like versatility is a first priority...

- Would not be used for bluegrass picking
- I would like a pickup installed for live work

This is not a problem...however, it does bring up the price about 150.00.

- Would an octave mandolin/zook be an alternative - I've seen Bob
Dylan's band use them live and have also heard them in ethnic
music (Greek, etc.) and also Celtic music. Considering the musical
styles I listed (above), would the larger Mando/Zook fit in
that voice range?

I believe stepping up to an Octave or Zook would really fine...however, I still look at these as second instruments to the mandolin. Start with mandolin, and once you become familiar with mandolin, step up to an Octave and you'll find that many more voicings to fall back on for studio work.

Please write if you have further questions..Mickey


I appreciate any advise you can give me. I will be making a purchase by
the end of this month and plan to purchase an instrument from you.

Regards,

Steve Hackett
skhackett@juno.com

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Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 00:51:02 -0600
Subject: Re: M Monroe and Kent. Mandolins


The mandolin video samplers are great. As I'm looking to buy my first
mandolin (I play guitar) I was checking out the info and videos of the
Kentucky and M Monroe A-styles.

I really like the sound of the Monroe MMA-1, though I realize it's
discontinued. Would the MMA-2 have pretty much the same tone?

And how would the Kentucky 250 compare tone-wise to the MMA-2?

I realize the Kentucky 300 series are F styles in an A body, and that the
tone would be different then a regular A style, but I wasn't impressed by
their tone on the videos -- sounded kind of tinny to me. Are the Kentucky's
still a good buy for the money since the move to China?

Thanks for putting the Johnson 120 on video, I liked it's sound as well. The
tune on video sampler 4 is great...what's it called? Mickey write it?

Thanks for your help,

Pat Driscoll

Greetings Pat,

I'd be glad to personally assist you: The MMA-2 has a solid top...instead of the laminate top offered on the MMA-1...I believe you'll find that the MMA-2 is really a better value...and, it also comes with a truss rod; whereas, the MMA-1 did not have a truss rod (I believe that was the main reason it was discontinued)....

The tonal quality should be every bit as good on the MMA-2, if not better. The real advantage to having a solid top, is that it becomes more seasoned in tone over time...and gains a mellowness that a laminate top foregoes. A laminate top mandolin sounds the same new, usually, as it will when it gains age.

The Kentucky KM-250S would offer a different tone...not necessarily a better tone...it does have solid woods throughout and tone bar bracing...there would be an "opening up" allowance for the solid maple back and sides on the 250...even so, both are A-style mandolins with solid spruce tops. Hence, the sound would be difficult to differentiate to those who haven't played for many years. Tonal quality can also be influenced by other factors...such as: the type of strings, the set-up, the choice of pick, etc.

Yes, the Kentucky models are a great value...they've dropped substantially in price after the move to China. Albeit, they're constructed with a different finish and woods...notwithstanding, for the price, they're a tremendous value.

And, the MA-120 is very impressive for the price...as you yourself can attest to...

Video Sampler #4: Yes, I did write this piece in honor of our local history: "The Lincoln County Wars"...the piece is titled: "Lincolin County Regulator"...on my video: "Intro to the Mandolin", this piece is played as part of a music video introduction. There are many scenes portrayed of Lincoln, where Billy the Kid escaped, during this music video...

Hope something here has helped you, Keep on Pickin', Mickey

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Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 14:48:37 -0500

Greetings!

Glad to assist if I can...sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner. I'm enveloped in learning the DVD Conversion language...


Mickey,

Thank you for your wonderful website. After having done alot of searching it really is one of the
best resources out there for someone looking to take up the mandolin. You should feel proud of the
resource you're providing acoustic music. To provide a little bit more background, I'm a student
who's married and expecting his first baby in a few months, which is all to say that price is the
main concern in any mandolin I might buy. Additionally, what attracted me to the mando was its
versatility, since I want to be able to play with friends whose styles range from blues to
rockabilly.

Thanks so much for the kind words! Yes, I can understand your budgeting circumstances...something to keep in mind is our 100% trade-up policy...this will allow you to upgrade at a later date and still retain your initial investment.

And so, I had a couple of questions for you....

1) The mandolin for a lapsed violin player.
I would be extremely grateful for any advice you could give a former violin player who's
seriously considering taking up the mandolin. I played the violin for eight years (3rd grade
through high-school) and was actually starting to sound decent by the time I graduated. I'm hoping
that some of my left hand technique will transfer, though I'm not sure how those fret things work.
Are there any qualities I should particularly look for in a mandolin that will make the transition
seem more natural? Any special "set up" points that I should consider? Any exercises that you know
of for violin players to get used to a mandolin?

I'm currently a student of the violin...and am aware of the transition from mandolin to violin...which allows me a better perspective for those who are "transitioning" from violin to mandolin. Your left-hand facility for violin will certainly transfer quickly. You even have more latitude on the mandolin for error. With your violin discipline, you'll even have the edge over other mandolinists who do not share your same background.

Qualities I'd look for: resonance, openness of tone, craftsmanship, and playability.

Now, some of these qualities would be dependent on what style of music you hope to pursue. For instance, if you're playing by yourself quite a bit, you'll want to consider a more open sounding mandolin. If you're playing in a bluegrass ensemble, you'll want to consider an F soundhole model for better projection.

Set-Up Points: We have a 9-point checklist, signed by one of our luthiers, that's included with every mando shipped. This includes a full set-up and inspection. Coming from a violin world, I'd suggest that you have your mandolin set up with the lowest action possible. This will give you a closer feel to the violin; you'll still need to build up the strength necessary to play mandolin. Violin has a softer touch...


2) Equipment advice.
I was wondering if you might be able to give me a comparison contrast between two of your
entry level mandolins. I'm looking particularly at the Johnson MA-120N and the Kentucky 150s. The
two seem similar in many regards, but the Johnson seems to offer a few features the Kentucky doesn't
(e.g.. 14 frets instead of 12, and I like the natural finish more than the sunburst).

Both of these mandos are fine student models. I do like the extended 14-fret neck...if you like the natural finish, you should consider the MA-120N...and, again, keep in mind, you'll still have your 100% trade-up value when you're ready to upgrade at a later date.

Yet the Kentucky is more expensive. Is there a quality difference between the two that accounts for the
price difference? Which of the 2 would you recommend? Are there other mandos that you might
recommend I consider give my style and price needs?

I'm not sure why the Kentucky is more expensive...Kentucky does have a longer tradition in making mandos. They're both comparable in quality.

You might also consider the Morgan Monroe line...these are very nicely crafted. I believe you'd really like the MMA-2.

Hope this helps...Mickey

Thanks for your time and attention. Ben Stansberry

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Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 10:11:52 -0700

Greetings Steve,

Glad to assist if I can:

Bluegrass and Old Time guitarist seeks mandolin for hobby and spicing up home recordings. 3 days ago I knew squat about mandolins. After countless hours on the internet I now know next to nothing so I'm making progress. Here's what I'm after:

1) Type A or F with F holes

For recording and versatility in tonal range, I highly recommend the F soundhole...at a later date, and for specialized applications, you can always acquire an oval soundhole mando later as a second...if you're purchasing only one mando now, and you do not plan to pursue Celtic music solely, I'd recommend the F soundhole models...

You may choose between an A or an F model body style...both can offer great features and tonal range...depending on the model...


2) Widest nut possible on a standard mando - 1 3/16?

Breedlove Alpine Nut Width: 1 3/16" Breedlove Width from G string outside to E string outside on bridge: 1 9/16"

Gibson F-5L Fern Nut Width: 1 1/4" Gibson Width from G string outside to E string outside on bridge: 1 9/16"

Rigel A+ Deluxe Nut Width: 1 3/16" Rigel Bridge Width from G string outside to E string outside on bridge: 1 7/16" Weber

Absaroka Nut Width: 1 1/4" Weber Bridge Width from G string outside to E string outside on bridge: 1 7/16"


3) All solid wood, sitka x maple

You can opt for either mahogany or maple back and sides...most all standard mandos are made with the spruce top...the mahogany will give you more warmth; the maple more brightness and projection...


4) new or used

If possible, buy new...here's why:
1. You'll have a factory warranty...
2. You won't have to concern yourself about having a fret job done directly after the purchase...
3. Less worry about purchasing a mando with structural flaws...if you're not aware of what to look for, you may find problems with a used instrument even long after the initial purchase...so, if you do buy used, make sure it comes with a warranty...all used instruments sold through FOTW come with a lifetime warranty against manufacturer's defects...we also offer an optional extended warranty PRP that covers everything including damage by negligence...
4. And best of all, it will be solely up to you to take care of your instrument from day one...


5) price up to $1,500 tops

There are many choices available...for a 1/4", and staying under the 1500.00, you might consider the Weber Bitterroot or Absaroka...


6) could a bluegrass mando be custom ordered in this price range with an 1 1/4" nut as found on the Mid Mo "W" ?

At this price range, I'd have to recommend the following features:
A-Style Body (my main axe happens to be a Breedlove Alpine A-Style)
F Soundholes
Maple Back and Sides
Tone Bar Bracing (has set the standard for Bluegrass settings)
Archtop Body
As a second, with 1/4-inch...and to ensure you have a wide array of recording colors, I'd recommend the Mid-Mo...

Hope this helps...Mickey

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